Valvetrain questions, Input needed!

[Marker1989]

Hey guys, I've got a few questions on the next step of my build. To start off ill tell you what I've got. Its an 88gt, stock long block, track heat intake, exhaust, n a few other things to go along with all that (yes it is MAF, not SD). What I want to do next is pull the block, port the E7's, get upgraded valve springs, 1.7 rollers, and just do an overall refresh of the block. Now the questions, I'm also thinking about sticking a cam in it while its out of the car. I was thinking about a used f303 or something similar, and I just need to know how you guys think this combo will work. With an f-cam and the 1.7rr's the valve lift will be at .544. I'm mostly worried about piston/valve clearance issues, I've read up on it and the answer always seems to be that I will have to measure it myself because there is no concrete answer until i do. This is fine with me but I just thought I'd ask before I start pulling it apart and before I buy the cam. If I do have to notch the pistons what does that involve and how much would that cost me? Also, would I need new lifters and push rods if I did go with the cam? If so what length of push rods would you suggest? Any advice is appreciated, or if you have any suggestions about something I should change in the combo before I actually buy it all.
Thank, Mark

[fst 5pto]

I would pick up a set of gt40p's and use either a trick flow stage 1 cam or an e cam, both being similar.

[Blonde_5.0]

if your pullin the heads off you might as well buy some good heads.Some trick flows would be good.I just cant see doin all that work just to put some stock heads back on.Might as well spend some cash while your there.It would be worth it.

[Marker1989]

I have considered new heads, I would really like a set of trick flows.. But this is a budget rebuilt. Im just looking for a quick daily driver. Later down the road i have plans for a 331 with trick flow heads and some boost but im a fairly poor college student right now. I would throw down the cash for gt40s but the motor is not the only work I will be doing on the car this winter so unfortunatly i need $$ for other parts. I know there is limited potential with the E7's but I acually want to do the port work myself and I just wanna see where the E7s can take me. As for the cam I am not set on an F cam or even an alphabet cam for that matter, I am just looking for a used one for around or under $100. The question still stands though, would i need new lifters and pushrods if i got a new cam? again, any input is welcomed

[fst 5pto]

I would recommend spending the cash on new lifters and pushrods....

[Marker1989]

Yea, I figured I would end up doing that anyway. It wouldnt make much sense to refresh everything else and not those. With a new cam and 1.7's will I need a different length pushrod? I think im going to go with a slightly smaller cam than the F, I know with it i may or may not need to but I dont want to notch the pistons if I did run into clearance problems

p.s. what kinda of rwhp range do you think all this will put me at?

[mustangjon]

well unless you already have 1.7 rr, i would recommend getting the cam of your choice first then selecting the rockers it was built for, some are 1.6 ect, no need to throw off valvetrain geometry if you dont need to. If your going to self port heads and get to that point look at my build thread. Codename sleeper, has alot of pics of my home ported gt40's that turned out fantastic flow wise, and im very pleased. Basically flowed with out of box alum heads. I can point you to a few links too, just send me a pm when your there

[Marker1989]

Thanks man, thats alot of good advice. Im kinda swaying towards the tfs stage 1 cam, but i really want to find a used cam which may be a lil difficult. What rockers are recomended with that cam? What are some other good cams that are similar that I could try to find used?

[Rick93coupe]

Once you find the spec of cam your looking for, check out corral.net's classifieds, they have such a huge membership that you can find just about anything there.

[fst 5pto]

I had the trick flow stage 1 cam and loved it. I would go with 1.7's

[Marker1989]

Couldnt find a tfs cam but I found a lunati 51014, pretty sure im gonna buy it. Anybody have any expirience with this cam?

[facemelter71]

Pushrods will be the same.No need to spend the extra money.Unless you want new ones and want to spend the money.

[Marker1989]

Okay guys, I've got the valvetrain all figured out thanks to some input on here. I ended up ordering a Lunati 51014 and 1.7rr's, Ill be doing an upgraded valve spring kit and a 3 angle valve job as well as the port and polish of the E7's. I've come up with some other questions regarding the rebuild though. The heads are already off and the block will be on the stand soon, my original plans were to just freshen up the whole engine with new gaskets everywhere and new freeze plugs and put it back together with all the new parts. Now while its out should I just go ahead and do all the bearings and piston rings?? I don't want to if I dont need to so how would I got about making sure all the bearings and rings are fine. It ran flawlessly before so I think they're all still in good condition but how do I make sure?? I just dont want to put it all back together just to have to tear it down again soon. Keep in mind this motor will see some sort of power adder soon, most likely nitrous.

[facemelter71]

Trust me.And im sure every one will agree with me.Replace all your bearings,rod,crank.All of them.And while your there replace the oil pump also.And pull the pistons out and replace the rings to.Check the cylinder walls for bad scoring and check your crank for scoring also.If its bad,then have it turned and get the correct bearings for the underturned crank.If its good,just throw some regular sized bearing at it.Replace you rear main seal and timing cover seal.Use a good assembly lube ( TORCO ) and use ARP moly assembly lube for the fastener's so you get a good torque reading.Use a good torque wrench and tighten all fastener's to book specs.

[Marker1989]

I'll take your word for it.. but Im just wondering why you say that. I was going to replace all the gaskets, including the rear main seal. Do you recomend replacing all the bearings and piston rings just because it will probly see nitrous or just because its a good idea for every rebuild?? I was hoping to just port the heads and do the valvetrain, as much as Id like to tear it all apart I didnt want to have to replace all that

[facemelter71]

Its always a good idea to replace all those while your there instead of 5000 miles down the road your oil pump goes out.Mine did,and it sucks.Your right there with the engine out and on the stand.Might as well spend a little more for some cheap insurance.

[mustang8998]

If you replace the rings, (and you should) you will need to hone the cylinder bores. I would check them first, to make sure they are in spec, as well as the pistons. If the sizes are okay, just use a bead hone, to clean them up.

It's always a good idea, to check all sizes, as long as you are this far into it. It will save you time and money, in the long run.