70 Mach 1 EFI

[NXcoupe]

Well, this is a pretty cool project that fell into my lap this past fall and I thought it would be something that my pepes on sbz might like to follow along with.
What I am doing is putting a holley Avenger EFI kit on a 70 Mach 1. It was originally a 351 2 bbl car, and is very far from original. It is now a 302 with an FMX transmission, and came to me not running. I got it fired and running and told the guy his holley carb was caked with gunk and needed replaced or at minimum rebuilt. He thought it over and asked if there was a way to do EFI, and I tossed out the idea of the new line of holley Avenger EFI to him. It will also work with his shaker hood, so he was all about it. I have since found out that it will also work with a ford TFI distributor so we won't have to do the electronic ignition drop in kit we were thinking about.
I am going to go step by step on the install so if anyone else ever wants to do this they can pick up a kit from me and do it all by following along.
Now, here are pics of it before I got started.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e355956.jpg

And some pics of the engine before:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e3392ce.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e31c1f4.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Next is some pics of the Avenger kit, which I will be showing more detailed pics of each part as I put it on the car.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31a1433f4.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f317441d17.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31745fb23.jpg

[NXcoupe]

As you can see in the previous post, the kit is pretty complete. I ordered the optional TFI harness to allow us to plug and play Electronic Ignition. The computer will control both the spark and the fuel, so a hands free operation. The avenger kit comes with a small handheld unit that allows the end user to make changes and such that are needed if be. I will be using a laptop with the Holley software loaded onto it so I can see the spark and fuel maps easily.
Holley offers different levels all the way up to their dominator kit that rivals the BS3, Gen 7 and others. It is a sequential EFI system that can support up to 2000 hp or more. Very cool stuff coming from them.
The neat thing about this avenger system is how it is a plug and play unit, after answering some questions about the engine combination and such, you turn the key and the wideband adjusts the fuel and learns the engine and what it likes. Pretty cool. We'll see how it works.
I tried to get some before numbers off this, but it's running too poorly at this point and the owner doesn't want to pay me to get it running great just to rip it all off and replace it. So lets say it was 135 hp and a 12.5 a/f ratio to start off with. It ran like crap.
Here are pics of the computer and the TBI, it uses 4 60+ pound injectors.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31a10aa32.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31a127247.jpg

[mustang_gt88]

sweet project

[motox159]

I want that car man

[93hulk]

Cool write up Mike, keep the updates coming.:cool1:

[91boost]

Sweet project. keep the pics coming

[RIXXX93GT]

I always liked that body style....cool project!

[TurboNG]

Bout time..... LOL

[2Fast4You]

This will be a great piece of info for many to come.

[NXcoupe]

Thanks guys! I thought it was too cool to keep to myself, and Ken B hit a nerve a couple weeks back with something he said and it struck home. So this is following his advice.
Anyway, back to the project. Yesterday, I put the coolant temp sensor in, only place it would fit was in the water neck, so I will have to watch the cold starts and make sure it's reading correctly, otherwise I will need to come up with an adapter for the heater hose nipple to put the coolant temp sensor in that. I think this will work since all the water is being circulated by the bypass and most all thermostats have one little hole in them to allow water to bypass the thermostat.
Next, I cut the rubber hose that goes to the factory mechanical fuel pump and let what was left of the fuel drain out. So the first hint I can give to someone doing this swap is make sure your tank is nearly EMPTY before you begin. Or be prepared with a big drain to catch it all. lol.
I'm working on it now and have more pics as soon as Donna gets here and downloads, resizes and hosts them, I will post them up.

[NXcoupe]

Ok, so here I cut the hose going from the frame rail to the fuel pump, and am letting it drain out.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68f382cc.jpg

[NXcoupe]

After it drained out(took so long I just went home and got started on it the next day), I started getting the old mechanical fuel pump off. It is so much easier doing from the bottom up. You can see where I cut the line in half to drain.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68f54593.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68f7033b.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Here it is removed from the vehicle. I also removed the hard line that went from the pump to the carb.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68f8c5e3.jpg
Here's the empty hole where the pump used to be. Have to clean the old gasket off.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68fa8282.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Here's the block off plate and gasket that come with the kit.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68fc3d17.jpg
Here is the plate installed after I cleaned the surface of all the old gasket. I had to supply the bolts to hold it on.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f68fe08b2.jpg

[NXcoupe]

This is what I like to see, carb gone!
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f69008f33.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Here is the throttle body mounted on. I had to supply the studs and nuts, the ones that come with the kit are not long enough to work with the spacer they give you.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f69025cb5.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I ran the fuel supply line down the driver's side and down to where the old pump used to be. I want to point out that the kit does not come with any EFI high pressure fuel line and clamps. This stuff is expensive, but you buy it once, that's the good thing. The clamps have to be the EFI High Pressure kind, like a band clamp for fuel line.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f7245c0a7.jpg

[NXcoupe]

The inlet and return fuel nipples come out the back of the TB.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f7243e2e8.jpg

[NXcoupe]

After this it was time to run the car back up in the air and tie up the supply line. I had to remove the old, hardened hose from the steel supply line that runs from the tank up through the inner fender. Here's a shot of where it's at and then a closer view of it coming through the inner fender.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f724ec77c.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f72514a43.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I took off the spring clamp and ran the EFI high pressure hose onto the steel line and clamped it, then put the high side filter inline, and clamped it, then clamped it to the supply line that goes up and around to the throttle body. I secured the line on the engine side to keep it from flopping around. The filter is supplied with the kit and is available through any napa.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f72531397.jpg

[NXcoupe]

So the next thing to do was to let the car down and move onto the next phase. There is another very cool deal with this kit, and that's you can run a TFI distributor with it, you can specify the timing for each cell of the map. That means that for a given rpm and load, you can set how much timing you want in the engine. It also does away with points and the low voltage ignition. It will work much better and make the car much more drivable and dependable for long trips.
First thing was to remove the old one from the car and SUPRISE!! I hate stupidity,if you don't know what you are doing, then don't do it.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f72495bc7.jpg
The oil pump driveshaft was stuck in the distributor and there was no clip on the shaft to keep it in the engine when the dist was removed. poor assembly by whoever did the engine.

[NXcoupe]

So I got the shaft out, used white lithium, and got it to stick in the new distributor. First is a pic of the new distributor, then of it in the engine, and you can see the coolant temp sensor in the intake, but I am going to swap them now as you can see there is a lot more clearance for the temp sensor now that the TFI distributor is in there. I put the distributor/shaft assembly in and then cranked the engine over to verify the shaft engaged and was turning the oil pump. It was! so we are good to go. Also going to need to lose the yellow accell wires(yeah) and the better large cap with snap on wires, like FRPP ones.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f7247950d.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f724b18ac.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Well, after I got the distributor in, I started putting the FRPP red wires on, going one wire at a time so it would be close to being in time when it comes time to start it. They look good and I'll have some picks later of that. Now, I put it back up in the air to start on the pump install. Here is a pic of the antique hard as a rock fuel hose going from the tank to the fuel line.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f7254dc79.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Remember when I said I let the fuel line drain up front until the tank was empty? Well, I found out the hard way the gas gauge does NOT work in this thing. I took a razor knife to cut the rock hard rubber hose by slicing it long ways so I could split it and get it off the steel nipple, as I was peeling it back, I got a face full of rotten, stale, old fuel. A tech's worst nightmare, believe me. I ran to the washroom and flushed my face and eyes out. I drained another 8 gallons or more of fuel out of that tank. Never assume a customer knows how much fuel is in the tank or that the gauge works. Another lesson reinforced. It was time to call it a frickin day. I let it drain and when I left it was just a steady drip.
I wanted to drain the tank anyway so that the new pump and system would have fresh fuel to run on and get the tune right. Tomorrow I will get the pump, primary filter, and brackets made and mounted. I also have to get 3 more feet of EFI hose for this. All in all, I'll have over 100 bucks in fuel line for this install. More pics tomorrow.

[adragon72]

Nice project mike! I can wait to see how it turns out.

[Goober]

Holy frickin update! I'm digging how in depth this write up is.

[NXcoupe]

Ok, so I left off back at the gas tank with a face full of fuel. It was drained out when I came in this morning, so I started back there. I put the EFI hose(not really necessary here as it is suction side, but what the heck I had it) on the nipple for the outlet of the tank and ran it to the fuel filter, and made sure the arrow pointed in the right direction:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351d32413.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351d4dad5.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Next, I put the fuel pump together, installing the fittings on the ends, and sliding the insulation sleeve over it. I put the pump after the filter and hooked it up to the fuel line running up to the front of the car.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351d66145.jpg

[NXcoupe]

After I held it up where I am going to mount it to, and just looking it over and rehashing my decision to the point of insanity, I decided that the hoses were too kinked and things were too tight between the filter, pump and line. So I cut it off and redid it. This works much better and there are no kinks or tight spots in the line.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351d7d0c6.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I have to go to the hardware store and pick up some stuff to finish the mounting of the fuel pump and the computer, so more on that later. I decided to go ahead and mount the O2 sensor. I didn't want to drop the exhaust fearing the bolts would break off and create a bunch more unnecessary work. So I picked a spot where the pipe goes vertical to a point and marked it for cutting. Then in the next pic, I marked the step drill bit(harbor freight) to the 7/8" step so I could drill and not go oversize. Then I drilled the hole and tapped the bung into the hole, it was a snug fit. I ground it clean and welded it in, and then mounted the sensor. Looks great. It says on the bag covering the connector not to plug it in until the computer has been programmed for what sensor we are using. So I let it hang.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351d94457.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351daad0b.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351dc1391.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351dd8250.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351def028.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Next, I let the car down and started working on the computer mounting and the wiring harness. Sat down and read the directions, then reread them again. I am confident I have a firm grasp on this now, so I move out to the bay and start digging things out of packaging and getting a sense of what goes where. Here is a pic of the computer:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b357963889.jpg

[NXcoupe]

The computer isn't very big, just a little larger than an A9L, with fewer wires. I started routing the wiring harness and plugging it in to the sensors, every sensor you need is included except the fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor, those two are optional, as well as the TFI wiring harness, that is an option as well. I plugged in the TFI harness and started plugging the main harness in as well. I put the red FRPP wires and MSD cap on it yesterday, and like the looks of those better than the old accell wires that were on it. I think people are going to have to take a double take at this when they see the hood open. I'm still contemplating how to route the wiring to hide it the best, and how to clean it up, but first things first, I had to get everything hooked up.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351e11d16.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b35794bf17.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b35797a63c.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1b351e11d16.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I know, it's messy right now, but I'm going to be thinking about that until I come back here and work on it again. Next step is mounting the computer, then running the power supply for the computer, and then hooking up the fuel pump wiring, ignition power, supply for the TFI, etc. Lots of stuff left to do but first a trip to the hardware store is in order.

[91boost]

I need to stop by the shop and take a look at this thing and its a excuse to come bullshit with ya buddy.

[331lx]

This will b a fun car

[NXcoupe]

I need to stop by the shop and take a look at this thing and its a excuse to come bullshit with ya buddy.

Do it man. I'm gonna be there working on it a bit tomorrow, picked up 60 bucks worth of stuff at the hardware store tonight, still need a few more pieces. I can't wait to hear this thing run and see the power it puts down.

[NXcoupe]

Well, got to the shop and just flat ran out of steam today. I got a T fitting to use to move the ECT sensor to a better spot, and assembled all the parts for it, then put the sensor in it. I've got pics, just need to get them on the computer and hosted. I went to Oreilly's to get the last two fittings after I left and they only had one of them, I'm going to try the other two this week to get the last fitting I need to make the return for the fuel system. Tomorrow I'll get the computer mounted up and start plugging in all the harnesses. Once I get that done, hopefully I'll have the other fitting by then and get the car back up in the air and finish mounting the pump and filter, and route the return line. Getting close, I'm stoked!

[NXcoupe]

Ok, so I wasn't feelin the way the temp sensor was located, so I came up with this from the hardware store. It's going in the heater hose from the intake to the heater core.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eac2b5d.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Here it is with the temp sensor in it
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eadfee1.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Ok, so I figured it would go about here, and needed to cut some of the hose out to make room for it. Used my new MAC clamps to keep the coolant loss to a minimum.
The next pic is of it mounted and plugged in.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eb081bb.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eb25002.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Had to figure a good place to mount the computer module, knew I didn't want it to be too far out of the way, or too in your face, so I picked the inner fenderwell to mount it to. I think it blends in and looks great.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eb4240d.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f1dd6eb5eec8.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Now I've got wiring to run back to the fuel pump, wire in the ignition, hook the coil up, etc. Tomorrow I'm making the brackets to hold the fuel pump and filter, so I'll have pics of that up then.

[NXcoupe]

Got the fuel pump mounted and the ground wire ran. Looks a lot better than just hanging there, lol. Should have it running tomorrow, still have to run the return line and fuel pump power wire and the coil ground wire connected. Everything else is done. Have to move this off the dyno for Saturday, so it's done or pushed tomorrow, lol.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f2ad8cf8e5c0.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f2ad8cf6af52.jpg

[93Turbo4v]

Well, this is a pretty cool project that fell into my lap this past fall and I thought it would be something that my pepes on sbz might like to follow along with.
What I am doing is putting a holley Avenger EFI kit on a 70 Mach 1. It was originally a 351 2 bbl car, and is very far from original. It is now a 302 with an FMX transmission, and came to me not running. I got it fired and running and told the guy his holley carb was caked with gunk and needed replaced or at minimum rebuilt. He thought it over and asked if there was a way to do EFI, and I tossed out the idea of the new line of holley Avenger EFI to him. It will also work with his shaker hood, so he was all about it. I have since found out that it will also work with a ford TFI distributor so we won't have to do the electronic ignition drop in kit we were thinking about.
I am going to go step by step on the install so if anyone else ever wants to do this they can pick up a kit from me and do it all by following along.
Now, here are pics of it before I got started.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e355956.jpg

And some pics of the engine before:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e3392ce.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f0f31e31c1f4.jpg
just wounder why did they put 69 quaters on a 70 or is that a 69 with 70 front end just noticed that in the pic.

[NXcoupe]

just wounder why did they put 69 quaters on a 70 or is that a 69 with 70 front end just noticed that in the pic.
Its an 80's resto, no idea why they did what they did to it, but the scoops were welded and molded in as far as i can tell. It is a 70 model

[93Turbo4v]

Its an 80's resto, no idea why they did what they did to it, but the scoops were welded and molded in as far as i can tell. It is a 70 model
no biggy just was woundering about the 69 scoops i like the 70 quarters better but thats my liking.nice car still and nice project u have going!

[NXcoupe]

Got it running, need to change the temp sensor location back to where it was, and going to put some different plugs in it as well. I have a lot more to post up and pics and whatnot but it's late, I'm tired and I'm going home. More in the next couple days and then dyno figures after that.

[Goober]

Damn, you do great work! Like where you ended up mounting the module, looks like it could have been there from the factory way back when.

[NXcoupe]

Thanks, sorry for the delay in updates, but I have a bunch to post up. It's running fantastic now. Here's where I installed the temp sensor, it works better here, but if and when we ever pull this engine to give it some more power, I'll drill and tap another hole in the intake for the sensor. I also installed the TFI module distributor. I got one with a cast iron gear so it would work with the flat tappet hydraulic camshaft.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f19f724ceed3.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Here's the polished alternator from PA performance out of Penn. They sent a complete kit with a polished 3G alternator, dummy regulator and wiring harness. It went in with no issues, soldered the wires in, and it worked perfectly. It puts out over 14 volts and settles down into the 13 volt range after running a while. It really helped the car to run better and starts all the time now, before it was hit or miss.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f2c0434e9285.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I thought my wife put the pictures on our server, but guess not. Sorry for the tease, more tomorrow when I get them hosted and can put them up. Car starts right up, runs perfectly, got the tune right on, and the computer keeps learning on it's own, refining and dialing it in even closer automatically. It takes some work to get start up and cold start right, but after that it's pretty automatic. I added timing in and played with a/f and got it to make the most power it could. I'll post all that stuff later.

[NXcoupe]

Here I am starting to run the return line back to the tank. I decided to start at the throttle body and work my way back:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077bd0c8b.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I followed the a/c lines over to the shock tower and then routed it down behind the shock tower in between the m/c and tower:
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077be80fc.jpg

[NXcoupe]

I drilled a hole through the inner fender and then put a grommet in the hole to protect the hose from damage of course. I also drilled a smaller hole and routed the fuel pump power wire through it. It also has a grommet to protect it.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c0a9e4.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c21844.jpg

[NXcoupe]

After that I got to looking at the aircleaner and the clearance the new wide, tall cap and wires had. I didn't like what I saw and sitting the aircleaner on it revealed an issue. I needed a spacer to work on it for clearance. The original carb sat up higher than the efi throttle body does, so I determined I needed a spacer other than what came with the kit.
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c38510.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Unfortunately a lot of my pictures have disappeared, so I will kind of recap what I did and put up the finished pics.
I ran the return line in 5/16" EFI hose using EFI clamps on it, routed it parallel to the supply steel line. I used heavy duty wire tires and insulated clamps that I screwed to the sheetmetal to hold the line secure. I routed it around and back to the side of the trunk where I drilled a hole and slid the hose through it. I routed it around the gas tank to the filler neck. I drilled a hole in the filler neck and put a 45* fitting with a barbed 5/16" nipple(an absolute bitch to find), and put that into the filler neck. The bitch is you have to put the neck through the tailight panel and then screw the fitting in. Pain is an understatement. It got routed and looked nice, but don't know where the pics are of it. I'll put them up when and if I can locate them on the computer.

[NXcoupe]

The next step was to get the wires all routed and tucked so that when the hood is opened it just looked factory. I also put an MSD coil on it to replace the rusted chrome one and to give some more spark. I replaced the spark plugs with new autolites and gapped them wider for the new electronic ignition at .045". I routed the plug wires as best I could since they really aren't over the cover style wires, but it turned out neater than it was.
With all the wires tucked and routed, it's hard to tell it's EFI, which is what the owner wanted:

http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077cab2a5.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c4f6af.jpg

[NXcoupe]

With the spacer on and everything mounted correctly, the shaker looks sweet as it sticks up about 1/2" taller than before. I really liked that and the owner did as well. The next step was starting it and checking for leaks. Start up was difficult and it didn't run very well at all on the initial fire up. It was running rich, it seemed sluggish, etc. Time to sort through the bugs and dial it in.
First off, there is no spout connector to remove to set initial timing, so you have to connect a laptop with the Holley programming and look at what the timing is reading on the dashboard. Then you simply set the timing to match. I put a Summit timing tape on the balancer, although I only used about 5" of it, just enough to get the bright, easy to see numbers and marks on it. I set the timing at what the computer showed and the sluggishness went away.
But first, I need to backtrack. Before start up, you need to load the proper tune in that is supplied by Holley. It asks simple questions on the hand held interface and you just scroll and click to answer the questions. If you use std ignition instead of TFI, you are good to go. The TFI requires connecting a laptop and selecting the TFI ignition on the drop down menu. You must also tell the computer which EFI system you have, just simply select the part number.
Between the two, the hand held interface and the laptop with the software on it, I prefer the laptop. It has a lot more screens, shows the tuning tables, etc. Just all around easier to use. Just plug a mini USB into the computer and the other end into the laptop and your good to go.
After setting up the initial tune and setting the timing, it was time to work on the cold start and cranking tables. I had to pull a bunch of fuel out of the cranking tables because it was literally dumping fuel into the engine on crank start up. After I got it to start well, I got it onto the dyno and let the wideband start self tuning. It will self tune to a point while in cold enrichment, but it does not actually store these self corrections until it gets up to temperature. It is in closed loop almost the entire time it's running, so the a/f is kept where you command it. Lot's easier than a factory computer.
So after some dyno pulls, I was able to get a few more hp out of it. Starting hp was around 138 to 140 average with the carb on it. With the EFI on it and just initial base pulls it was running in the 150 range. So not bad, but I was just getting started.

[NXcoupe]

I got the computer acclimated to the engine combo and began to play with a/f ratio. They had it a little rich at wot a/f of around 12.6 or so. I changed it to 12.9 and it picked up a couple hp. I went to 13.0 and it stayed about the same. It's a good time to mention that the computer dials up and down around the target a/f, so it can be 13.2 to 12.8 depending on the rpm, etc. It goes up and down to get an average of what the target is.
Now onto the timing tuning. I got into the timing tables and datalogged a few of the pulls to see where the computer was pulling it's timing from in the tables, it has a very cool overlay feature that puts a line through all the cells you used in the datalog. So I raised the timing up some and no hp increase. Next, I lowered it from the initial setting and low and behold about 5hp increase. Yeah! So a few more degrees of playing around and several more pulls and I arrived at 165 rwhp, which was a substantial increase over the starting hp. I know, I know, that's lame power for a mach 1, but he was told a lot of bs about what the engine had in it. I had to be the bearer of bad news and inform him this was probably an early 70's truck motor. It peaks power at 4600 rpm, so def not an hp engine combo.
After the dyno runs it was time to work on the cold enrichment tables. The tables had WAY too much fuel enrichment in them, but you don't want to fool with these until the base learning is finished by driving it or dyno'ing it like it's being driven. I did both, and the amount of fuel being pulled out of the tune to achieve stoich was incredible. Some cells had close to 30% being pulled. So once that had stabilized(you can watch the learning table as you drive it on the dyno), it was time to let it sit over night and play with the enrichment tables. After a few days of adjustments, it was damn near perfect to me. But now it's in the hands of the owner and I'll make any changes he notes while he has it. After all, it's not about what I like, it's about the owner being happy with the results. He got in it, it fired right up and he drove it away without it chugging or stalling. He was happy, it was the first time since he bought the car he could actually drive it around normally without it leaking or stalling, or dead battery.
We are looking at doing a bunch more projects to this, and I'll get more pics when it comes back and post them in here to update and make this a complete how to thread.
All in all, it is a slick system and it all works well to create a really fun car to drive with none of the drawbacks of a carb'd system.
Here's the finished pics, all shiney and ready for it's maiden voyage home!
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c670c3.jpg
http://www.daytonstangboard.com/forum/imagehosting/464f65077c94b90.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Next time it's in, I'll get some video of it running and such. I was pretty consumed with working through issues with this and getting all the details perfect on it. I must have gone over this car a dozen times just double checking everything and correcting any little details I found could be improved on. The tuning was a huge learning curve and I really appreciated him allowing me to do this job for him. The first one is always the toughest. I know the software in and out now.

[NXcoupe]

Ok, so Phase two is in da house!!! He has ordered the Steeroids rack and pinion kit that will work with his stock column and bolts in. Can't wait to get it back in and do this. He's also looking at wilwood 4 wheel disks, a coil over front kit, the same 4 link kit from Heidts I put under the 68, and some other mods.
Newsflash!!! He's just sent me an email and is buying my spare, fresh shortblock and the TFS heads, rockers and pushrods. We're going to swap it all and back it up with a DirtyDog 4R70W. It is gonna be a bad ass 70 Mach 1 for SURE!!! He's also looking at 17" Magnum 500 wheels to go on it as well. Can't wait to start on phase 2!

[Goober]

Woot woot! Sounds like this bad boy will be set up.