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View Full Version : built aod or faceplated tko



sprayed347
02-01-2007, 04:50 AM
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this maybe a stupid question but wich is going to be faster i know wich is more concistant,but i also need something thats going to lastat 7500 rpms,my current setup is a 347,vic jrheads n-91 vic50 int,75mmtb ,pms,afm 4in pp,11.1 comp,nx150 wet shot,4.56s 28 10.5 et drags.ssupper and lower control arms 8pt cage,moroso rear drag springs,90/10 up front,ce adj rear shocks,car 60ft 1.59-1.62 with a stock motor and 150 shot,hoping new combo will hit high tens on motor,but dont know if aod will let it i think iam going to sell the aod but just wanted some other opinions.

silver347
02-01-2007, 08:28 AM
high 10's on motor shouldnt be a problem. I have ran 10.7's with a 347, 93 octane, drag radials and 3.73 gear. C4 tranny. is this a street/strip car? or strip only? I vote for AOD, but maybe 4.10 gear... possibly 4.30 at most if it is gonna be street driven. let me know if u wanna know more about MY combo. it is pretty simple.

Jeff88coupe
02-01-2007, 10:16 AM
Well..I sorta ran both of these setups behind my nitrous 347 using 4.56's and 28x10.5's.
I ran a regular 3550 tremec w/ Spec stage 3 clutch
Ran a 10.84 at 124 w/ 1.48 60' n/a
Ran a 10.42 at 132 on a 125 shot...but car was very violent on launch and shifts..didn't know which way it was going to go after each shift. That was more in the suspension that anything...was using a 12 sec suspension..going mid 10's:eek: I ended up hurting the 3550 by missing a few gears while powershifting it. I fixed the 3550 and traded the whole tranny seutp for a complete lentech AOD setup w/ brake. I got a 4200 stall nonlockup Edge Racing converter for it. This was a compromise between n/a and nitrous use. It should have been tighter for nitrous use..looser for just n/a use.
N/A is only went 11.2's at 118 w/ 1.49 60', On a 150 shot it went a 10.21 at 130 w/ 1.41 60'. The automatic calmed the car down dramaticly...car was almost boring to drive down the track (well not really...but not near as scary). I tried a 200 shot a few passes..but it just blew threw the converter...motor was on the shift light or higher the whole pass.
I have since switched to a built C4...hope to get the first passes on the car in 3 years by early summer. I'm looking for high 9's on a 150-200 shot.

kennebellcobra
02-01-2007, 12:10 PM
Sticks are fun but making it work is a pain i've been through 3 clutch set ups and still am not sure about this one. I sometimes think I should switch but they are just to much fun on the street plus I think it's more impressive if you can do it with a stick.

sprayed347
02-01-2007, 07:59 PM
jeff what was your combo when you ran those times with the aod,silver347 this is primarily a strip only car but iam sure it will see some street time but not alot.thanks for the info guys keep it coming.

silver347
02-01-2007, 08:05 PM
suspension, and if u use an auto ... the convertor ... Two very important key factors. I picked up over 1/2 second when we changed my convertor and rear suspension.

sprayed347
02-01-2007, 10:04 PM
what type of setup are you using silver,who did your converter.

silver347
02-02-2007, 12:34 AM
UPR front coilover kit with tubular k-member. UPR rear with anti-roll bar. Convertor was built for the car by Greg Slack in NC. Called him with weight of vehicle, horsepower, shift rpm and he built me a pretty nast convertor. It will be okay for 100shot of nitrous, but i wanted it geared more toward all motor. It will footbrake 3000rpm if u REALLY stand on the brakes. I only footbrake it to 2200rpm and it flashes 4800rpm. shift at 6200.

347 (stock block)
vic jr carb intake
barry grant 650 speed demon carb
afr165 heads, ported a little, larger 2.02 valves.
1 3/4 longtubes, x-pipe (2.5inch) and bullet mufflers
solid flat tappet cam (.580 lift) duration???
c4, reverse manual
3.73 gear
UPR suspension
holley blue fuel pump (6psi)
MSD
33degrees total timing
elec fan, elec water pump
full interior, no a/c, no p/steering. Still has power brakes, windows, locks, and heater
275-50-15 MT drag radials
93 octane

i just bracket race around here, but i wanted to be in the 6's in the 1/8 mile. The car has definitely surprised me. With no transbrake. Pullin 1.45 60 foot times.

Dirtyd0g
02-02-2007, 02:21 AM
That has to be an 8 inch converter. I have never seen an 8 inch converter for an aod. Not saying it couldn't be done but I have never seen one, and I have seen ALOT of converters after having built a little over 10,000. I build aod's from time to time and I am not a huge fan of them. A buddy of mine has a c4 core he wants to sell if you want it. For a race only car I would go c4 or powerglide. For a street car I would use the aod or get serious and use a 4r70w. If you do an aod it will be expensive you want a lentech valvebody, nothing else compares. The input shaft needs pitched in the trash and replaced with a 1 piece. Pack the trans full of dynax frictions wherever you can and cross breed it with a 4r70w or an aode to get that wide od band and the intermediate diode.
Alan

Timido
02-02-2007, 01:38 PM
My powerglide works great. It is now a 1.8 straight cut it had many years of severe abuse before I hurt it

sprayed347
02-02-2007, 09:17 PM
dirtydog,i build transmissions also and i built my aod just as you described 1 piece input shaft,stamped steel drum,4r70 gear train,mechanical 1 way diode,i used alto clutchs though,2in band,welded sunshell,art carr manual valve body with a brake,all new roller bearings,only thing original is case and front pump.my problem is my converter,didnt have the cash to buy one to fit,so i had a local converter shop modify my pi converter,it fits in the trans fine,it is all the way seated in the pump, but i have no clearence once trans is bolted up,i think it has the wrong front cover on it when it was a pi front cover it fit fine.i have had this thing checked by them twice, and tryed to install it atleast 4-5 times,binds everytime.

Jeff88coupe
02-02-2007, 10:13 PM
jeff what was your combo when you ran those times with the aod,silver347 this is primarily a strip only car but iam sure it will see some street time but not alot.thanks for the info guys keep it coming.

Combo was the same as when I had the 5sp in the car for the most part.
-R block 347 w/ eagle forged crank and rods,ross flat tops (~10.8:1)
-ported AFR 185's w/ 1.6 rockers, custom street solid roller cam (basically a comp xr286r on a 108 lobe sep)
-TFS R intake with ported lower
-NX tfs-r efi plate kit
-75mm tb,80mm mas, AMS 4" powe pipe in fender
-1 3/4" hooker s/c lt's, 3" off road dr. gas x-pipe, 3" mac produmps
-built aod w/ 1 piece input shaft/lentech street/strip vb w/ trans brake, Edge 4200 nonlockup converter..think it was 9 1/2"
-fms alum d/s, 4.56's, spool, 31 spline axles
-normal drag suspension..125lb front coil over springs w/ adj. avo drag struts, full tubular k-member & a arms, rear eibach drag springs with air bag in right rear, qa1 adj. rear drag shocks.
-big and little centerline warriors with 28x10.5's

Dirtyd0g
02-03-2007, 01:23 AM
The biggest benefit of going to a 31 spline setup is that you can use a front cover intended for a c4 application. The aod's had the direct drive damper so the cover was incredibly thin. I'd say either the stack height is too tall or there isn't enough clearance for the shaft. Lay the converter on a good flat surface and verify that it is not more than 6 inches tall.Measure from one of the pads the studs or bolts go into with it sitting straight up on the hub. It's best to take an average of all of them to determine actual stack height but there is alot of room to spare if it is off it will be off quite a bit. I recently did one that I read the caliper wrong and had that problem. Luckily it was one I installed ehre so I got it fixed within an hour.
Alan

sprayed347
02-03-2007, 02:45 AM
dirtydog,thanks for the advise,i will measure that as soon as it gets above 10 degrees here,lol,who can i send it to thats gonna fix it right,art carr wants $150.00 just to cut it open +parts to fix it,i cant see dropping possibly another$300.00 into this thing by the time i ship it there and back plus parts.

Dirtyd0g
02-03-2007, 04:17 AM
Where are you located. If it's a simple cut open, trim down and reweld,balance,leak test it you're looking at about 2 hours of labor. I would have to open it up to be sure of what you are looking at. If you are local bring it up I'll fix it while you wait. I am strange in that I don't mind doing my work in front of people. Converters are the devices few people can work on so everybody wants to see what is in them, etc...
Alan

Timido
02-03-2007, 11:15 PM
Where are you located. If it's a simple cut open, trim down and reweld,balance,leak test it you're looking at about 2 hours of labor. I would have to open it up to be sure of what you are looking at. If you are local bring it up I'll fix it while you wait. I am strange in that I don't mind doing my work in front of people. Converters are the devices few people can work on so everybody wants to see what is in them, etc...
Alan

Thats what I am doing I talked to Alan last week it sounds like he has the tools and the know how with the converters. I am planing on going out some time next week with my converter.