Wiring My Racecar

[devous1]

My BB Notch had an old Painless panel with toggle switches, the start toggle was sticking in colder weather so I decided to switch it out. I think the ARC panels are cool as shit but decided to go with a Painless panel with rocker switches.

I knew the wiring in the car was jacked up before I took the panel out and sure as shit it is. It's not totally bad but I'm not happy with it and a little concerned about issues that can arise from crappy wiring.

The car at this point is strictly race, no passenger seat. So I'm thinking about buying or fabbing a panel to mount all the electronics on and sticking it in the passenger compartment so everything is easily accessable. The car isn't high tech but I may convert it to the new Holley EFI later this winter.

I'm looking for suggestions on placement of the panel, size, material (carbon fiber, aluminum etc) and hints from past experience.

[m347]

I put this kit in my car last winter. Made wiring everything quick and easy.

http://www.biondoracing.com/product/DDI-1049-MP-B.html

I mounted the board in the passenger floor board on a piece of aluminum. I used rubber mounts on the aluminum off of an old msd 6al box to limit vibration.

[Adam@S&MMotorsports]

Most of us are running ARC panels. :bigthumb

http://www.autorod.net/products/?TB_LINK=table_485bf7d08e08a

[devous1]

I've looked at them and they appear to be light years ahead of the regular switch panels. However I bought the painless panel months ago thinking I could just swap it out with the existing painless panel. I did get the panels swapped out and rewired today and the car is running.

What I'm really looking for is a premade panel to bring all the wiring back to in the passenger compartment. I'd like to rewire the car later this winter because there are splices everywhere and the wiring is just kind of crapy. They currently have all the fuse blocks in the a panel in the glove box which makes access a pain.

If there is nothing out there I will try to fab something myself later that will accommodate all the connetions, msd, shift activator and maybe the holley efi if I convert.

[RIXXX93GT]

You can use aluminum plate (1/8"-3/16" thick), or plastic sheet (3/16"-1/4" thick) would work fine. Just mount it so that is has a decent air gap off the floor and use rubber shock mounts like was mentioned earlier. You can get these things local or through Mcmaster Carr.

[m347]

Most of us are running ARC panels. :bigthumb

http://www.autorod.net/products/?TB_LINK=table_485bf7d08e08a

I had there in dash switch panel in my car for a while but the switches did not last very long. Had to change the ignition switch once and the fan switch twice in three years.

[devous1]

You can use aluminum plate (1/8"-3/16" thick), or plastic sheet (3/16"-1/4" thick) would work fine. Just mount it so that is has a decent air gap off the floor and use rubber shock mounts like was mentioned earlier. You can get these things local or through Mcmaster Carr.

I think this is my route, I have a few things worked in my head and have some rubber mounts from fuel pumps.

[devous1]

I had there in dash switch panel in my car for a while but the switches did not last very long. Had to change the ignition switch once and the fan switch twice in three years.

This is my concern with those dashes. I like to just build it once and not have a shit ton of maint. I still believe in the old KISS method.

[Adam@S&MMotorsports]

I had there in dash switch panel in my car for a while but the switches did not last very long. Had to change the ignition switch once and the fan switch twice in three years.

This style or the old rocker style? This type has no moving parts and carries a lifetime warranty. Nearly every race car I work on has this panel, if not the owners wish that they did.:bigthumb

[m347]

It was the old rocker style switches. Seems like they should have lasted way longer than they did.

[Adam@S&MMotorsports]

It was the old rocker style switches. Seems like they should have lasted way longer than they did.

That makes sense. The new ones are badass :bigthumb

[devous1]

So if there is an issue with an individual switch, can you replace it or do you have to yank it and send it out for repair?

[Adam@S&MMotorsports]

So if there is an issue with an individual switch, can you replace it or do you have to yank it and send it out for repair?

They would send you a new panel. I haven't seen an issue yet. I think they have tested the components to like 8 billion cycles...