Dirtyd0g
08-04-2009, 02:29 AM
I cut this converter open the other day. Sorry I didn't get the pictures up sooner I have been busy.
I don't have a picture of the front cover but I can tell you it is good stuff. It is the sonnax billet front cover that I use. I have used them in applications exceeding 2000ftlb of torque without incident.
The pump of this converter was furnace brazed and of acceptable quality. I didn't like double weight stack they had on it, but it is acceptable. However it is a stock cavalier pump. Why did Dacco use this pump? Because they are the only ones that are often found furnace brazed. It is too high of a stall pump for this application and they knew it. The pump that was in it is on the right, the new pump I built for this is on the left. The fin angle difference is what will correct the stall and make this thing right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/pumps.jpg
Notice I tig welded the tips of the fins to make this a durable unit.
The stator was an absolute mess. It is the lowest stall of these stators and they butchered it to lower the stall more, which accounts for the excessively high stall pump. The down side of doing things this way is efficeincy is slaughtered, stall will be halfway decent. Using the correct pump is the better method. Here is a front view of the stators showing the cut one on the left and the one I will use in this on the right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/stators.jpg
The other side of the stators tells more. I left the parts out of this unit because they were removed for washing, it was a stock gm roller clutch that is good for a max of about 400horsepower with no transbrake. The stator I built on the right has a sprag eliminator in it. THis will handle anything you throw at it and is transbrake friendly.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/stators2.jpg
The turbines. This is the ugly part. Dacco did not furnace braze this part instead they butchered it with a torch it appears. Burning holes everywhere and melting fins. It was crashed and causing problems.
The stator that was in this is on the left, the replacement I built is on the right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/turbines.jpg
Here is a picture to show the quality of their welds.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/weld.jpg
Here is a picture of the damage I found.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/crash.jpg
The welding of these tips on a furnace brazed turbine is actually very important. Under the stress of a transbrake they will give up anyway. The most important thing is not to destroy the metal integrity when you do it. To solve the problem we have to use a material that melts at a low temperature and flows in well. Silicon bronze is the only thing I have found to really work. Here is a picture of the turbine after I welded the tips.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/good.jpg
All said and done there is about $250( I may be over guessing I will have to get exact figures) or so in parts to get this done, but I can honestly say it will last through a few seasons of hard racing, before needing refreshed and the bearings replaced. It is the right way to do it.
Alan
I don't have a picture of the front cover but I can tell you it is good stuff. It is the sonnax billet front cover that I use. I have used them in applications exceeding 2000ftlb of torque without incident.
The pump of this converter was furnace brazed and of acceptable quality. I didn't like double weight stack they had on it, but it is acceptable. However it is a stock cavalier pump. Why did Dacco use this pump? Because they are the only ones that are often found furnace brazed. It is too high of a stall pump for this application and they knew it. The pump that was in it is on the right, the new pump I built for this is on the left. The fin angle difference is what will correct the stall and make this thing right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/pumps.jpg
Notice I tig welded the tips of the fins to make this a durable unit.
The stator was an absolute mess. It is the lowest stall of these stators and they butchered it to lower the stall more, which accounts for the excessively high stall pump. The down side of doing things this way is efficeincy is slaughtered, stall will be halfway decent. Using the correct pump is the better method. Here is a front view of the stators showing the cut one on the left and the one I will use in this on the right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/stators.jpg
The other side of the stators tells more. I left the parts out of this unit because they were removed for washing, it was a stock gm roller clutch that is good for a max of about 400horsepower with no transbrake. The stator I built on the right has a sprag eliminator in it. THis will handle anything you throw at it and is transbrake friendly.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/stators2.jpg
The turbines. This is the ugly part. Dacco did not furnace braze this part instead they butchered it with a torch it appears. Burning holes everywhere and melting fins. It was crashed and causing problems.
The stator that was in this is on the left, the replacement I built is on the right.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/turbines.jpg
Here is a picture to show the quality of their welds.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/weld.jpg
Here is a picture of the damage I found.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/crash.jpg
The welding of these tips on a furnace brazed turbine is actually very important. Under the stress of a transbrake they will give up anyway. The most important thing is not to destroy the metal integrity when you do it. To solve the problem we have to use a material that melts at a low temperature and flows in well. Silicon bronze is the only thing I have found to really work. Here is a picture of the turbine after I welded the tips.
http://members.tccoa.com/dirtyd0g/pinks/good.jpg
All said and done there is about $250( I may be over guessing I will have to get exact figures) or so in parts to get this done, but I can honestly say it will last through a few seasons of hard racing, before needing refreshed and the bearings replaced. It is the right way to do it.
Alan