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Sparky
04-24-2008, 11:55 PM
I found a special hydraulic slave cylinder for tremecs that they use on factory five kit cars. I need one for the 5.0 Ranger. The problem is, I have a T5. So, my question is, what are the differences between clutch linkages between the two. For example, if I were to switch out a T5 for a Tremec what all would you need. I'm hoping to be able to buy this slave cylinder and modify my T5 bellhousing to use it, if I even have to. Here's what I'm looking at http://www.fortesparts.com/catalogDisplay.cfm?cat=127

Its the fourth item down. It looks the same to me except for the fork cover, and I'm sure the fork itself is different. But, I'm not beyond modifying mine to make it work. Especially when my only other option is a Mc Cleod hydralic throwout bearing for 350 bucks versus this one for 180.

NXcoupe
04-25-2008, 02:00 PM
Tremecs and T5's use the same throw out bearing and the retainer is essentially the same length, etc. I don't see a problem with using it on a T5 at all. Also, T5's are considered Tremec transmissions now anyway, since they make them.

Timido
04-25-2008, 04:56 PM
http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm That is what I am planning on running with a T-5 in the Vomet.

Sparky
04-25-2008, 06:54 PM
I wonder how close a comet's pedals are to a mustang of the same vintage? The reason I ask is because these guys have a kickass cable conversion for them. www.moderndriveline.com I'm still a little skeptical about the slave cylinder deal, I tried using a wilwood on mine. I had a hybrid slave/cable setup rigged up. I made a housing that simulated how the mustang cable attaches to the firewall and had the slave cylinder on the other end pulling the cable. The problem was, without the quadrant, the cable didn't get enough travel. So, I'm wondering if the slave cylinder itself would have enough pull. What pissed me off back then, was nobody could tell me how much travel the fork needed to operate the clutch properly, and how much actual pull the cylinder had. I had the cable adjusted so tight that there was actual pressure on the throwout bearing the whole time. Even then it would barely shift without raking the gears. I had it down though. There was a certain rpm range that I figured out for each gear to where it wouldn't grind, and I drove it for a couple months last year that way. Now, its time to fix all the half assin' I had to do lol.