Upgrading cam retainer necessary when doing cam swap?

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm a little bit confused as to what is "required" when doing a cam swap in my car. I'm going with a custom grind from Ed Curtis. I purchased a new Rollmaster Billet Timing set off of ebay a while back for a really good price to go with the cam install, but now I'm seeing that there are two different options.

1) Rollmaster Billet Timing Set Nitrided w/ Roller Bearing(more expensive)

2) Rollmaster Billet Timing Set w/ Brass Thrust Spacer

I'm not exactly sure what the difference is between the two.

If I have the first timing set, do I need a modified Cam Retainer?

Will I need a Roller Bearing Cam Retaining Thrust Plate if I have the second timing set?

Thanks!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Also, will I be ok with using the stock lifters, or should I go with a new set like the $125 FRPP's? The cam is a hydraulic roller.

[JonS]

I can't answer on the timing chain, I've always avoided the type that require any special parts or procedures. The stock lifters will probably be just fine, the motorport lifters are just new stock lifters. If they didn't make noise previously they should work well for you.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I can't answer on the timing chain, I've always avoided the type that require any special parts or procedures. The stock lifters will probably be just fine, the motorport lifters are just new stock lifters. If they didn't make noise previously they should work well for you.

Are there any checks I can do to make sure they are ok? The engine is fresh with maybe 2,000 miles, but seeing some other overlooked details by the machine shop makes me want to double check and make sure that they used new rollers. If I can use something I already have, that would be awesome. I added up today how much its going to take to get the car where I want it to be next year, and I almost started crying. In fact I highly doubt I'll be done anytime soon.

[JonS]

Pretty much if they didn't make noise before they are OK. If it makes you feel better you can take them apart and clean them. There are only a few parts inside.. There isn't much inside of one to wear, they just get gummed up over time.

[kennebellcobra]

I remember having a bunch of issues to get the right rollmaster that would fit...rollmaster had the wrong information on what was what. I did save the box at work for the one that was right but it's at work and I'm not going back till Jan 2nd but I'll look when I get back.

I can tell you it is the best chain out there...I did run a ford racing and after a year I had it back apart and it already had a ton of slack in the chain. I checked the rollmaster after a year and no slack at all...I was very impressed.

[kennebellcobra]

I just called a guy at work to look and the right part # is cs-3060 no mods needed. The one they say 3040 efi does not fit.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I just called a guy at work to look and the right part # is cs-3060 no mods needed. The one they say 3040 efi does not fit.

I'll check at home, but I confirmed that I do have the right chain with Ed Curtis who recomended me the chain before I bought it. Its just that there were "extras" I could buy with the chain from Ed, and I'm just wondering if I actually need those.

[facemelter71]

I bought a timing set from cincy speed for mine when i did my cam swap about 4 months ago.My old one was really streched,i couldnt believe it.I left my stock lifters in there because i didnt take my intake off to swap out the cam so they stayed in.But if you take your intake off and your right there staring at your lifters,replace them.Its cheap insurance,but if they have only 2000 miles on them i think they wil be ok.Like i said i left mine in cuz i didnt take my intake but if you do and they look iffy,change them.Oh,and about 2 weeks ago one of my lifters took a dump and i ended up changing them anyway.