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need thoughts on cam [Archive] - StangBangerz Forums

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TONYT
12-21-2011, 02:17 PM
i am toying with the idea of runnig a solid roller in my new combo,this combo is more of a street car than a track car,i currently have a hyd roller in the motor,but been hammered on by a few motor heads to install a solid roller in it,i have it also,as my new heads are set up for solid roller,so i switch springs to work with current cam or switch cams to work with springs

cam#1 comp 274hr12
cam #2 jay allen custom grind 247/257 644/633 114lobe sep.
cam# 3 comp cam 280hr

what might you do

331lx
12-21-2011, 02:35 PM
Cam #2 prolly make most power

TONYT
12-21-2011, 03:01 PM
thats why they want me to make change ,based on power
looking at ease of maint.,dont you have to readjust solid rollers more often

331lx
12-21-2011, 03:47 PM
I think so but i don't think its very often. It would b worth the power in my book.

Goober
12-21-2011, 03:58 PM
Lash maintence varys with lash ramp angle on those TLSR cams. Usually once you set and fine tune it for a few cycles it'll stay.

Goober
12-21-2011, 04:19 PM
Also, does that JA cam come with the card, or do you know what it was ground for?

TONYT
12-21-2011, 05:34 PM
got all info on jay's cam on print out when i had it done

Goober
12-21-2011, 05:38 PM
Ooooh, ok. I was assuming it was a used Jay stick, lol.

Jeff88coupe
12-21-2011, 07:19 PM
Buy a good set of solid roller lifters that force feed the roller bearings. Several manufactures make them. I run a set of lunati s/r lifters in my motor. I use to run a comp xr286r street solid roller in my old 347. Never had a lash problem. Probably checked the lash 2-3 times a race season.
Was the cam Jay did for you spec'ed for the motor your going to put it in?

TONYT
12-21-2011, 07:45 PM
he did it for my old 08 and now thinking of putting it in my 418,it spec out to about where compwas going to grind one for me,and i use the isky red zone tie bar rollers

RacerX
12-24-2011, 02:37 AM
I'd stick w/hyd. Adjusting valves gets old fast, and for a mostly street car you wouldn't lose much with these new profiles. The few 100 RPM's you gain is needed for a race car but how often are you "up there" in a street car? Torque is king on the street.






DR

zoomie
01-06-2012, 02:42 AM
if tourqe is what your after
might i suggest a crane 2020, a comp xe258 hr 12 35-510-8 or a xe258 hr 14.35-512-8

poss even a custom from randy malik of rm competition .

TONYT
01-06-2012, 07:42 AM
which one of these parts do you consider to be most important peice on an engine and why

windage tray or a main support girdle

got both and only one can go on windage tray is suposed to be good for about 12-20 hp at higher rpm,wheresa the girdle suposed to keep everything good and tight ,thought i could use both but they are not compatible,so onegot to go

Jeff88coupe
01-06-2012, 09:09 AM
Your running a windsor block right? Are you going to be making enough HP n/a to really push a stock 351 block? I haven't seen where a main girdle really helps any....basically just holds the 2 sides of the block together when it does split. Also..you need to have the main girdle installed on the block when machined and the mains line honed for the main bearing clearances to be correct. I'd put the windage tray on it...it's actually useful.

TurboNG
01-06-2012, 10:29 AM
I feel That girdles do help hold it all longer, i dont think its good to hold an extra 100hp for say but it would make it last longer, instead of 2 bolts holding the cap all the bolts are holding it. plus youre spreading the force across a larger area.
And as far as the valves with a solid roller, just make it a habit to check them every oil change, an extra 10 min during an oil change isn't that bad.

TurboNG
01-06-2012, 10:31 AM
I'd stick w/hyd. Adjusting valves gets old fast, and for a mostly street car you wouldn't lose much with these new profiles. The few 100 RPM's you gain is needed for a race car but how often are you "up there" in a street car? Torque is king on the street.
DR

Well another 3-400 RPM and 30-60 HP is way to much to leave on the table just because youre to lazy to check the valves 2 times a year.

Jeff88coupe
01-06-2012, 11:09 AM
There isn't enough exact tolerance measurement in the girdle's main stud holes and design to provide any real support....especially in the cheap ching chong made girdles. A few thousands is all that is needed to let the caps walk..there is still only 1 bolt on each side of the main holding each cap. I'd save the $100 for the girdle...put it toward your race block fund.

Goober
01-06-2012, 12:09 PM
But the Windsor has bigger main sizes, it will benefit more from the stability of a girdle.

TONYT
01-06-2012, 07:22 PM
the girdle is on as i said i wanted em both but thats not gone happen,jeff you mentioned the tray actually does something,what???,just validating what i might believe from someone with real life knowledge

Rich
01-07-2012, 07:40 AM
But the Windsor has bigger main sizes, it will benefit more from the stability of a girdle.

I thought this is what caused the cap walk, the large diameter and surface areas of the mains?

TurboNG
01-07-2012, 12:09 PM
The windage tray eleminates oil splash from the crank reducing weight off your crank and freeing up HP

TONYT
01-08-2012, 08:09 AM
yea thats the way i'm a'leaning

rollingthunder
01-12-2012, 10:32 AM
if you put a rocker arm girdle on after the lash is set then you will have even worry of them getting loose on you. I have not run a solid roller cam (till now and I don't have the motor running for comparison) but I do have a solid mech. cam in one car and the valve train noise is alot higher than with a hyd. cam. I don't know if that trend will carry over with the solid roller. I kinda feel that the hp a solid roller can get you is going to come at a cost as well. yes you need to adjust the valves every now and again, but you also have to think about the spring pressures on the valve train and the valves. have to have good valves to hold together for one and then the seats are going to take tremendous abuse. most people also change the springs every two seasons or so because of fatigue. your pushtubes will have to be stronger and possibly longer to work. if it is a race car then solid roller is a good option...but if you can get the lift and duration you want out of a hyd. cam and it is going to be driven on the street alot then I guess I feel that a hyd. may be the better choice. you can set it and forget it for years. might even have the option of going a little bigger on hyd. to mimic what a solid would get you (bullet cams are really good I hear..I ordered one but don't have the car running yet to give a good opinion). This is just my .02 cents since you were asking for opinions and it seemed you also wanted the logic behind the answers. Good luck with the build

TONYT
01-12-2012, 11:55 PM
i'm sort of stuck like chuck now as they say,put in the solid roller with nextek springs,probe shaft mount rockers,mantoon push rods,and the heads were prep'd by tea so sels see what happens,it wont be driven on the street alot but often enuff(lol),oh yea and a set of isky red zone lifters