Project 'Ol Red

[jeep45238]

It started a few years ago with a bone stock, well maintained and cared for 2003 Mustang GT.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/2011-04-23_17-30-27_956.jpg

It stayed stock for a while, and then I found that my gas tank was leaking. It was the first money I spent on the car besides gasoline.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/2011-08-01_09-11-51_151.jpg

Over the years I put pretty much every bolt on except headers. Because hey, those are a pain in the butt to install. It's still a fun car to drive, but it got ho-hum after I got used to it after a while.

Then I got 4.10's and subframe connectors installed, which to date (along with the tune), are the only things I haven't done myself on the car. The exhaust is all stainless, has a 78mm throttle body and plenum, and is enjoying the streets on Maximum Motorsports lower control arms with Tokiko blue shocks/struts, H&R Super Sport springs, and MM camber plates.

It put down numbers I was happy with, and still am - it's perfectly useable.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/FB_IMG_13407486181238269.jpg

[jeep45238]

Buuuuuut I found a good deal on some parts.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20130820_212538_325_zps385257f9.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20130820_212547_022_zpsd2920dc5.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20130820_212556_269_zpsb1b824fd.jpg
Hiding in there is a water/air intercooler setup, Autometer C2 gauges in the gauge pod, a Boost-A-Pump, Ford 42# injectors, SCT 90mm MAF, Anderson ceramic coated powerpipe, and various small parts/wiring.

Obviously, this is the key part:
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20130817_222744_158_zpscfc4af2f.jpg

I spent about 4 hours chasing the threads on this after I got it, and I'll have to heli-coil one hole for the throttle body, and get a stuck bolt out of a fuel rail boss. Other than that, it's mint with 700 miles on it. It currently has a 9 psi pulley, but I have a 6 psi one coming in. Later on I may up it, but for right now, I'll stick to a 6psi setup and keep the durability up. Plus this will be my first supercharged V8, and I fully intend on getting used to it compared to what a lot of other people do - blowing engines, transmissions, or totaling the car.

I should be getting long tubes in this week as well, along with clutch goodies coming in Thursday afternoon and some work starting on Friday. Kenne Bell should be mailing in the missing thermostat housing and some supercharger oil this week as well. I was quoted $125 for the EGR/DPFE bracket.......yeah, I'll make my own for that price.

A lot of guys are jumping ship to 4v modular motors, but I decided to stay with a 2v for a couple reasons.
1) Cheap parts - price anything for a GT, then do the same for a Cobra
2) Parts availability
3) Cheap replacement engines
4) I like the noise better

So, here begins my project thread. Stay tuned!

[Kevin1989]

hell yes that will be a fun little street car for sure

[cyah92]

Good upgrade there. Can't wait to see the new numbers. Definitely going. To be fun to drive..

[4n_eatr]

Subscribing! That is some sexy looking equipment!

[jeep45238]

Irony here - I got everything you see on Saturday. I found out today that I'm having a dorm inspection by my commander and superintendent tomorrow.

The conversation about 4 foot tall piles of car parts in a small military dorm room should be interesting.

[chris91]

Hell yeah! Nice pile o parts indeed! I think if I ever go FI it'll be a KB as well. Which one is that? You're gonna love the way it sounds with the pro chamber too. Mine sounds killer with the Bassani exhaust.

[rtvickers]

Nice project Mike. Cant wait to see it done. Sounds like another Poker Run coming. Lol. Your parents are thinking about a blower also I think. They will fall in love all over again with their car again. Good luck with the build. Let me know if I can help.

[jeep45238]

Well, I'll be tearing into the car on Friday afternoon to get a head start on the clutch job before the hobby shop kicks me out. If you want to help change out a clutch on Saturday let me know.

Otherwise I'm going to get a few spools of wire, solder, iron, helping hands, heat shrink, crimp connectors, wire strippers, and conduit this evening, have some wiring work to do!

[rtvickers]

I'm going to a concert on Saturday in Franklin. What time was you planning on starting.

[jeep45238]

Chris, it's a 2.1L unit.

Tony,10:00 AM, when the hobby shop on base opens up. I'll send you a message with my number. You'll need somebody in the car with you that has a .mil ID, but I have two cars on base and don't have a problem meeting you right off base if you'd like to check out the setup (just make sure you have a valid driver's license). Plus I'll need to get downtown before noon to get the flywheel resurfaced - you can come for a ride in the Beast (Saturn SL2). So far, I haven't found a car that can hold a candle to it's acceleration (or lack thereof).

[jeep45238]

Swung by 'ol Harbor Freight today since all of my tools are an hour south, and these will predominantly be one-time use tools (if they fail, oh well).

Grabbed a bunch of electrical stuff and a 4 post trailer wiring kit, it was the cheapest way to get 100 feet of wire.

The hole for the TB has been opened up to a 7mmx1.0 thread due to the previous owner's hulk-like installation methods. I then turned to the snapped bolt in the fuel rail boss.

To give you a background, it's a 5mmx1.0 thread bolt that's snapped off - should be easy right? Well, every bolt - every single bolt, even the small 5mm ones, had red lock tite on them. I wonder why it snapped off.....

I started from the top and didn't get anywhere with left hand drill bits, so I flipped it over and started from the bottom with a bolt extractor (yeah, I know). Imagine that, it shattered after moving the bolt 2 revolutions or so. Ok.....flipped it over and tried again from the top side with my bits. I was able to get the 1/16th through deep enough to hit what remained of the extractor, and stepped up a size sucessfully. The next one though - it caught about half way down and snapped off.

So now I've got hardened steel on both sides of this bugger, and I don't have torches or impacts (think a tiny college dorm room for the area I'm doing this work in). I also lack punches, dead blows, hammers, and pretty much all of the usual tricks to get these things out.

Any suggestions?


On another note, my headers, thermostat housing, EGR bracket, FPDM, and clutch kit should be in tomorrow. Looks like it's time to go to Ford and get some exhaust manifold brackets and some copper RTV.

[rtvickers]

Mike, If you want to make the trip to Newport you can bring it by our shop after work and get them out. You'll have access to pretty much anything. Welder, torch, plasma cutter, and air tools. Im off Friday to help Jon move. Just let me know.

Tommy V.

[jeep45238]

Thank you, that's very gracious of you. I won't be able to take you up on that offer this weekend or next, but I might be able to swing by during the first week of September someitme.

[rtvickers]

Yeah that's fine. Just get with me a day or so before.

[redfirepearlgt]

I'll take partial credit for luring the young man to the F/I side of life. Can't wait to see that thing get up and go Mike. Guess your dad is next? LOL!

[jeep45238]

Yeah, you and Tony can take partials - but the guy who sold me everything at damn good prices gets a good chunk or the credit too!

That said, about 85 pounds of parts showed up today. I'm looking forward to tearing out the transmission tomorrow!

[rtvickers]

Yeah, you and Tony can take partials

Tony=Tommy if your referring to me. Lol Don't point the finger at me.

So your doing the clutch tomorrow?

[jeep45238]

My memory fades quickly unfortunately, sorry!

I'm going to start working on it when I get off of PT tomorrow (Friday), I'm hoping I'll be able to get the transmission out since we'll have a lift, air tools, and a trans jack. I also anticipate no problems with parts since I bought every bellhousing bolt, pressure plate bolts/pins, flywheel bolt, pivot ball, spacer plate, Ford TOB/pilot bearings, and a pretty good clutch (which also has TOB/pilot in the kit), I have a half roll of shop towels and three cans of brake cleaner. I'd rather have stuff I don't need than need it and not have it....

I forgot to snag some grease today though, so I'm going to try and grab some during lunch tomorrow.

Saturday I'd like to get the flywheel off early and get by american drivetrain/clutch to have it ground (they close at noon), and get it back together by the time the hobby shop closes (6pm I think). I'm not worried about getting the long tubes and prochamber installed this week, they may wind up waiting until after the blower is on depending how everything pans out.

[redfirepearlgt]

Glad to hear you are making use of the on base perks which is more than I can say I did when I was your age and enlisted. looking forward to seeing this thing come together.

[jeep45238]

I know how much it sucks to pull transmissions, swap engines and clutches on jackstands - I also know how much it sucks to use cherry pickers on gravel to do it to!

May as well use lifts while I have access to them in my opinion. It stinks that I don't have my tools up here, but hey, at least there ARE tools here, and it's better equipped than my last base.

Tommy, I'm going to call the place that's doing my flywheel today and see if they can remove this bolt. I really do appreciate the offer, and will take you up on it if a local shop can't get it out, but for the fuel/time cost to drive there and back for a bolt it's pretty aggrevating.

The only thing I don't have that I know I'll need is a 3/8" universal joint and about 2-3 feet of extentions. I'm hoping they have them at the shop. They do have 1/2" drive units but I don't know if it will clear to get to the top bellhousing bolts.

[slow86fiveoh]

Pull the top 2 bolts out with a flex head ratchet wrench if available I think it's easier from the top to get those 2

[jeep45238]

It's GI tools - unless it's a flight line, it's not likely to have a good tool setup.

[4n_eatr]

Actually they aren't bad. MAC(gearwrench) and Snap-On stuff. Not a bad selection of tools in the "big" box that they have liked up, either.

[jeep45238]

Right, the quality is good, but if you need more than 12" extentions, u joints, flex head ratcheting wrenches, etc., it's not likely to be there.

But, for basic handtools, they have what you need to take care of most jobs.

That said, I spent lunch break getting exhaust/intake manifold gaskets, transmission fluid, a U joint, 3/8" extentions, gasket scraper/blades, rtv, masking tape, and i'm sure i'm forgetting something.

I'll have to buy a loaf of bread tonight from the commisary.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkRmKWktW70

[redfirepearlgt]

Right, the quality is good, but if you need more than 12" extentions, u joints, flex head ratcheting wrenches, etc., it's not likely to be there.

But, for basic handtools, they have what you need to take care of most jobs.

That said, I spent lunch break getting exhaust/intake manifold gaskets, transmission fluid, a U joint, 3/8" extentions, gasket scraper/blades, rtv, masking tape, and i'm sure i'm forgetting something.

I'll have to buy a loaf of bread tonight from the commisary.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkRmKWktW70

Now that s cool. I knew you can use bread in copper tubing to sweat joints in (in the event the mains valve will not stop all water flow), and afterward simply open the valve on the water main, remove any strainer form the faucet and turn it on and the bread will desolve and blow out, but never saw that used. That is awesome. I like it.

[Gearhead]

Right, the quality is good, but if you need more than 12" extentions, u joints, flex head ratcheting wrenches, etc., it's not likely to be there.



I'll have to buy a loaf of bread tonight from the commisary.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkRmKWktW70

You can also use wet toilet paper or mayo if you don't have any grease. Wasn't sure if you were kidding or not, but both will work....

[jeep45238]

Yes, but bread is so much simpler to clean up. That said, got the fly wheel out, I'll be waiting outside the machine shop when they open, and will be headed back to base waiting on the shop to open.

And screw the top bolt on the starter, that took almost as long as the bell housing bolts.

[SN95N/A]

Great project man! Good luck with it.

[jeep45238]

If anybody in the Dayton area is looking for a place to resurface flywheels, and other drivetrain problems, I would highly recommend American Drivetrain and Clutch on Troy St.

Every other shop was quoting me 1-2 days (yeah, right), and sounded like they were attempting excuses to NOT do the job over the phone. Tim (the owner) answered my phone call during lunch and he told me it wouldn't be a problem if I showed up at 11:45 on Saturday (they close at noon), they'd still get me taken care of while I wait for $30.

I showed up when they opened and they had me out the door in maybe 20 minutes, including the usual small town shop bs talk that I've come to know and love. There was also a gentleman with a truck that came in with problems, and they hopped in the truck for a little drive and pulled it in to figure out exactly what the problem was - no appointments, nothing.

I know who I'll be using for anything I need while I'm here, that's for sure.

[4n_eatr]

I had them rebalance a drive shaft and install a new yoke a few years ago for my Chevelle. They told me to go grab something to eat and when I got back it would be done, lol. They do good work. The only issue I've ever had from them wasn't really even their fault. I needed a new bearing retainer for a t-5 and their computer said they had one in the warehouse but they ended up not having it. Like I said, not their fault but they do good, quick work. Glad to hear they got you in and out quick!

[jeep45238]

On the road again - time for a break in period of 750 miles!

[2007ShelbyCobra]

awesome. Pics of the finished product?

[jeep45238]

I was on a time crunch since the shop is closed on Sundays now, and didn't stop to take any pictures.

But basically, there was a trans jack that had a jackstand on it under my harmonic balancer, a trans jack under the trans, and me and a buddy tearing at the car and cussing at the top starter bolt and the sheet metal wiring harness holder at the top of the bell housing.

It took us just about the same time to get that starter bolt out as it did all of the bellhousing bolts, including the top 2. The sheet metal wiring harness holder kept falling down between the bellhousing and block, and we had to pull the trans out 3 times after mating it when we discovered it was wedged in there AFTER torqing bolts (hey, it's loose, we're good to go! not.).

Firstly, I would love to use the engineer that decided to put the top starter bolt int aht location as a punching bag. If it's a team, it looks like I'm going to get real good at boxing real soon.

The picture you would have seen from the first night would have been my transmission on the floor with an H pipe next to it and the stock clutch kit on the bench. My TOB was making an AWESOME noise when it was cold, and now it's silent :-) The after photo would be my car off the lift and on the road - I've got 720 more miles for the break in procedure. For those wondering, the shop handed me a pilot bearing attachment on a slide hammer - it only suceeded to do nothing. Bread, a 1/2" extention, 10mm socket, and a hammer popped it right out after about 3-4 minutes, and cleanup involved a flat head screwdriver - the bread popped right out in two compressed discks and the cavity was clean as a whistle.

The new clutch is heavier than the stocker, probably twice as heavy. However, it's also stupid smooth and is easy to slip on the start, so it still has some good street manners. Not bad for a clutch that's rated for 498 lb ft of torque at the rear tires (622 flywheel).

I was having my celebration beer last night after going to the Buckeye Nationals and grabbed a crescent wrench to start tackling my long tube problem. Essentially, the previous owner of all this gear thought tighter is better, red locktite should be on everything, and red RTV goes where there are leaks - instead of follwing torque specs, using red or blue dependant upon bolt size, and NOT where it says thread sealant, and fixing ball/socket exhaust flanges.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/Photoon8-25-13at943AM2_zps1b9d0fba.jpg
This is the top side. Normal, no carbon, good sealing.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/Photoon8-25-13at943AM_zpsdbbd5781.jpg
This is the bottom side. Leaking, carbon everywhere, blew out the RTV.

The ball is dented where the carbon is, so I took a crecent wrench and was able to move the edge out and get it more or less spot on. However, the socket seals on the curve part, which is still flat. So, I'm about to take a trip to good ol harbor freight and buy a cheap ball peen hammer and see if I can remember my days of metalworking.

The headers will probably be installed somewhere around September 5th.

Tonight (after studying) - wiring harness for my gauges!

[jeep45238]

Got a two packages in the mail today.

Kenne Bell sent me a new tstat housing, a fresh bottle of oil, and a 6 pound pulley. Time to fabricate a pulley change wrench.

I also got two FPDM units in the mail. Now I get to make a harness to run twin fuel pumps. I'm going to head to a junk yard to yank the pigtails I need, along with a fuel pump/hat so I can modify everything to run two pumps without any down time on my car.

The next thing on the list for the install will be the long tube headers, that'll probably happen during the middle of next week.

[redfirepearlgt]

Outstanding Mike. Sounds like a great project. I am jealous. You make me wish I was 20 something again. Stay focused. If you need a hand some Saturday and I can get on the base to help let me know. I owe ya. Glad to help out as I can while learning something as well.

[jeep45238]

You don't owe me anything.

Do you still have access to bases?

[redfirepearlgt]

You don't owe me anything.

Do you still have access to bases?

I doubt it. I have been out of the military loop since 1993. I've been on other bases for business including WPAFB, but that was with vendor access in each case. So I would likely need to be signed in escort required if I were guessing. I have an old expired nonactive duty reserve ID card but it would not be recognized by anyone these days. They would think its a fake. LOL! Its 20 years old now.

[jeep45238]

It wouldn't be a problem getting you on - I've got two sets of wheels!

[redfirepearlgt]

It wouldn't be a problem getting you on - I've got two sets of wheels!

Well like said. IF you need a hand one Saturday (not this one I am going to a family reunion) let me know. I'll point the business end of Oscar toward 75N and head up your way. Just PM me more than a day ahead of time so I can plan for it.

[jeep45238]

I'll be headed out east this weekend for 2 days of long distance shooting, then swinging into the Cincinnati area for my birthday, and back up to base mid-week. I'm hoping to have the long tubes installed when i get back on base, and start fabbing up what I need.

If I get lucky I can find somebody to do a starter tune and it'll be a bolt-in affair, but I know I'll need another person to help get the blower on the engine.

[rtvickers]

Sounds like your making good progress Mike. Keep up the good work. After this weekend I'll be available to help out. I have to work the Fireworks this weekend.

[jeep45238]

Thanks. Hopefully I'll be able to install the headers during my leave, so I won't be rushed for time.

[jeep45238]

Car is up on the rack, K member is on the ground, exhaust is on the ground, the EGR nut is loosened up and the manifolds are ready to come off tomorrow morning. I'm debating about doing an EGR delete to be honest - I'm 50/50 right now.

Outside of the percieved benefit of no exhaust gases in the intake, and a cleaner looking engine bay, does anybody have any acutal gains from the delete?

I know that it reduces emmissions by reducing combustion chamber temps, which sounds like it would also help with reducing chances of detonation. No, I don't care about emissions, I ripped all 4 cats off my car a while back.

[jeep45238]

Got the EGR on the long tubes and everything except the calipers back on today. I would have been finished if I wasn't stupid and trying the same thing for 3 hours to get the EGR nut on the header. Oh well, lesson learned.

That said, the car went from having long tubes installed and everything else off the car, to the K member, cat back, mid pipe, steering rack, etc. back on in 45 minutes when they announced "shop closes in 45." I turned the key over to hear the new music and was greeted with a click.

So, Advance opens at 0730, going to get the battery charged or replaced then. I'll be ordering a new fuel pump next pay day, and I'm hoping to finally find a machine shop that will remove this stuck bolt before the month is over. Then onto the real fun!

[jeep45238]

Well, she's all buttoned up and on the road. Sorry for not taking any pictures, but working by yourself and trying to get it finished up ASAP in a garage that isn't your own tends to lend itself to grease, dirt, blood, and oil instead of taking pictures.

To anybody that is contemplating this - do it. Yes, it is just as, if not more, difficult than swaping out your clutch. Yes, it has some very tight bolts in very tight places. Yes, it can be marginal in terms of gain for power, but if you can get them second hand it is very much worth it.

Low end is more responsive as is mid range, though the upper range suffers a bit. It hasn't been tuned yet, and I suspect that with the O2 sensors being further away and modification to the fuel/spark trim that the car would have even more pick up than what it has now.

The sound - wow. The car has a deeper more mellow noise. Part of this is from the long tubes, and part from the mid pipe. The offroad Mac Prochamber has given the car a tone that is hard to describe. It sounds much quieter at all RPM's inside the cabin and has absolutely no drone inside the car. At idle it sounds like a mild catted H pipe. Give it moderate gas and it sings like a X pipe. Mash it and the car screams. Engine brake and it hums along, absolutely no popping like what many hear with X pipes and straight through mufflers. All this through Flowmaster Super 44's.

The verdict - I'm keeping this setup. I'll be selling my old setup if anybody is interested (which sounds great in my opinion, but is more....violent sounding than what I now have).

[redfirepearlgt]

good job. No exhaust leaks? Fantastic.

[chris91]

You're making me want LT's now. My car NEEDS them anyway though with the heads and cams I have. I agree with you though, the Prochamber makes these cars sound wicked. Everyone thats heard my car compliments the sound. I wont go with anything other than a prochamber from now on personally.

[jeep45238]

Thanks Chad. No leaks after 50 or so miles on the stock studs. But the devil is in the details, as the a/c liquid line is just barely above the primary tubes. That bugger popped the other night when I shut my trunk after getting back on base. It was fine earlier when I had my a/c running, but not with it off apparently. So, time for a new tube bent up for extra clearance sometime.

Additionally, my fuel pump hs been ordered. Now to get my gauge pod wired up, and hopefully get everything installed along with my fuel pump, and maybe a/c line next time I get a chance.

Chris, if you think you may need a new clutch within oh.....25-50K miles, do that before doing long tubes. I don't even have a finger's clearance between the headers/trans and the headers/chassis. It is more consuming getting all the stock nuts/studs seperated and getting the k member spot on than dealing with the trans. You'll want to make sure you zip tie the O2 sensor extentions to the transmission to keep them from melting as well. If you're keeping the EGR system you'll also want to make sure you remove the EGR nut from the EGR valve itself, and install it on the driver's side header when the header is loose. Then either go top side and hook it back into the valve, or tighten down the header, remove the valve, get the tube hooked up, and then line up the EGR valve mounting bolts to the plenum and get those started by hand. Otherwise you aren't likely to get everything lined up (I wasted about 3.5 hours fighting this because I had the header bolted on completely at first).

I'm incredibly glad I have access to a lift. I would NOT recommend going these on jackstands.

Also a little hint on the transmission. There's a sheetmetal plate that holds a wiring harness at the top of the bellhousing you need to pull to get to the top bellhousing bolts. It will make getting your transmission back in a pain in the ass. After sliding it up/in 4 times and having that plate free, then suddenly caught between the two I said screw it and ripped it out. After I did that it went in and was done immediately.

[jeep45238]

Did some phone calls today after an early dismissal from work due to some serious issues that kept us from being able to do work. HUA :bigthumb

I started making some phone calls and every machine shop was scared to touch the broken bolt in my supercharger. But - they were all helpful in making a phone tree for me to find somebody that was willing and able. Thank heavens for EDM machines. I should have the blower back next week with all fuel rail bolts opened up and ready to rock.

There's one essential part to the puzzle that I got in a day or so ago. A nice new 320lph fuel pump :) This should be more than enough to feed the car. I'll revisit the fuel system after it's put together and install a second pump for redundancy's sake. This, in addition to the second fuel pump driver module (basically a mini computer that powers the fuel pumps in the returnless system), will make sure that if there is a failure in a fuel pump or module the other will be able to take over completely without any issues.

In the mean time, I've kept busy today. The previous owner of this gear, while nice, was a nuckle dragger mechanically speaking. And yes, this includes the gauge setup. The wiring was hodgepodge with scotchlocks and looked like it would fail with the slightest bit of vibration. The nylon tubing for the boost gauge was crushed in multiple places. So, I'm willing to bet that he had a few issues with that. It's a shame, as they really are quality gauges, just a crappy previous installation.

I went through and made a properly soldered up harness for it, and am about to head out to Home Depot for some new tubing and new ferrel. I'd like to get this put on this weekend, which will take another step out of the process. With a wire coat hanger and a rubber grommet and I should be good to go, and snake the wideband wire down to the driver's side header.

And for those wondering, yes there are female-male connections underneath the heat shrink to allow for future maintenence or removal if needed. yes, the wire colors are not standardized, but that's because the cheapest way I found wire was to buy a 25 foot 4 prong wire harness for a trailer at harbor freight - 100 feet of 22 gauge wire for $6 is hard to beat.

[redfirepearlgt]

Being single does have its advantages. Hope you get it done soon.

[jeep45238]

Buying second hand big ticket items helps a lot too!

[redfirepearlgt]

Buying second hand big ticket items helps a lot too!

So does working on the car on weekends and not chasing skirts at the local night clubs LOL!!!!

[jeep45238]

Went out in the old Ford today to build a soap box derby car for the Combined Federal Campaign, and when I went to leave the car make a single loud clunk from the solenoid engaging each time, but no start.

Sucessfully push started the car without an issue. I'm hope it's not the starter since the alternator went back a little bit ago, and the battery is going on three years old. That may have just been the last straw. Cables are tight, and there was no indication of lighting dimming during the starting attempt, plus no rapid clicking noises at all. I think I might have to get to the starter unfortunately.

The hobby shop is closed down now so I don't have a means to work on cars until this government mess gets going again,

[4n_eatr]

Loose terminal on the battery? Happened to mine when I first got it. Turned out to be a cracked neg terminal. The bolt would tighten down, but it wasn't tight on the post.

[jeep45238]

I gave them both a good grab and shake, couldn't get anything to move - I also don't keep tools in the Mustang since it's proven to be much, much more reliable than anything I've ever owned in the past.

After we finish up the soap box car tomorrow I'm going to pop off the terminals, clean them up, and see what happens. One big clunk is all I get, so I know the drive is engaging, but the motor isn't turning over.

That said, I do have my supercharger back from the EDM shop with standard 5mm threads in there. We'll see how it holds up. I noticed that there was some oil in the intake tract by the air temp sensor, probably from the previous owner running a PVC system and no catch can. I plan on popping the bottom off and giving it a good cleaning/oil removal.

I also ordered a new gauge pod since the one I got with the kit only fits 99-02; in 03 Ford added a bunch of foam to the pillar trim for improved crash ratings, and it sticks out a lot more.

[jeep45238]

I popped open the blower last night to clean out the plenum. I had it stored at an angle, then flipped it upside down to tap a jacked hole for a coil's hold down bolt, and saw engine oil coming out of one of the ports where the air intake temperature sensor is. More than likely the previous owner didn't run a catch can.

Either way, I didn't want to start pumping this crud into my engine, so out it came.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131006_150922_199_zps557dbced.jpg

Believe it ir not that was after wiping it down. The previous owner popped his engine in 700 miles - hard to believe he had that much oil sucked up in that short period of time.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131006_151007_853_zpsbe706908.jpg

I then started to pop out the intercooler. I stopped after I pulled out one bolt and saw that the next bolt was rounded off from the factory. No sense in going any further and getting an ugly suprise, so I reassembled it and tossed on the throttle body. Yesterday I got a notification that I have a package to pic up, so hopefully it's the new gauge pod waiting for me.

[jeep45238]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131108_175340_258_zpsa97101a8.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131108_182218_305_zps43da3754.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131107_183330_142_zps39f5caab.jpg

The Only Things Left Is To Get A Starter Tune, Install The Blower, Run The Line For The Boost Gauge, And Get It On Rollers.

I Found Someone Local That Wants To Trade Rear Axles, So Thats Good News For The Gear Problem!

[rtvickers]

Looks like some good progress Mike. Congrats. Cant wait to see the numbers.

[jeep45238]

Talked To Adam TodAy And I Should Be Having A TuNe Headed MY Way Shortly.

That Was Enough Incentive To Start Working On The Car After Work.

Off Came The Intake Manifold, With A DiNner Break Thrown In There.

Now It'sTransferring The Fuel Rails Over,The Sensors Over And Lowering The Supercharger On.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131112_180428_107_zpsda3dbb22.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131112_183522_803_zps2378d433.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131112_183539_622_zpsf675f0dd.jpg


Please Excuse Funky Sentences, My Phone Is Acting up.

[jeep45238]

I wish I had pictures, but I dropped my phone and destroyed the display making it useless.

A lot of work has been done in the past day or so. Blower is on, vacuum lines ran, wiring done - just have to clamp the heat exchangers onto the back of the blower, drop in the air intake, run the boost line to the gauge, put the belt on, and load the starter tune.

[chris91]

Nice!!!!!!

[4n_eatr]

I was wondering what happened to you, lol.

[redfirepearlgt]

I wish I had pictures, but I dropped my phone and destroyed the display making it useless.

A lot of work has been done in the past day or so. Blower is on, vacuum lines ran, wiring done - just have to clamp the heat exchangers onto the back of the blower, drop in the air intake, run the boost line to the gauge, put the belt on, and load the starter tune.

Cool then take it to Adam at S/M Motorsports to get it tuned.

[jeep45238]

Cool then take it to Adam at S/M Motorsports to get it tuned.

Adam has emailed me a starter tune, now it's just coordinating and finding a time when he's available and I can take leave.


I was wondering what happened to you, lol.

Yeah, I can receive text messages and phone calls, but only make phone calls from the phone I have at the moment. I'm working on finding a reasonably priced replacement right now, then a bite to eat and working on the car between bouts of rain.

I've never had an intake or air filter so big I can't fit it through the hole in the inner fender, this should be an interesting day.

[jeep45238]

After going back through everything, I got inside and put the key in the ignition.

And sat for what seemed like 10 minutes running through everything in my head.

I cranked the key and after a little hesitation it fired right up. I have a few issues that I need to fix, but one that I'm scratching my head about (I'll cover that last).

-Water/air IC pump to heat exchanger hose is kinked, so I need to get that taken care off before I find out if the pump works. As of right now the coolant in the resivior isn't flowing, so it might be the hose, or the pump isn't getting power. I'm going to start with the obvious (hose) and go from there.
-Vacuum leak from the driver's side PCV hose at the rear of the supercharger (hose clamp should fix it)
-Loud whine after a few minutes of idle - I torqued the idler pullies to spec and it's dang loud now. I dug through the previous owner's threads and found one where he had this issue, and solved it by moving the driver's side idler pulley in one bolt hole and forcing the belt over the pulley. Apparently KB offers rubber idler pullies to reduce this, I'm going to have to look into that.
-The battery's been out of the car for over a day, and my wideband is showing that it's a solid 22.4 AFR. I'm sure that it needs to be
recalibrated.



Regarding the spark plug, 6 point and 12 point sockets won't grab on removing. They do grab if I set the ratchet to tighten. Whoever changed
the plugs last time probably used a 12 point and jacked it up, and it's my headache now. Do you know of any tricks to get a socket to stay on? It's the driver's rearmost plug, all the other ones came out easy peasy.

[redfirepearlgt]

Way to go Mike. Glad you are getting blown for the first time. It's addictive. But unlike NO2 you have no need to keep hunting up your local supplier every week. Can't wait to see the numbers that 2V makes. I would be willing to wager 420RWHP minimum @ 7 psi. More if you have a smaller pulley.

[jeep45238]

The previous owner was pushing 370hp and 420lbft at 8.8 pounds (smaller pulley). However, his torque table fell off stupid quick, and he had misfire issues amongst other things going on I'm willing to bet, as he popped his motor within 700 miles in the 2 years he had the kit installed. After digging through a bunch of his postings I'm pretty sure that he simply had a bad tune and was ignorant of it.

I didn't have a chance to look at it today, and won't tomorrow either - I'm hoping that I'll get back to base at a reasonable hour Wednesday and will be able to work on it a little bit then.

[4n_eatr]

Way to go Mike. Glad you are getting blown for the first time. It's addictive.

BAHAHAHAHA! I think I just pee'd a little
Oh God I need to grow up.....

Anyways, cant wait to hear this beast in person! I'm assuming there will be video of the dyno run? :)



:popcorn:

[redfirepearlgt]

BAHAHAHAHA! I think I just pee'd a little
Oh God I need to grow up.....

Anyways, cant wait to hear this beast in person! I'm assuming there will be video of the dyno run? :)



:popcorn:

U funny boy! LOL!

[rtvickers]

BAHAHAHAHA! I think I just pee'd a little
Oh God I need to grow up.....

Anyways, cant wait to hear this beast in person! I'm assuming there will be video of the dyno run? :)



:popcorn:

Do you remember your first BJ?

[4n_eatr]

Do you remember your first BJ?

ummm... I plead the fifth...

[redfirepearlgt]

Do you remember your first BJ?

Well I got my first Black Jack at about age 12 while playing it for the first time on an Atari Video Arcade game you plug into the TV...

Oh...You mean B.J....the other BJ. Yeah, I ate Blueberry Jelly for the first time it seems when I was about 4 or 5...WHAT??? You didn't mean Blue Berry Jelly? Black Berry?NO?? OH... Crap!!!! OH NOW I GET IT BJ. As in BJ Thomas. I remember when Rain Drops Keep Falling on my Head was a big hit back the early ....That's not it either? Billy Joel Piano Man? Well if that ain't it I haven't got a clue what you mean by BJ then. I give up.

[rtvickers]

ummm... I plead the fifth...

Your no fun. You ruined the joke.

[jeep45238]

The WBO2 sensor is disconnected right now, and I won't get back until late tomorrow night as well so it'll be calibrated then. As of right now it's throwing 4 codes for reading rich/lean on both banks, sensor one on each, not switching. I don't know if it's bad O2 sensors, if it's running insanely rich, etc.. yet. I'll see if I have a vac. leak tomorrow night as well - it stumbles quite a bit on start up and struggles to get to around 500-600 rpm, then kicks to 1200 or so and holds steady and slowly lowers to around 1000RPM.

I also have a weird noise coming from the belt drive after it starts to warm up a little bit. It sounds nearly stock except for the wooshing air from the intake at first, then it gets a stupid loud whining noise. It sounds like the noise stops when the belt stops, but I haven't been able to grab somebody to kill the engine with me watching to verify this. The idler pullies have a lot of wrap on the blower pulley, and are one spot away from being unable to get the belt installed. Oil level is good. The previous owner mentioned this briefly and stated he had the belt so tight he had to force it on with a screwdriver, and then the noise went away (since the kit was new). The pullies are steel, non-essentric. This doesn't seem right - any ideas?

Is this the nature of the beast until it gets warmed up, or do you think something else is going on? This didn't occur prior to the install.

I'm hoping to get to Lowes tomorrow for some copper pipe and attempt the spark plug tomorrow night if I get the chance (http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines/406154-socket-wont-engage-spark-plug-solution.html)

I don't know when I'll be able to fix the heat exchanger-pump hose, but that's the last thing I plan on fixing since everything else is up top and easily accessible for the most part.

[redfirepearlgt]

Double check to make sure you did not cross your O2 connections. This has happened to other builds and the symptom is as you describe because the engine is getting sensor feedback for one bank but correcting for the other which results in loss of PID loop control which can be characteristic of this.

[jeep45238]

I'll double check it when I get it in the air, but I didn't have this prior to or after the long tube install. The long tube install was the last time I messed with the O2 sensors (but definately a good thing to check, and one I hadn't thought of!).

[redfirepearlgt]

I'll double check it when I get it in the air, but I didn't have this prior to or after the long tube install. The long tube install was the last time I messed with the O2 sensors (but definately a good thing to check, and one I hadn't thought of!).

Gotcha. Thought you had done all this work before ever turning the key. So that kills that. Narie a mind.

[4n_eatr]

Your no fun. You ruined the joke.

you're*
(You're welcome)

[rtvickers]

Oops. I didn't know that I was taking a grammar test. Sorry Mr. Wallace. It will not happen again.

[redfirepearlgt]

oh no not grammar patrol again...

[jeep45238]

I sent Adam the same email and he explained a few things. The idler pullies are steel and have a glazed look where the belt rides, so next time I start it up I'm going to try and add some baby powder when it starts makign the noise and see if that has any impact. If it does I'm probably going to take them to the shop and blast the pullies. I'm thinking that the belt is just sliding on the face once it gets a bit warm, making an awesome sound.

I just got back from a day on the road and plugged in the WBO2 sensor after it had been sitting unplugged in the exhaust pipes for 24 hours to air out and calibrate in free air. I calibrated it, and got it to catch after it calibrated. The engine is holding a steady 20 inches of vac.. My AFR is hovering around 19-20:1, way too lean, and explains the slow/hesitant start (not enough fuel).

I don't know how to datalog, and I'd like to do that before limping the car down to Adam. Honestly, I know most folks would freak out right now, but considering he's writing stuff from scratch without having seen the car before and no datalogs, no problem.

I hope I'll get home from a day on the road tomorrow and find a new tune file waiting, and then really hope I get lucky and have Saturday off to address the heater hose for the heat exchanger and solder the IC pump's relay.

[redfirepearlgt]

Do you have an SCT tuner??? If so go to sctflash.com. Go to technical support. Find the tuner version you have and click that icon. That will in tunr prompt you for the serial number off the back. once in the next screen you will find a datalogging software download called Live-Link Gen II hopefully. Download it to your laptop. IT will also include sct drivers that will also download. You can also update you sct tuner unit fro m that screen if the firmware revision is predating the current. Easy to do.

Once the LInk Link Gen II software has successfully loaded onto your lap top, open it and being with the GUIDE ME screen. Select the first option - I WANT TO DATALOG A VEHICLE. Follow the first few prompts without the device plugged into the car to ensue you are making communications between the SCT device and the laptop. Once this is done. The rest is easy.

Go to the car. Start it up. Plug the SCT tuner into the car. Plug the USB cable in connecting the SCT tuner to your laptop. Wait to ensure the PC acknowledges the device is connected (as with any USB device). D Click on the live link Gen II software. Select I WANT TO DATALOG A VEHICLE. pay no attention to the first prompts because you have the car already started and the unit plugged in. In the check communications screen click on CHECK COMMUNICATIONS. IT will take a 30 seonds or so but eventually the ??? in the coms portion of that page will fill with data indicating that you are communicating successfully. Then click the button that says VEHICLE INFO. In that screen I suggest selecting VALIDATE ALL PIDS option. IT will take a few moments to do this. You will see processing completion % in the bottom left corner of the page. When it is complete it will show you a full list of the PIDS and Enhanced PIDS you can select from. Then it is simply a matter of selecting those you wish to datalog and saving the config file. After this its easy.

PRESS THE START DATALOGGIN button in the top left portion of the page. The process will take a few seconds to open and begin trending the data. When you are complete press the STOP DATALOGGING button. Then save the csv file. IT is a good idea to make small files so that it is easier (when convenient) to sort through the data.

Its that easy and you don't even have to marry the device to your car. In fact you can use anyone's SCT device for live datalogging with a laptop because it is merely a coms bus link between the PC and the ODBCII device.

Need any help PM me. I did some datalogging yesterday on Oscar.

[jeep45238]

I'm working on installing windows on my desktop so I can at least load tunes, I'll have to ask a buddy if they can bring their laptop down for a datalog sometime then.

[jeep45238]

After some help from compressed air, an extra long spark plug socket, and a slight tap from a hammer the last spark plug has been replaced.

Wiring for the intercooler pump has been soldered, same with the fuel pressure gauge.

Heater hose for the water pump -> heat exchanger has been fixed, and the system ran and burped.

Wide band O2 sensor has been calibrated.

The idler pullies have been sand blasted, but I think the noise I've been hearing once things warm up a bit is normal (I don't know, first KB I've ever had - please chime in if it isn't normal). The noise stops a little after the engine stops, so I'm thinking it's compressed air between the screws that I'm hearing.

Adam has a modified tune written and it should be sent my way shortly. I'm also probably going to have Wednesday off, so if things are looking good and Adam has an opening, I might be headed down south this week for the dyno.

[jeep45238]

A few datalogs have been made and sent to Adam. I'm hoping I'll get off wednesday (not looking like it right now), and that it will synch with Adam's availability.

[jeep45238]

I finally figured out the whistling noise. After spending some time with unhelpful tech support telling me to smoke the blower (which could work....but no smoke machine), I spent some time with a screwdriver to my hear and Doug at the shop had a stethescope out probing around trying to find this noise. We came to our own conclusions on the general area that it was coming from independant of each other and wound up narrowing down to the same general area.

Unfortunately, the vac. leak is where the inlet manifold meets the supercharger. It wasn't audible up top, but it was at the bottom driver's side corner. However, once brake cleaner was sprayed it got sucked right up on the top and you could watch it get sucked up from over 1/2" away. Awesome.

So, I need to clean a gasket surface and torque 6 bolts. The downside is that to do this right I'm going to have to pull the blower, pull out a couple access ports, pull it apart, clean, RTV it, torque,reinstall, and put in for a couple days of leave to get it all buttoned up correctly. The upside is that I found the problem, and it's not a huge major problem. It also helps that I did the removal of the intake manifold myself and the install of the blower myself, so it should go a fair amount quicker this time around.

[rtvickers]

I pulled mine so many times there for a while I got it down to about 10-15 mins. It does get easier. Glad you found out what it was. I have access to a smoke machine.

[jeep45238]

It shouldn't be too bad this time around. I'm going to do it in the shop this time, so I won't be freezing my chops off working by flashlight this time around.

[rtvickers]

It shouldn't be too bad this time around. I'm going to do it in the shop this time, so I won't be freezing my chops off working by flashlight this time around.

Been there before. Lol

[jeep45238]

The fact that I'll have air tools, heat, good lighting, tool organization, and a work bench means a LOT compared to working in a parking lot at night. :)

[jeep45238]

I went ahead and pulled it today, sealed the manifold up, and bolted it back on. The noise was greatly diminished, and I found a leak in my PCV system as well as where the EGR bolts up.

Go figure, now my WBO2 won't calibrate - I'll need to get around to fixing that. Other than that, it's close to good to go. I just need to hunt around for any more potential vacuum leaks and she's good to go get tuned.

[jeep45238]

For those that need to get catch cans but aren't willing to cough up $50+ a pop and/or don't have the tools to make a nicer looking unit, I just snagged two of them for $9 each off ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280769839786?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm sure I'll have to reseal everything and put in some stainless pan scrubbers to actually catch the oil, but that's just fine with me for the price. I was astonished at how much oil was inside the inlet manifold and plenum after only 50 miles of driving (It literally poured out with the blower tilted).

[redfirepearlgt]

For those that need to get catch cans but aren't willing to cough up $50+ a pop and/or don't have the tools to make a nicer looking unit, I just snagged two of them for $9 each off ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280769839786?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm sure I'll have to reseal everything and put in some stainless pan scrubbers to actually catch the oil, but that's just fine with me for the price. I was astonished at how much oil was inside the inlet manifold and plenum after only 50 miles of driving (It literally poured out with the blower tilted).

Welcome to the world of FI.

[4n_eatr]

I went ahead and pulled it today, sealed the manifold up, and bolted it back on. The noise was greatly diminished, and I found a leak in my PCV system as well as where the EGR bolts up.

Go figure, now my WBO2 won't calibrate - I'll need to get around to fixing that. Other than that, it's close to good to go. I just need to hunt around for any more potential vacuum leaks and she's good to go get tuned.

I still hate you....


For those that need to get catch cans but aren't willing to cough up $50+ a pop and/or don't have the tools to make a nicer looking unit, I just snagged two of them for $9 each off ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280769839786...84.m1439.l2649

I'm sure I'll have to reseal everything and put in some stainless pan scrubbers to actually catch the oil, but that's just fine with me for the price. I was astonished at how much oil was inside the inlet manifold and plenum after only 50 miles of driving (It literally poured out with the blower tilted).


OOOOO JDM! That means its good, right? lol :bigthumb
Do you need two or just pick up an extra?

[jeep45238]

Bring on the hate Justin, it only feeds Animal more :)

The WBO2 is calibrated, I went back to the initial tune file that Adam sent me and it works wonders now that everything is buttoned up.

I had a revelation last night that the KB instructions had me hook up the PCV valve to the intake tube and the driver's side valve cover to the supercharger - and this means that the PCV valve was pulled shut from 20 inches of vacuum, and the crank case was basically turned into a huge vacuum resivior with no flow under any conditions. I swapped where the hoses hooked up, and shazam - no more funky noise, it sounds almost stock, and my A/F ratio is more consistant as well. I'll be pulling the throttle body tomorrow to see how the oil situation is, but I'm willing to bet that the supercharger is sucking up a LOT less oil now that there is actually a flow going through it in the correct direction.

I took it out for 5-10 miles to get everything warm and verify that there were no leaks or funky noises, and it has none. I then datalogged on the same route.


JDM means more awesomeness, because it's overnighted from Japan and stuff. But really, it was the cheapest way I could find them, and I got two just in case one was absolute junk. I figure if I can pawn it off for $15 I'll break even regarding shipping. Worst case I'll end up tapping a hole in the top, putting in a barbed fitting, and adding a small filter to it and tie both barbed fittings to the valve covers with a PCV delete if my current setup doesn't work as I anticipate it will.

So, as of now, it's just waiting on Adam to get caught up (and hey, everybody deserves a break during holidays, and time to themselves as well), get a dyno day synch'd, and it'll just be making things look a little cleaner and more factory style install.

The hopeful winter project is an axle swap with a local fellow that has factory 3.27's.

[redfirepearlgt]

way to go stud. IF you're going to be bringing it to Adams, then call me and let me know and I will meet you there to watch the final numbers and hang out.

[jeep45238]

I'll be bringing it to Adam, it's just a matter of time. I'll have to take leave to make it happen, but that's quite OK - I've got over 15 more days in the pool right now, and only plan on taking two days leave through December, and no more until late spring/early summer.

I realized I have a few photos that I haven't shared yet by accident, so while these aren't 100% current, it's close enough :D

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131112_180428_107_zpsda3dbb22.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131112_183522_803_zps2378d433.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131130_105136_114_zpsf1a2222b.jpg

[rtvickers]

Looks like your making some great progress. Awesome job! Let me know also when you plan on heading to Adams. Id like to try and make it to see that thing come alive. Awesome job Mike.

[jeep45238]

I'll put the word out on here when I'll be headed to Adam's place. It's EXTREMELY difficult for me to restrain myself and not drive this to work and back and go on cruises just for the sake of cruising, let alone getting on the gas and watching the boost climb.

[rtvickers]

Patients, don't hurt it. What gauge setup do you have?

[jeep45238]

WBO2, Fuel Pressure, Boost/Vac

[4n_eatr]

Patients, don't hurt it. What gauge setup do you have?

If they're in the hospital, they do...

[rtvickers]

If they're in the hospital, they do...

Lol. Took you long enough. I cant believe you didn't say anything about the other ones in a few other posts. Your slipping.

[jeep45238]

I do want an oil pressure gauge, but I'm going to hold off on that one for a little bit. I'd like to mount it in the bezel that goes around the gauges, but I'm not sure what I would use for the other pod (and it's not much more for a two pod vs. a one). IAT perhaps?

[redfirepearlgt]

Uh like Oil Temp is a goof one to have... aside from oil pressure...or voltage or amps is also nice.

[4n_eatr]

Lol. Took you long enough. I cant believe you didn't say anything about the other ones in a few other posts. Your slipping.

Lol, I'm at a class for the next couple weeks so I have to use my phone so I don't get on very much... But I'm trying...


Mike, you could always do what ricers do and get a pillar gauge pod for your passenger side that has stuff like a clock, outside temperature sensor, and nitrous pressure!

[jeep45238]

Justin.....no.


I talked to Adam today and he said he could squeeze me in on Friday or Monday. I put in leave for Monday before leaving work today.

[rtvickers]

Lol, I'm at a class for the next couple weeks so I have to use my phone so I don't get on very much... But I'm trying...


Well you've got some proof reading to do Mr. Wallace. Get your red grammar pen out. I put a few out there for you. The bad thing is I don't remember all of them. But there's a few out their.

[rtvickers]

Justin.....no.


I talked to Adam today and he said he could squeeze me in on Friday or Monday. I put in leave for Monday before leaving work today.

What time are you planning on being at Adam's on Monday?

[jeep45238]

1100 In The Morning

[rtvickers]

Not sure if I can make but I'll see what I can do.

[jeep45238]

I'll be showing up early, weather is supposed to be spotty up here and down there. I'm sure I'll drool a bit there, but I'll probably be there all day save going somewhere for lunch.

[rtvickers]

If the weather is nasty I'll probably be working. If its not then I might take off early and come up and drool with you.

[SN95N/A]

I will be there for a minute I got to drop couple things off.

[redfirepearlgt]

I might come over for a few minutes. Was hoping you would be there closer to 10. BTW stop at the Wendys there off the Cleves exit. Its about the only thing in that area to eat.

ALL DEPENDS ON WEATHER RIGHT NOW. Heard just now we have a real wing dinger winter storm coming in this Friday. Ice and everything.

[jeep45238]

Yup, with freezing rain Sunday. I'm hoping that they're wrong.

[jeep45238]

the second fuel injector on the driver side keeps losing it top o ring, anybody have any suggestions? the rail looks flat, mounting brackets are torques AnD Seated the rings are new and were Oiled on installation

[SN95N/A]

You taking it to adam in the a.m? He will figure it out for you

[jeep45238]

It's just annoying not being able to figure some things out myself. I know the rail is fully bolted down, and it has fresh orings. The only other things I can narrow it down to is the rail is slightly bent where that injector sits, since I have no problems with any other one.

[jeep45238]

Went to Adam's today and had her dyno tuned. Final numbers were 386 ft lbs and 386 hp - and wow is it quick/fun.

The funny thing is seeing my dyno curves compared to the previous owner's dyno. He was running a 9psi pulley, I'm running a 6 - he's on a dynojet, I'm on a Mustang. It astounds me how fast his torque falls off.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/1487708_10151776662836498_2146428600_o_zps23598057 .jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/882932_10151776663251498_2006521793_o_zpsb860db8c. jpg

Previous guy's setup:
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/uploadfromtaptalk1365969190700_zps8ca183d4.jpg

[SN95N/A]

Congrats on getting her tuned..did you see my heap in pieces lol

[jeep45238]

Sure did! I was amazed how much more room there is with a tubular K member under the hood. It'll be nice when it's done.

And just for reference, this was what I was making before I started this project.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/FB_IMG_13407486181238269.jpg

[4n_eatr]

I was just about to text you and ask what it was since I couldn't see it on my phone.. is it 386 or 368? crazy how its the same though. And I think you obvioulsy took a little more care in your build, lol. A little care goes a long way. What was your initial run?

[jeep45238]

368, I was multitasking and day dreaming about what these deer steaks are going to taste like.

[4n_eatr]

first the supercharger.... now deer steaks... you're evil...
At least now I can catch up a bit..... until you decide to bump up to a 9PSI pulley...

[jeep45238]

That probably won't happen for a long time. I decided I'm going to do an EGR delete after talking to Adam about the pro/cons of an EGR, which means I'm going to have to drop my K member. I'm seriously considering a K member come summer time if I find a good deal on one. I'm also getting very tempted by cams.

[redfirepearlgt]

Great numbers on the mustang dyno Mike. Told ya...ADAM IS THE MAN. On a dynojet those numbers will be higher. Would like to see a pull on one to see the comparison.

Glad you are finally experiencing what it feels like to be BLOWN for the first time. Now the addiction begins padwan!!! You have experienced the F/I force for the first time. Each time you will want to experience more. Entrance ramps will become launch pads. The desire to replace vacuum with positive displacement will continue to manifest itself into an uncontrollable addiction. Its inevitable. You have been BLOWN!!!!

[4n_eatr]

That probably won't happen for a long time. I decided I'm going to do an EGR delete after talking to Adam about the pro/cons of an EGR, which means I'm going to have to drop my K member. I'm seriously considering a K member come summer time if I find a good deal on one. I'm also getting very tempted by cams.

I don't blame you on the cams. The stock ones are pathetic. ESPECIALLY for boost. I'm sure that thing would scream after some boost cams!

[rtvickers]

Congrats Mike. Great numbers. Enjoy the feeling of having the fruits of your labor payoff. It was all worth it. Like Chad said boost is addicting. I couldn't get off work to make it up there. I wish I could've been there.

[jeep45238]

Thanks everybody. I need to take care of the busted A/C line and get a second fuel pump in the tank before I start going after more power, my fuel pump isn't able to keep up with the demand at 5800 RPM's. That K member will wait if I can find a good deal on a cobra tank/hat when I have the money to buy it, otherwise I'll be shoe horning a second 320lph pump in the tank.

[jeep45238]

It is addicting. When the streets were clear, in this cold weather and 3rd gear I lost traction at 45mph. It's a lot warmer now, and I started loosing it in 4th going about 80.

[jeep45238]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20131229_212046_832_zps78c288f5.jpg

It also can be quite the gas sipper when I'm not heavy on the throttle.

I wish I did this years ago.

[SN95N/A]

I got cobra tank and pumps I'd sell

[jeep45238]

I'm Interested But Can't Buy now

[SN95N/A]

It will be sittin here let me know.

[jeep45238]

Right now I'm just waiting on getting in another fuel pump, fuel level sensor, and some time off of work to hack up a jerry can and install everything.

Long story short I couldn't find a good deal on anything for a while, so I was patient. The cheapest I could find a complete cobra tank was for $550 out the door. Everybody had cobra hats with cut harnesses, no fuel level sensor, and no pumps for $150+shipping all day long. I found one with a PPRM delete, and is complete except for the level sensor for $75 shipped. I had two spare FPDM's that I got for $30. All my harness parts were shipped out to me for $165. My fuel pump will run $100, and my level sensor $60-90.

That's putting me at $560 for two 320lph pumps, and a completely redundant fuel system (two pumps, two harnesses, two fpdm's). At the power level I'm at one pump is enough. I'll be able to sell the BAP that came with the kit (I never ran it) for no less than $150, so that drops it down to $410.

That's way better than $750 for the cobra tank and buying two 320lph's, let alone getting an aftermarket fuel hat.

:rockon:


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140316_090538_996_zpsy4zjzhi7.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140316_091242_440_zpshjjubi6w.jpg

Bad picture of the hat, but it's now sporting a wire upgrade on it.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140316_094553_287_zpslyroxxae.jpg

[jeep45238]

Come to think of it, does anybody know if the gt fuel level sensor will bolt onto the cobra hat? Or if you have the distance between the mounting holes on the 99-04 GT fuel level sensor, that would be of great help.

[jeep45238]

I took a few days of leave to tear into Animal today, there's a lot being done in a short period of time.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140520_123104_591_zpsfhc8zqa7.jpg

Twin 320lph fuel pumps are now sitting in the tank, along with a cobra fuel level sender. Hopefully I'll be getting a cobra tank in the nearish future, and this will save me a headache when that happens. The plumbing is submersible fuel hose with stainless steel U bends to avoid kinking. Two fuel pump driver modules are installed currently.

The aluminum battery box is in the trunk, I just have to drill the vent hose hole for that.

Up for the next few days:


Cobra front brake install (13" vented rotors vs. 11" vented)
SSBC big brake (12" rear vented rotors vs 10" solid) install
Battery relocation to trunk
3.5 quarter intercooler reservior install, intercooler pump relocation and cooling line re-route
New a/f gauge and Aeroforce Intercepter gauge install
Calibrate boost gauge
New gauge harness
Dash bezel gauge pod
Steering wheel gauge pod
Delete pillar pod
0 gauge battery cables
A/C liquid line and accumulator replacement

Hopefully there will be enough time when it's all done to give it a good wash and wax.

[jeep45238]

No pictures today, and ran into a few "oops" moments.

EGR is deleted, had to drop the K member to get to the bottom part of the tube to get it off. Tube is out, EGR delete plate is on, valve is off, sensors are gone, just need to tuck the wiring and clean it up a bit. Also found a ground that I forgot to reinstall last time I dropped it, and maybe that will explain the massive voltage drop when I go to try and start it - looks like it may run up to the battery. Oops.

SSBC rear brakes are installed

Cobra caliper 1/2 way repaired, then cobra brakes go on tomorrow

Pulled the accumulator, and what I thought was the liquid line that popped wasn't, it ran from the condenser to evaporator. I'm picking that up tomorrow from Ford and should have it on by 10:30.

Battery box is in the trunk, cables should be in within two days, and then the battery goes in the back.

Tackling gauges tomorrow after I get the brakes and a/c taken care off if my battery stuff isn't in the mail box yet.

[jeep45238]

Battery's in the box, cables are ran, a/c is fixed, inetcooler pump relocated, 3.5L intercooler resivior mounted.

Unfortunately there wasn't enough depth for the bushing to fix the cobra caliper to work, so I'll be getting a reman for that one.

Just need to bleed brakes, get the gauges in, and put the interior back together.

[jeep45238]

And she's on the road! The only major thing to do in the interior is wait for the boost gauge to show up, and other than that she's more or less done outside the never-ending task of tidying up everything.

I have a bad feeling I'll be digging back into the tank, as for some reason my fuel pump duty cycle is showing nearly 50% at idle, and that's with 2 320lph pumps. So, either there's something going on with the original tune and it's reflected on that (like, maybe 50% total, so 25% each?), or there's a problem with the install and I get to dig back into it to find the restriction/leak.

[redfirepearlgt]

good. so see you Sunday??

[jeep45238]

I have plans in Cincinnati for tomorrow at the Taste of Cincinnati, otherwise I would be there. If the folks show, offer to give Pops a ride, and scare the pants off of him if the opprotunity presents itself.

As for the fuel pump duty cycle, int he lack of sleep last night I mixed up the fuel pressure and duty cycle reading on my gauge. I'm sitting at 9.3% effort from the pumps at idle, and she puts 11.0 solid AF when she gets romped.

[redfirepearlgt]

If the opportunity presents itself will do.

[jeep45238]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140709_202409_853_zps03ntf7ix.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/2003%20Mustang%20GT/Project%20Work/IMG_20140709_202351_151_zpsybjchhqx.jpg

Green for boost, red for horsepower, blue for torque, light blue for AFR.

[mustangjon]

Love the torque platue it's near peak torque at 2509 and just stays there

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ That's twin screw for ya. Torque on line and stays there.