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View Full Version : 2000 gt rod bearing bad??? Noise from front of motor.



1992MustangDW
11-06-2008, 09:55 PM
ok so my friend bought this 2000 gt. there is a noise from the front end. it doesnt do it all the time only if you rev it up pretty good, but still dosnt do it all the time, when you are taking off threw the gears seems like everytime you let off the gas you hear a noise..



I was told it could be a rod bearing, also told it could be a timing chain guide.

Can anyone weigh in so I can try to pinpoint this.


O YEAH THE MISS IS FIXED. thanks everyone.

1992MustangDW
11-06-2008, 11:00 PM
can you change the bearing with the motor still in the car?

Mavowar
11-07-2008, 03:18 AM
I would be willing to bet it is a timing chain issue.......
unless he beats the dog snot out of it....

bobtsgt
11-07-2008, 07:49 AM
how many miles?

1992MustangDW
11-07-2008, 10:32 AM
98,000 it doesnt even sound like a knock more like a chain smacking

91lxnos
11-07-2008, 10:49 AM
98,000 it doesnt even sound like a knock more like a chain smacking

Sounds like your answering your own question. Maybe if you pull the cam covers off you can see down into the front of the motor and see a worn sloppy chain and chain tensioner?

1992MustangDW
11-07-2008, 10:51 AM
well i was kinda just wondering if anyone else had this problem, with 98,000 im just going to pull the front cover off and replace the shit anyways.

bobtsgt
11-07-2008, 11:26 AM
I would pull the cover and inspect the chains and tensioners. If the tensioners are stuck and not taking up the slack the chains will be loose. Also inspect the guides for wear. Get a new seal for the crank and new cover gaskets too since your there.

NXcoupe
11-07-2008, 11:46 AM
O YEAH THE MISS IS FIXED. thanks everyone.

So what was the cause of the miss?

Timido
11-07-2008, 11:47 AM
I would pull the accessory belt first and then see if it makes the noise. I have heard belt tensioners and idler bearings make some crazy noises also.

02mingryGT
11-07-2008, 11:56 AM
well i was kinda just wondering if anyone else had this problem, with 98,000 im just going to pull the front cover off and replace the shit anyways.

The exact same noise is what I had when I spun the rod bearings on two and six. The tensioners are run on oil pressure, so not enough pressure and they go slack causing the rattling. My wouldn't do it until about 2400 rpms and then go away at about 3500. Also wouldn't do it at idle.

The best thing you can do is drop a little oil out of the car(about a quart) and run a magnet through it. Mine came out looking like it had silver paint in it. If your good there then I would do what Bob suggests.

My bearings looked like this:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/cjglancy/Mustang064-1.jpg

1992MustangDW
11-07-2008, 12:35 PM
hey minty did you change your bearing with motor pulled or still in car? Did it hurt your crank at all? also I was wondering if they made a repair bearing, I have never changes rod bearing b-4 in anything. Any help would be awesome....

it had bad cop's.

NXcoupe
11-07-2008, 03:10 PM
If it has a spun rod bearing, you can't fix it in the car. the crank needs to be machined and the rods would need replaced or if you can find bearings and someone to do it, the rods reconditioned. They can't be redone in a conventional manner because they are cracked cast technology. Better to find a good used shortblock. JMHO. Also, there will be a ton of shavings throughout the engine causing various other problems.

1992MustangDW
11-07-2008, 05:01 PM
holy crap, im so pissed, I dont want to take this damn motor out.

graysonracin
11-07-2008, 08:10 PM
Swapping the motor out isnt bad at all, it would be more of a pain in the ass to try to fix it honestly.:)

cstreu1026
11-07-2008, 08:37 PM
If you have to replace the engine look for a long block out of an Explorer or Mountaineer. It will have an aluminum block and be about 80 pounds lighter.

1992MustangDW
11-07-2008, 08:40 PM
ok so I tore apart the front, if you are standing in front of the motor and look right the timing chain is really tight, if you look to the left it has slop in it and you can slap it agaist the guide. without the motor running will I be able to tell if its bad because they pump up with oil.

1992MustangDW
11-08-2008, 01:19 AM
bumpity

Rustanggt98
11-08-2008, 01:26 AM
I would pull the chain tensioners and make sure there isn't a sludge buildup in the oil journals. I have seen this happen a few times.

1992MustangDW
11-08-2008, 01:34 AM
ok Im new to these things, so it should still be tight right now?

Rustanggt98
11-08-2008, 11:01 AM
when turning it over by hand, it is normal for one to relax while the other one is tight. When cranking it by hand it should be tight almost all the way around and then relax a little bit (slop), then get tight again after a little more cranking.

02mingryGT
11-08-2008, 01:00 PM
hey minty did you change your bearing with motor pulled or still in car? Did it hurt your crank at all? also I was wondering if they made a repair bearing, I have never changes rod bearing b-4 in anything. Any help would be awesome....

it had bad cop's.

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. You're gonna have to pull the motor to change the rod bearings. If your lucky you didn't do any damage to the crank journals like I did....:o

Yes it's normal for one side to have slack and the other to be tight. Don't pull those chains off without putting the motor in safe mode. I think that's 10:30 on the crank. Modular Depot used to have a good write up on how to put the chains on but I don't know if it's still up.

Pulling the motor is cake but you'll need a leveler for the hoist. Take the tranny out with it.

Did you check the oil for bearing material yet?

1992MustangDW
11-08-2008, 08:41 PM
well i could move my timing chain 1 ++ inch. I took off the tensioner hit it with a hammer and put it back on just to see..... it is tight now. why would there be any slack on it because if you look at it it clicks and locks the further it goes out.

02mingryGT
11-09-2008, 03:28 PM
well i could move my timing chain 1 ++ inch. I took off the tensioner hit it with a hammer and put it back on just to see..... it is tight now. why would there be any slack on it because if you look at it it clicks and locks the further it goes out.

When you replace the tensioner you "squeeze" it as far in as you can to be able to get the chains on. When it has pressure applied it then "tightens".

Did you check the oil? I know I keep asking this but I went through the same thing your contemplating now; changed the guides, chains and tensioners. And then ended up finding out it was a spun bearing. The oil told the tale.

1992MustangDW
11-09-2008, 04:31 PM
ok i am out side checking the oil now

1992MustangDW
11-15-2008, 09:26 PM
here is what I found :eek:

02mingryGT
11-16-2008, 10:10 AM
Sorry to hear that. I figured due to my experience that was what it was though. Let me know if you need any help or what not.

1992MustangDW
11-16-2008, 10:51 AM
ok I will thank you.

NXcoupe
11-16-2008, 03:29 PM
Do you need any stock connecting rod/piston assemblies or a stock crank? I have stuff here if you need it.

1992MustangDW
11-16-2008, 08:48 PM
torque specs on rod bearing and main bearings.