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View Full Version : Dynamat Install, NVH Reduction.



IWRBB
05-05-2007, 08:53 AM
I posted pics here (http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2003-2004-mustang-cobra/gutted-the-interior-pictures-at-11-a-79836.html) of the interior stripped in preparation for installing various materials for reducing NHV (noise, vibration, harshness)and heat.

The materials I chose were:
Dynamat Extreme (used 18 sheets, 80 S.F. Pack=9 sheets per box)
Second Skin Damplifier Pro (used 5 sheets, 80 S.F. Pack= 9 sheets per box)
Dynaliner 1/8" Foam (used 4 - 12 S.F. sheets, 1 per box)
Dynaliner 1/4" Foam (used 4 - 12 S.F. sheets, 1 per box)
Dynaliner 1/2" Foam (used 4 - 12 S.F. sheets, 1 per box)

This did cost a lot of money. The foam is an easily over $400 total, the Dynamat is over $100 per 80 S.F box. I have about $400 in that as well. You could use fewer materials as I explain below, and probably cut your cost in half.

I purchased the materials from CarDomain.com, it was on sale and they had free shipping. It's jsut as chap as the guy selling it on Ebay once you consider shipping. It was all shipped fast, I was very satisfied with them. I bought the Second Skin product from their website directly. It also shipped fast.

Dynamat Extreme and Second Skin Damplifier Pro are both 100% butyl with a aluminum backing. These products are designed for vibration dampening. They provide some sound control and a bit of a thermal barrier due to the foil, but not much. The SS Pro product is significantly cheaper than the Dynamat Extreme. The only issue I had with the SS is that the butyl material does not go all the way to the edge of the foil. There is about a 1/4" edge of just foil. I preferred the Dynamat having the butyl all the way to the edge. Other than that complaint, which is minor, I'd definitely recommend the SS product as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat.

Installing the Dynamat is very, very time consuming and requires a lot of physical effort. Installing it correctly involves rolling the material onto the metal with a wooden roller. I found the heavy duty 1" wooden wallpaper seam roller from Lowe’s worked the best. It's small, but the smaller size allows you to get more psi on the material with less force on the roller. Rubber rollers "give" too much to be useful. I also used a cheap plastic putty knife and a wallpaper spreader. The putty knife was good for pressing down edges where the roller couldn't get to. The spreader was good for laying down large sheets on flat surfaces without trapping air. Trapped air means it's not touching the metal. You need to work the Dynamat from one side to the other to get the air out. If some air gets trapped, just pop it with a razor and roll out the air towards the hole. I chose to cover most of the metal surfaces inside the car. The doors and the entire floor pan are pretty much covered 100%. To save weight, you could only do the large flat areas that are more likely to resonate. Although, at that point you are guessing at to what might be vibrating and you could miss some areas. No matter which way you choose to apply it, anything that gets installed is better than stock. As far as weight goes, each 80 S.F pack weighs 20 lbs. You will have about 3/4lb to 1lb per box as waste.

Dynaliner is a lightweight closed cell foam with a self adhesive backing. It's designed to control heat and sound, not vibration. Since it's closed cell foam, it's oil resistant and will not absorb water and humidity. Dynaliner sticks best to the foil of the Dynamat, but it will stick to cleaned painted surfaces just fine. The 1/2" foam is tough to work with in large sheets. Large sheets of the 1/2" material are best left to flat surfaces. Smaller pieces of the 1/2" foam can be used in irregular areas with some patience. The 1/4" foam is a good balance of thickness while still conforming to curves. The 1/8" foam can be used nearly anywhere, although it's not going to be that effective, it's pretty thin. I mostly used 1/8" foam to seal up the gaps where the larger materials met and provide a uniform surface. You can see an excellent example of this in the pictures showing the wheel wells getting the Dynaliner installed.

Installing the Dynaliner was much easier than the Dynamat. It still takes a lot of time though. You get a nice soft surface to sit on as you get it installed, which is a bonus. I'm very satisfied with this product. It's light, and it works great. It cuts down on the noise and heat just as advertised. For those who are really concerned with weight, but still want to reduce noise and heat, using just this material may be a good option. However, you will not see a large reduction in vibrations and resonance using the Dynaliner by itself. All the rolls are the same size- the 1/2" rolls weighed in at 2.2 lbs per sheet. The 1/4" is 1.1lbs per sheet, and the 1/8" is only 0.7 lbs per sheet. I used 4 sheets of each. I used double layers of ½” foam under the rear seat and in the trunk; you can get by with one layer if you want to save money. The ½” foam is the most expensive version of the Dynaliner.

Ok enough talk, how about some install pictures? Let's start with the doors.

I pulled the speakers, speaker cages and the factory weather liner. I removed the liner carefully and re-used it, as you'll see in the pics. I drilled the center of the 2 factory rivets on the speaker cages, and then used a chisel to cut through the remaining rivet material. The speakers weren't all that secure from the factory. They were tight, but I could still wiggle them. I remounted them more securely with nuts and bolts. The bottom of the bracket is a wedge fit, I stuck some Dynaliner in there to tighten that up as well.

This picture is looking inside the bare door. You can see the black factory dampening strip above the strip of Dynamat I added. I was very careful to gently roll this piece on since it's on the inside of the outer door skin.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0205.jpg

1/4" Dynaliner, about to go in the door. You roll/fold it up, put it through the opening, then spread it out. It goes from the upper body line down to the side impact bar. It pretty much covers the entire panel from front to back as well.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0206.jpg

Dynaliner installed inside door. Remember, it's closed cell foam so it does not absorb water or humidity.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0208.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0207.jpg

Dynamat installed on driver’s side. Note the window brackets. Obviously, don't cover the side where the roller goes. I left the passenger door panel installed as a guide to make sure I kept the edges of the Dynamat under the door panel. I pulled all the wires loose I could. The door handle cable easily unclips.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0213.jpg

Here you can barely see the top edge of more 1/4" Dynaliner that was installed in both doors below the impact bar. I stopped it about an inch short of the door bottom to keep it away from the drains.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0211.jpg

Dynamat installed on passenger door.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0227.jpg


Factory liner plus a piece of 1/4" Dyanliner to cover the large hole in the door. I used some general purpose 3M spray adhesive on the door and the liner/foam.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0224.jpg


It sealed up really well, better than factory probably.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0225.jpg

Finished door, minus the door pins. The door panel fit was a bit tough but it went on, no problem. It's very solid now. The doors shut with a solid thud as expected. The power window/motors are nearly silent. You mostly hear the glass moving across the seal.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0228.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 08:57 AM
Those doors sure were fun, how about the rest of the inside?
First piece besides the doors.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0234.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0235.jpg


Underside of the speaker tray
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0239.jpg


Dynamat going on the C-pillar. I sealed over the large hole on the right eventually. I took out the rear seatbelts, but marked the mounts in case someone wants to put them back.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0249.jpg


This is a hole that is open to the scoops on the side of the car. It has a thin plastic piece on it from the factory that was loose in some spots. I pulled it off, did the 3M adhesive and re-stuck it. Then I put the Dynamat over it.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0250.jpg


The passenger side, you can see the outline of the opening easily here.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0251.jpg


Starting on the Dynamat on under the rear seat. On face of the rear bulkhead, you can see the Dynamat only on the right, and 1/4" Dynaliner over it on the left.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0254.jpg


Passenger foot well. I used vice grips to hold the carpet up to the glove box frame. I put Dynamat as far as I could reach under the carpet. See the bump where the Dynaliner logo meets the Dynamat? That is where a catalytic converter sits on the other side of the metal.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0256.jpg


First layer on the floor, 1/4" Dynaliner. It continues about 8" up on the firewall past what's visible. By the way, that's a piece of 1/4" Dynaliner on the back of the factory liner.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0258.jpg


Close-up on how it's wrapped over the shifter.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0259.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 08:59 AM
Added a large piece of 1/2" Dynaliner in the middle of the floor and sealed the factory piece down tight with another piece of 1/4" Dynaliner.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0261.jpg


Beginning the Dynamat on the passenger seat area.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0270.jpg


Kind of a dark pic, but this is the 1/2" foam going in on the passenger side. The tunnel and the rocker panel Dynamat is finished.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0273.jpg


I didn't get pics of the Dynamat going in on the driver's floor pan, but this is a pic of the Dynaliner installed on the top. 1/2" foam under the seat, 1/4" fooam under the foot area. You can see the 1/8" foam on the passenger side rocker panel as well. The roller I prefer is the wooden one in the pic.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0280.jpg


Finished Dynamat on the rear floor.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0283.jpg


Some pics of the mostly completed front seat area. I covered any gaps in the foam with 1/8" Dynaliner before the carpet went back in. You can see the result of that in the pics. In the first few pics you can see some gaps, in the 4th pic you can see how I sealed up the driver's side with the 1/8" Dynaliner and there are no gaps.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0285.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0287.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0288.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0292.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0293.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 09:00 AM
More Dynamat in the trunk area, around the latch, down to the floor.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0298.jpg

Trunk nearly done.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0299.jpg


Driver's side, the panel above the wheel well is done, nothing on the wheel well yet.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0301.jpg


Passenger side wheel well area mostly finished with the Dynamat.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0302.jpg


Front of driver's wheel well done.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0305.jpg


At this point I put the carpet and console back in. I did pull the crappy stock insulation off the carpet in the foot area are to make it fit better. Here's what the shifter area looked like at that point, one layer of 1/4" foam. Note the amount of the rubber boot visible as you go.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0310.jpg


Begin a second layer, 1/2" foam this time.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0316.jpg

Finished second layer of 1/2" foam.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0318.jpg


Begin third layer, more 1/2" foam. I didn't get a clear pic of this layer finished, but you get the idea.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0323.jpg


Everything reinstalled. Those wires hanging down are 2 extra "pull wires" going through the grommet for any future wires I need to run through the firewall. I just tuck them up under the dash. If I use one, I pull the wire I need plus an extra so there's always a pull wire for next time.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0327.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 09:01 AM
First layer of 1/2" Dynaliner installed under the rear seat. If you still have you back seat, you can't do this and don't really need to do this step. The seat bottom won't fit back in place if you do. I have the rear seat deleted. The seat delete sits on the part in the middle where it's still bare Dynamat. I only put the 1/8" Dynaliner there so it'll still sit level.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0329.jpg


First 1/2" layer, passenger side. Note the height of the gold and silver seat mounting studs.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0331.jpg


1/4" Dyanliner on the vertical part of the bulkhead, not much noise or heat from that area.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0332.jpg


Second layer of 1/2" Dynaliner under the rear seat, note the height of the seat mounting stud versus the 2nd picture above this one.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0334.jpg


Second layer of 1/2" Dynaliner on the driver's side.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0335.jpg


Bad lighting, but you can see the first layer of 1/2" Dynaliner installed on the trunk floor. What you see is the size of one full piece with the spare tire area cut out.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0340.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0347.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0348.jpg


First layer of 1/2" foam in the spare tire wheel.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0350.jpg


Beginning the 1/4" Dynaliner installation on the driver's wheel well.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0352.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 09:02 AM
Finished drivers wheel well, mostly 1/4" foam with strips of 1/8" to seal any gaps.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0354.jpg


1/4" Dynaliner going in on the passenger side wheel well.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0366.jpg


More 1/4" Dyanliner on the wheel well.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0369.jpg


I used the last of the 1/4" Dynaliner to finish the gap between the rear seat area and the trunk. I didn't want 1/2" here because the rear panel of the seat delete sits against that. It may have bowed out, so I just used the 1/4" stuff.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0371.jpg


Front side of the passenger wheel well, finished. Still have some gaps to seal with 1/8" Dynaliner in the rear seat area.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0373.jpg


Rear of the passenger wheel well, finished.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0375.jpg


Rear of the driver's side wheel well, finished. 1/2" filled in under the BAP area.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0376.jpg

Last day, time to finish the trunk. These next few look similar, but they are all different. here's another shot of the above pic, still the first layer of 1/2" lots of gaps.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0377.jpg

Covered the gaps with 1/8" Dynaliner.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0379.jpg

Second layer of 1/2" Dyanliner on the floor and in the spare tire well.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0383.jpg

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 09:02 AM
Seal the edges with 1/8" Dyanliner. Done with the trunk.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0384.jpg

Closeup view of the trunk floor finished.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0385.jpg

Finished trunk. Yes, I skipped the panel by the fuel pump reset switch.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0386.jpg

View from other side.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0387.jpg

Finish the rear seat area with 1/8" Dynaliner. Compare to pic above.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0388.jpg

One last piece of 1/8" Dynaliner on the seat delete bottom.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0389.jpg

Rear interior re-installed. That web looking streak is only in the picture. I'm Not sure what happened with that picture.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w222/reckless-2003/DSCF0390.jpg

The rear seat delete was a tight fit, but it went just fine. I did re-use the factory material behind each of the factory lower rear quarters, leaving it out would have made it fit easier.



There were a few other things I did beside the Dynaliner and the Dynamat. I filled the B-pillars and the box running across the floor with 3M Duramix Pillar Foam. This stuff was not cheap either, but it works pretty damn well. I was able to completely fill the B-pillars. I probably wouldn't recommend trying this yourself unless you have the 3M twin dispenser already. It does work well though.

Here's a picture of the pillar finished, you can see the foam in the holes. One of the holes is a mount for the panel, I just pushed a screwdriver in there to give it room.
http://www.reckless-op.com/media/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0157.JPG

I also used 3M duramix 4147 Super Fast adhesive to make the rear seatback panel more solid. "Duramix 4147 has excellent wide gap filling capabilities and withstands a wide range of temperatures. Will not run or sag." This stuff is just awesome. It looks like soft silicone caulk in the pics, but it's rock hard. It stays exactly where you put it and dries in less than 20 seconds.

It's tough to see the adhesive in some of the pics, you have to look close. I "shot" it under the seams like you would with caulk, then laid it in thick on the back side where the panel meets the floor pan. It looks like its just sitting there on the seam, but it's all the way the through seam, filling any gaps in the metal. BTW, this is the panel that lots of guys get a pop noise from when going over curbs. A grinder and welder would have worked just as well, but this is way easier and I don't have to worry about ruining the headliner with sparks. There are six places where this panel meets the car. Down under the rear seat, at the wheel wheel, and the upper corner- both sides. I filled all six seams with the stuff.

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 09:03 AM
Pics from the front and rear of the panel after the 4147:
http://www.reckless-op.com/media/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0158.JPG

http://www.reckless-op.com/media/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0159.JPG

http://www.reckless-op.com/media/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0160.JPG

That's pretty much it. The toughest panels to reinstall were the trunk liners, since I added an 1" of foam to the floor. All the stuff up front went back in pretty easily.

The reuslts are exactly what you'd expect. It's hard to describe. The car is still loud, it's on the outside now though. I'm glad I did it. I don't know if I'd do it agian though, it's a lot of work

02mingryGT
05-05-2007, 10:23 AM
Nice job. Looks like you really did it the right way. You need to do your doors though since the majority of the noise you hear is coming through them. My car is completely Dynamat'ed as well. The only exception is I used Dynapad on the floorboard. Well I also shot Dynaspray into the rear spoiler.

Email your pics to psonoda@dynamat.com or a link to this page. He'd probably be interested in seeing it. Nice work and great guide. :bigthumb

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 10:33 AM
Yea, it's one of those things, there's no point in doing it half ass.

Doing the doors did help a lot with wind and road noise, but my exhaust is LOUD. It was the main thing I was fighting. I still want a loud exhaust on the car, but I didn't want to feel like I was inside the muffler.

I do have the Extremeliner stuff I didn't even put in yet. It's even better than the Dynapad. I really don't need it though. I'll probably throw it under the rear seat delete and under the rear carpet to further kill the exhaust drone.

PonymanfiveO
05-05-2007, 10:43 AM
wow.

I wonder how much your car weighs now?

IWRBB
05-05-2007, 11:05 AM
Still less than a stock Cobra, probably about 3550 lbs. With a rear seat delete, no jack or spare, and Corbeau front seats, I saved 110 lbs. I also have BBS RKs which are way lighter than the stock wheels. All the materials I added were only around 60 lbs.

Mr.Moontang
05-05-2007, 11:28 AM
Looks good, I know thats a lot of hard work I did a Prelude in Dynomat back in the day when I was doing car audio competition.

Mista Bone
05-05-2007, 12:05 PM
Yep, matting is alot of work.......

or you could be like "Dick" Clark and fill the doors of your Buick Grand National with clay :)

02mingryGT
05-05-2007, 01:23 PM
Yea, it's one of those things, there's no point in doing it half ass.

Doing the doors did help a lot with wind and road noise, but my exhaust is LOUD. It was the main thing I was fighting. I still want a loud exhaust on the car, but I didn't want to feel like I was inside the muffler.

I do have the Extremeliner stuff I didn't even put in yet. It's even better than the Dynapad. I really don't need it though. I'll probably throw it under the rear seat delete and under the rear carpet to further kill the exhaust drone.

Extremeliner is mainly for heat which is why it has the lead barrier. Dynapad is actually better for sound. Dynapad is the home padding they give you to go under your carpet in your house. It weighs about a pound a sq ft.

I used to work there. ;) If things would have worked out instead of you cutting all those pieces by hand they would have been custom cut so all you would have to do is remove the backing and attach it. But it didn't so there you go. (EDIT: I actually still have the CAD files for a 99-04 Mustang)

Made the stereo sound way better as well I bet. i dynasprayed that box that the rear deck speakers fit into as well. Anyway looks kick ass.

LXEnvy1990
05-05-2007, 04:18 PM
wow good fuk'n job! Looks great!:bigthumb

ponyboystroker
05-15-2007, 04:53 PM
Man, you put a lot of work into the car and also into the detailed post. :bigthumb Your post will come in handy for someone wanting to do their car.

I would like to go for a ride in your car sometime to see how quiet it is. Then we come jump into mine (stock insulation) right after if you wanted for a comparison; I also have a pretty loud exhaust.

Good Job :coo1:

IWRBB
05-16-2007, 05:30 PM
If you bring yours over to do the paint, we can take it for a spin.

ponyboystroker
05-16-2007, 05:40 PM
If you bring yours over to do the paint, we can take it for a spin.

If you have time, I was thinking of bringing the car up sometime soon so that we could both look at and discuss the current paint situation. I would also like to check out your car too. I was also thinking about looking at some of the shifter knobs you have for sale.

IWRBB
05-16-2007, 06:11 PM
Sure, just let me know when. I might go to WFC 10 this weekend, probably on Sunday.