Anyone have experience with a Dodge Viper T56 trans?

[5.0calypso93lx]

I've got a couple questions about a T56 out of a viper. It's not a viper spec trans but an actual viper trans. Anyone local ever worked on one or gone through one?

I'm hearing the shifter position is the same as the Cobra T56?

[NXcoupe]

Yes, the one in my vert is a viper tailshaft, it uses the same shifter as a cobra. It is proper placement for a fox body, as it works great in mine. You need to swap out the input shaft, and the front cover assembly. You also need to change out the bellhousing. But, if you want to hot rod it, you can fab a pilot bearing and space the trans out so the input will work, but you will still need a bellhousing for it. My advice is to buy the parts and do it right the first time, you are money ahead already having the trans, that's the biggest money of the project. You will also need to custom fab a crossmember for it, or buy the D&D unit, as the trans mount sits wwwaaaaayyyy back.
Hope this helps. Matt can swap the parts for you at a good price, shouldn't take long to do.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yes, the one in my vert is a viper tailshaft, it uses the same shifter as a cobra. It is proper placement for a fox body, as it works great in mine. You need to swap out the input shaft, and the front cover assembly. You also need to change out the bellhousing. But, if you want to hot rod it, you can fab a pilot bearing and space the trans out so the input will work, but you will still need a bellhousing for it. My advice is to buy the parts and do it right the first time, you are money ahead already having the trans, that's the biggest money of the project. You will also need to custom fab a crossmember for it, or buy the D&D unit, as the trans mount sits wwwaaaaayyyy back.
Hope this helps. Matt can swap the parts for you at a good price, shouldn't take long to do.

I've got the HPM crossmember for the Cobra T-56, we'll find out if the mount position is the same or not.

The input shaft is damaged so that will need replaced either way.

I'm going with a Quicktime bellhousing and I know I need the RM-6050 (http://www.capitalgear.ca/items/parts/automotive/quicktime/ford-bellhousings/rm6050-detail.htm) .

Kenny (fordfan) used the Quicktime and didn't need to buy the midplate, so that's what I'm hoping I'm going to be able to do as well. I don't know if the position is 7' o clock on the viper trans like it is the Cobra unit?

Any idea if I'll be able to use the stock OEM clutch fork??

I'm not really 100% sure what needs replaced on this trans, so we'll wait until I get it this coming weekend.

[latamud]

I used a Viper T56 in my SBF setup. I modded a Lakewood T5 bellhousing before there was an adapter bell. As long as the Quicktime bell has the pivot for the Fork, and the access hole on the side you should be able to use the standard Fork. My Viper T56 didn't have a fork pivot ball nor bearing retainer for the throwout bearing to ride on, I think that is why you might need the front plate swapped. But, because the T5 bell is sealed in the rear it had the pivot ball for the fork, and I made a spacer to bolt a T5 bearing retainer to the Viper T56 centering it behind the T5 bell.

Cobra front plate, see the pivot ball, on the Viper T56 the boss isn't tapped, and the bearing retainer is fitted to the front plate
http://www.forerunners.com/images/t56-2_sm.jpg

This is kinda what I did, but my spacer puts the base of the bearing retainer flush with the front edge of the front plate to get allow the input shaft to go deeper into the pilot bearing.
http://bowlertransmissions.com/images/Items/ChevyT56ViperStyle_01272008103308_medium.jpg

Viper T56, see the boss untapped?, no bearing retainer
http://www.drrummel.com/Mustang/T56/T56-RT10/InputShaft.JPG
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh18/Two_6s/T56/IMG_0934.jpg

This is a D&D I think, see the machined plate under the fork.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5131/dsc00391ac4.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Yeah, I used the D&D kit, it worked smooth. Bart is the man when it comes to making something work with just what he has around him. I would get a I would get the quicktimme bell and then see what you have to change on the input to make it work. Could be some simple machining of the input shaft.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I used a Viper T56 in my SBF setup. I modded a Lakewood T5 bellhousing before there was an adapter bell. As long as the Quicktime bell has the pivot for the Fork, and the access hole on the side you should be able to use the standard Fork. My Viper T56 didn't have a fork pivot ball nor bearing retainer for the throwout bearing to ride on, I think that is why you might need the front plate swapped. But, because the T5 bell is sealed in the rear it had the pivot ball for the fork, and I made a spacer to bolt a T5 bearing retainer to the Viper T56 centering it behind the T5 bell.

Cobra front plate, see the pivot ball, on the Viper T56 the boss isn't tapped, and the bearing retainer is fitted to the front plate
http://www.forerunners.com/images/t56-2_sm.jpg

This is kinda what I did, but my spacer puts the base of the bearing retainer flush with the front edge of the front plate to get allow the input shaft to go deeper into the pilot bearing.
http://bowlertransmissions.com/images/Items/ChevyT56ViperStyle_01272008103308_medium.jpg

Viper T56, see the boss untapped?, no bearing retainer
http://www.drrummel.com/Mustang/T56/T56-RT10/InputShaft.JPG
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh18/Two_6s/T56/IMG_0934.jpg

This is a D&D I think, see the machined plate under the fork.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5131/dsc00391ac4.jpg

I get what you're saying now that I can see it in person haha. My trans is just like that one in the last pic. I'm not sure if I can buy that bearing retainer piece seperate from D&D? Also, I need to check and find out if the Quicktime bell has the pivot ball for the fork.

The good thing is that this mid plate has the fork exit at the 9 o clock position which is how a fox is stock with the t5. The only problem is that I'm going to have to clearance that plate and remove all the hydraulic stuff that the viper trans has:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1409.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1410.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yeah, I used the D&D kit, it worked smooth. Bart is the man when it comes to making something work with just what he has around him. I would get a I would get the quicktimme bell and then see what you have to change on the input to make it work. Could be some simple machining of the input shaft.

Yep, I'm going to get the Quicktime and see what else I'm going to need. The input shaft shouldn't need any work at all besides just replacing mine because it's damaged. If I understand correctly, the Quicktime bell that is specific for the viper trans behind a 5.0/5.8 offsets the different length in input shaft.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Well latamud, I found the thread where the guy posted that pic. That is in fact a D&D setup and that billet piece was made by them at one point. It's no longer available though.

I really don't want to have to drop the $400 on a new midplate if I can have someone make this piece for me. Anyone local that can do this kind of thing??

[latamud]

Well latamud, I found the thread where the guy posted that pic. That is in fact a D&D setup and that billet piece was made by them at one point. It's no longer available though.

I really don't want to have to drop the $400 on a new midplate if I can have someone make this piece for me. Anyone local that can do this kind of thing??

You don't need to buy a new midplate. You can use a Hydraulic throwout bearing with the quicktime bell and that would solve your problem, done.

Or, if you have to use the cable and fork setup you can get one of these:
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm#image_1
It's for a GM bell, but you can have it redrilled for Ford T5 bell and bearing retainer. Reuse your bell, mod the crossmember, get a new slip yoke and shorten the driveshaft.
http://http://www.thegearbox.org/i//adapter_t56_3.jpg

I know of another 66 with a Viper T56 in it, user name: shakin66, he did something like this.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Cams%20toys/CIMG2169.jpg


Here's my setup, more work than some people are willing to go through:
A blowproof T5 bell (pre-94)
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219449/2205350_72_full_detail.jpg

Ford T5 bearing retainer, pulled off a spare T5 in the garage
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219453/2205350_73_full_detail.jpg

Here's my spare T5 next to the viper T56, notice on the T56 the distance from the outer edge of the mid plate to the end of the input shaft is same as the mounted length for the T5
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219461/2205350_79_full_detail.jpg

Here is the trick, I did this and it is overkill and I'll tell you why:
http://www.hubgarage.com/photos/0177/0810/IMG_2016_thumb.JPG?1253666911

I started with a 1.5" thick plate, used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff discs and cut a circle the same outer diameter as the T5 bearing retainer (br). The depth of the T56 front plate from the inner surface to the outer edge is about 1". The two holes on the front plate around the input shaft are a few mm closer than the holes on the T5 br. My plan was to make a perfect spacer that would sandwich between the br and the T56, which would center behind the bell, and have the br extend a little beyond the inner surface of the bell. Back to the spacer, the centerbore, holesaw forever to punch through, place the br on top and mark 4 spots for the mounting holes. 2 holes on the br were marked to be ovalized to allow them to match up wit the two on the T56, dremel or drill to fit. I test fit the br to the t56 to make sure it was centered on the input shaft, then remarked 2 of the 4 holes on the spacer to match the T56 and drilled. 2 bolts go through the br, the spacer and thread into the T56. I tapped the other 2 holes in the spacer and the br bolts to it. But, when I was sanding down the outer edge of my 1.5" spacer I went too far and it wasn't perfect circle on the outer dia. That's where it was overkill in the first place, like i said, the depth is only about 1" anyways, so I cut about 1/2" off my ring, and the excess is what you see pictured above. This way, the only thing centering the T56 behind the bell would be the br. So, lesson learned, the spacer outer edge doesn't have to be perfect, could be octagon as long as it doesn't extend beyond the depth of the front plate, sits level on the front late and the br is centered on the input shaft. (by the way, I spent parts of 4 days, maybe 24 hours total, turning by hand and using a 10" circular bench sander to round the outer edge, the platform got off 90" and i didn't notice until it was just slightly too late)
I pulled the 2 dowels out of the T56, placed the blowproof bell on top of a milk crate to allow the input shaft to extend beyond the bell. The br centered the T56, I clocked it where I wanted it, marked the dowel pin holes and drilled. replaced the dowels. From here I marked as many holes as I could for the bolt holes to mount the T56 behind the bell. I used the steel bell because it has more surface area in the back to allow more mounting points for the T56, got mine used local for a fair price. I think there are 10 holes to mount the T56, and I was able to use 7 or 8, the two top holes have nothing in them seen in pic above. The bottom holes go through on the curve, so I separated the T56 from the bell and auged those hole out until the bolts would go through straight. With as many of the holes as I could get through, I ran grade 8 bolts, on the inside of the bell I ran grade 8 nuts down. On the bottom 2 holes I used some washers to space the bell flat. From here i welded the nuts to the bell, bottom nuts welded to the washers-welded to the bell etc.

For pilot bearing, I took a sbf bronze bushing ($4) for a toploader, same dimensions as a T5 roller,
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/Photo/Mustang/Clutch-PilotBush.jpg
and the Mopar roller bearing ($8, same for Viper or Jeep Cherokee)
http://www.keislerauto.com/images/install_notes/corvette/c1/image004.jpg
The Mopar pilot outer dia is like .030 wide than the inner dia of the sbf bushing. I marked the area I needed to remove from the bronze bushing and pressed the mopar bearing into the ford bushing. Viola, Viper pilot for the sbf.
Press that into the back of the crank, mocked the tranny bell, 26 spline clutch and flywheel to the engine and the input shaft slipped right in easier than a T5, first try.
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219469/2205350_94_full_detail.jpg

Tools I used a lot, my caliper, a compass, tape measure, ruler and calculator.

Next time I pull the engine I'm installing a hydraulic setup. I'll pull everything apart and take some documented pics to add to this explanation. Hope this helps someone.

[latamud]

Says it uses OEM shift Fork.

http://bowlertransmissions.com/itemdetails.aspx?iid=516
5.0/5.8 Ford Bellhousing/T-56 Viper Transmission

* Height = 6.322"
* Engine = Ford 289/302/351W/351C
* Trans. = T-56 Viper
* Clutch Ø = 10.5"
* Flywheel = 157 tooth
* Weight = 21#
* Use OEM Shifter fork
* Has passed ALL SFI testing
* Full engine plate and grade 8 bolts included

[Rick93coupe]

You don't need to buy a new midplate. You can use a Hydraulic throwout bearing with the quicktime bell and that would solve your problem, done.

Or, if you have to use the cable and fork setup you can get one of these:
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm#image_1
It's for a GM bell, but you can have it redrilled for Ford T5 bell and bearing retainer. Reuse your bell, mod the crossmember, get a new slip yoke and shorten the driveshaft.
http://http://www.thegearbox.org/i//adapter_t56_3.jpg

I know of another 66 with a Viper T56 in it, user name: shakin66, he did something like this.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Cams%20toys/CIMG2169.jpg


Here's my setup, more work than some people are willing to go through:
A blowproof T5 bell (pre-94)
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219449/2205350_72_full_detail.jpg

Ford T5 bearing retainer, pulled off a spare T5 in the garage
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219453/2205350_73_full_detail.jpg

Here's my spare T5 next to the viper T56, notice on the T56 the distance from the outer edge of the mid plate to the end of the input shaft is same as the mounted length for the T5
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219461/2205350_79_full_detail.jpg

Here is the trick, I did this and it is overkill and I'll tell you why:
http://www.hubgarage.com/photos/0177/0810/IMG_2016_thumb.JPG?1253666911

I started with a 1.5" thick plate, used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff discs and cut a circle the same outer diameter as the T5 bearing retainer (br). The depth of the T56 front plate from the inner surface to the outer edge is about 1". The two holes on the front plate around the input shaft are a few mm closer than the holes on the T5 br. My plan was to make a perfect spacer that would sandwich between the br and the T56, which would center behind the bell, and have the br extend a little beyond the inner surface of the bell. Back to the spacer, the centerbore, holesaw forever to punch through, place the br on top and mark 4 spots for the mounting holes. 2 holes on the br were marked to be ovalized to allow them to match up wit the two on the T56, dremel or drill to fit. I test fit the br to the t56 to make sure it was centered on the input shaft, then remarked 2 of the 4 holes on the spacer to match the T56 and drilled. 2 bolts go through the br, the spacer and thread into the T56. I tapped the other 2 holes in the spacer and the br bolts to it. But, when I was sanding down the outer edge of my 1.5" spacer I went too far and it wasn't perfect circle on the outer dia. That's where it was overkill in the first place, like i said, the depth is only about 1" anyways, so I cut about 1/2" off my ring, and the excess is what you see pictured above. This way, the only thing centering the T56 behind the bell would be the br. So, lesson learned, the spacer outer edge doesn't have to be perfect, could be octagon as long as it doesn't extend beyond the depth of the front plate, sits level on the front late and the br is centered on the input shaft. (by the way, I spent parts of 4 days, maybe 24 hours total, turning by hand and using a 10" circular bench sander to round the outer edge, the platform got off 90" and i didn't notice until it was just slightly too late)
I pulled the 2 dowels out of the T56, placed the blowproof bell on top of a milk crate to allow the input shaft to extend beyond the bell. The br centered the T56, I clocked it where I wanted it, marked the dowel pin holes and drilled. replaced the dowels. From here I marked as many holes as I could for the bolt holes to mount the T56 behind the bell. I used the steel bell because it has more surface area in the back to allow more mounting points for the T56, got mine used local for a fair price. I think there are 10 holes to mount the T56, and I was able to use 7 or 8, the two top holes have nothing in them seen in pic above. The bottom holes go through on the curve, so I separated the T56 from the bell and auged those hole out until the bolts would go through straight. With as many of the holes as I could get through, I ran grade 8 bolts, on the inside of the bell I ran grade 8 nuts down. On the bottom 2 holes I used some washers to space the bell flat. From here i welded the nuts to the bell, bottom nuts welded to the washers-welded to the bell etc.

For pilot bearing, I took a sbf bronze bushing ($4) for a toploader, same dimensions as a T5 roller,
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/Photo/Mustang/Clutch-PilotBush.jpg
and the Mopar roller bearing ($8, same for Viper or Jeep Cherokee)
http://www.keislerauto.com/images/install_notes/corvette/c1/image004.jpg
The Mopar pilot outer dia is like .030 wide than the inner dia of the sbf bushing. I marked the area I needed to remove from the bronze bushing and pressed the mopar bearing into the ford bushing. Viola, Viper pilot for the sbf.
Press that into the back of the crank, mocked the tranny bell, 26 spline clutch and flywheel to the engine and the input shaft slipped right in easier than a T5, first try.
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219469/2205350_94_full_detail.jpg

Tools I used a lot, my caliper, a compass, tape measure, ruler and calculator.

Next time I pull the engine I'm installing a hydraulic setup. I'll pull everything apart and take some documented pics to add to this explanation. Hope this helps someone.

You are officially "the man", that's pretty cool how you worked all that out. :bigthumb

[5.0calypso93lx]

You don't need to buy a new midplate. You can use a Hydraulic throwout bearing with the quicktime bell and that would solve your problem, done.

Or, if you have to use the cable and fork setup you can get one of these:
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm#image_1
It's for a GM bell, but you can have it redrilled for Ford T5 bell and bearing retainer. Reuse your bell, mod the crossmember, get a new slip yoke and shorten the driveshaft.
http://http://www.thegearbox.org/i//adapter_t56_3.jpg

I know of another 66 with a Viper T56 in it, user name: shakin66, he did something like this.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Cams%20toys/CIMG2169.jpg


Here's my setup, more work than some people are willing to go through:
A blowproof T5 bell (pre-94)
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219449/2205350_72_full_detail.jpg

Ford T5 bearing retainer, pulled off a spare T5 in the garage
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219453/2205350_73_full_detail.jpg

Here's my spare T5 next to the viper T56, notice on the T56 the distance from the outer edge of the mid plate to the end of the input shaft is same as the mounted length for the T5
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219461/2205350_79_full_detail.jpg

Here is the trick, I did this and it is overkill and I'll tell you why:
http://www.hubgarage.com/photos/0177/0810/IMG_2016_thumb.JPG?1253666911

I started with a 1.5" thick plate, used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff discs and cut a circle the same outer diameter as the T5 bearing retainer (br). The depth of the T56 front plate from the inner surface to the outer edge is about 1". The two holes on the front plate around the input shaft are a few mm closer than the holes on the T5 br. My plan was to make a perfect spacer that would sandwich between the br and the T56, which would center behind the bell, and have the br extend a little beyond the inner surface of the bell. Back to the spacer, the centerbore, holesaw forever to punch through, place the br on top and mark 4 spots for the mounting holes. 2 holes on the br were marked to be ovalized to allow them to match up wit the two on the T56, dremel or drill to fit. I test fit the br to the t56 to make sure it was centered on the input shaft, then remarked 2 of the 4 holes on the spacer to match the T56 and drilled. 2 bolts go through the br, the spacer and thread into the T56. I tapped the other 2 holes in the spacer and the br bolts to it. But, when I was sanding down the outer edge of my 1.5" spacer I went too far and it wasn't perfect circle on the outer dia. That's where it was overkill in the first place, like i said, the depth is only about 1" anyways, so I cut about 1/2" off my ring, and the excess is what you see pictured above. This way, the only thing centering the T56 behind the bell would be the br. So, lesson learned, the spacer outer edge doesn't have to be perfect, could be octagon as long as it doesn't extend beyond the depth of the front plate, sits level on the front late and the br is centered on the input shaft. (by the way, I spent parts of 4 days, maybe 24 hours total, turning by hand and using a 10" circular bench sander to round the outer edge, the platform got off 90" and i didn't notice until it was just slightly too late)
I pulled the 2 dowels out of the T56, placed the blowproof bell on top of a milk crate to allow the input shaft to extend beyond the bell. The br centered the T56, I clocked it where I wanted it, marked the dowel pin holes and drilled. replaced the dowels. From here I marked as many holes as I could for the bolt holes to mount the T56 behind the bell. I used the steel bell because it has more surface area in the back to allow more mounting points for the T56, got mine used local for a fair price. I think there are 10 holes to mount the T56, and I was able to use 7 or 8, the two top holes have nothing in them seen in pic above. The bottom holes go through on the curve, so I separated the T56 from the bell and auged those hole out until the bolts would go through straight. With as many of the holes as I could get through, I ran grade 8 bolts, on the inside of the bell I ran grade 8 nuts down. On the bottom 2 holes I used some washers to space the bell flat. From here i welded the nuts to the bell, bottom nuts welded to the washers-welded to the bell etc.

For pilot bearing, I took a sbf bronze bushing ($4) for a toploader, same dimensions as a T5 roller,
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/Photo/Mustang/Clutch-PilotBush.jpg
and the Mopar roller bearing ($8, same for Viper or Jeep Cherokee)
http://www.keislerauto.com/images/install_notes/corvette/c1/image004.jpg
The Mopar pilot outer dia is like .030 wide than the inner dia of the sbf bushing. I marked the area I needed to remove from the bronze bushing and pressed the mopar bearing into the ford bushing. Viola, Viper pilot for the sbf.
Press that into the back of the crank, mocked the tranny bell, 26 spline clutch and flywheel to the engine and the input shaft slipped right in easier than a T5, first try.
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/219469/2205350_94_full_detail.jpg

Tools I used a lot, my caliper, a compass, tape measure, ruler and calculator.

Next time I pull the engine I'm installing a hydraulic setup. I'll pull everything apart and take some documented pics to add to this explanation. Hope this helps someone.

I would love to go hydraulic, but I have no idea how that works and where I would mount a slave cylinder. Do you have more information on this?

The problem that I have is that I don't have any of the stock T5 stuff left and I already have an HPM crossmember for a T56 into a fox. I think after I bought that mounting plate you linked in the beginning(where would the pivot ball go on that plate anyway??), bought a nice T5 bearing retainer etc., it might just be better off to spend the money on the Mcleod midplate and be done with it?

[latamud]

I would love to go hydraulic, but I have no idea how that works and where I would mount a slave cylinder. Do you have more information on this?


The hydraulic clutch setup, I mount a small master cylinder to the firewall with a rod mounted to the clutch pedal, similar to the brake master cylinder. From the MC a pressure line is plumbed to a hydraulic throwout bearing that would bolt to those two holes on the T56 front plate, and it would go around the input shaft. When you press the pedal hydraulic fluid moves into the hydraulic throwout bearing and it moves forward into the pressure plate. Similar to how the piston in a brake caliper presses against the pad and rotor.




The problem that I have is that I don't have any of the stock T5 stuff left and I already have an HPM crossmember for a T56 into a fox. I think after I bought that mounting plate you linked in the beginning(where would the pivot ball go on that plate anyway??)

For the adapter plate I posted in the beginning, the plate would bolt behind a T5 bellhousing just like in the pics of my friends engine and tranny mounted together. Then, the tranny would mount to the plate. If you can remember what a T5 bellhousing looks like, it has a threaded hole on the inside, that is where your pivot ball would go.
Look close, see the adapter plate between the T56 and T5 bell.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/Cams%20toys/CIMG2169.jpg


bought a nice T5 bearing retainer etc., it might just be better off to spend the money on the Mcleod midplate and be done with it?

The thing with buying the Mcleod midplate is you still have to buy the quicktime bellhousing too. Although, the quicktime bell for the Viper to SBF is advertised as "Use OEM Shifter fork". So that tells me it it might have a bss for a pivot ball to mount to.

If you go to a machine shop they could make an adapter plate to mount the T56 behind a T5 bell, which would be cheaper than a quicktime bell. My idea of getting that $130 Chevy one and modifying it would be a reasonable alternative to having a machine shop start from scratch.

Better than buying the $300 Mcleod midplate, a machine shop could make the pivot ball adapter seen here:
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/5131/dsc00391ac4.jpg

Heck, it really wouldn't take much for you to hack a hunk of aluminum up to make one yourself. All it needs to do is bolt the the T56 front plate, have a hole in the middle for the input shaft to go through (not even a perfect circle or perfect centered as long as the input doesn't touch it) then at the 3:00 position drill a hole and tap it for the ball pivot stud, add a piece of pipe for a spacer like as seen in the pic above, use some lock tite. Bolt that up to a quicktime bell and your in business. D&D spent the time to make a nice marketable product, it has to look sexy to sell. The T56 will not care what anything you bolt up to it looks like. It's gonna GO!

I hate to see you throw $300 at a Mcleod front plate.

You could just use a Cobra T56 midplate, it has the ball pivot. Although the fork is at 7:00, not 9:00.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m232/bikewiz/mustang/e04f_3.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Ugh, decisions lol. I know I don't want to use a stock T5 bel because I want the SFI approval with the Quicktime bell. I know you can get SFI T5 bellhousings but if I'm going to spend the money, might as well just get the Quicktime. I think that's going to be my next purchase and just see how everything bolts up. I'd like to see if the quicktime has the ball stud on it somewhere like the T5 does.

In the pic with the D&D machined adapter that mounts to the midplate and goes around the input shaft, how is the TOB retainer held in or how does a T56 TOB retainer mount?

[latamud]

In the pic with the D&D machined adapter that mounts to the midplate and goes around the input shaft, how is the TOB retainer held in or how does a T56 TOB retainer mount?

Damn, I forgot about that, D&D pressed that in. I've seen a bearing retainer shaft for sale without the base. I suppose that would press into the D&D adapter. They won't sell just that adapter without the rest of the kit though. But, for the rough design I just wrote up for a home made one, a T5 bearing retainer would easily bolt to the face of it. I'm excited for you, want to see what you decide to go with. I don't drag race so SFI cert means nothing to me. See, it'll be guys who don't want to recert their Viper to SBF quicktime bell in a few years that'll give me a great deal on a nice used one.

Call quicktime and ask them how to use the OEM fork as their ad says you can.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Damn, I forgot about that, D&D pressed that in. I've seen a bearing retainer shaft for sale without the base. I suppose that would press into the D&D adapter. They won't sell just that adapter without the rest of the kit though. But, for the rough design I just wrote up for a home made one, a T5 bearing retainer would easily bolt to the face of it. I'm excited for you, want to see what you decide to go with. I don't drag race so SFI cert means nothing to me. See, it'll be guys who don't want to recert their Viper to SBF quicktime bell in a few years that'll give me a great deal on a nice used one.

Call quicktime and ask them how to use the OEM fork as their ad says you can.

I actually called and spoke with D&D a few days ago and they don't even make those billet adapters anymore at all. They have their own midplates now that they use rather than making adapters.

I'm just kind of concerned because I've read a few threads over on corral where guys are having full clutch engagement/disengagement issues when all of this isn't exactly right(ball stud height, which clutch fork, etc.).

This car will eventually be boosted so I don't want a flywheel coming through the floor and removing my feet so I'm gonna stick with the SFI ;)

I'll be calling Quicktime here shortly and let you know what I find out.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Well this is a first! I called Quicktime and spoke with Ross first. He wasn't too terribly familiar with this kind of setup and he recomended that I called D&D and ask for Don. I was kind of dreading that as I've called D&D a long time ago about a Cobra T-56 I had and they weren't very helpful with the questions I was asking and basically everything came back to, "you need to buy one of our kits". This was probably over a year ago.

I then called back a few days ago about that billet adapter and they told me they didn't make those anymore, and that's all I asked.

Well I just called and asked for Don like Ross from Quicktime said and I am very glad I did. SUPER nice guy!!! Very knowledgeable too. I didn't even know it till the end but it was Don Walsh Sr.

I told him what my setup was and what I planned to do and what my issues were with the ballstud, fork and tob retainer.

He told me I can just send in my Viper midplate that is on the trans now to D&D and for $200, he'll mod my stock Viper hydraulic midplate, add the ball stud, and press in a tob retainer, as long as I buy the Quicktime bellhousing from them for $450 which really isn't too far off of what they typically sell for! And that $200 includes the ball stud and tob retainer! :cool1::cool1:


So for $650, I'll be able to mount this trans in the car and have it ready to go! :cool1:

The only other issue I have to worry about is the speedo and how far off the HPM crossmember is going to be with the extra length of the Viper trans.

[5.0calypso93lx]

This is the thread I was referring to, btw, about clutch adjustment and where the ball stud needs to be. I know this is referring to a twin disk clutch, which I'll probably need in the future, but the principal is the same. Tons of good information in here:

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1141786&highlight=mcleod+midplate