98 Cobra Family Cruiser

[5.0calypso93lx]

Been Mustangless for a LONG time. Got married, had a couple kids, the usual stuff LOL.

After selling my bike earlier this year because it never got any use I decided to pick something up a little more family friendly. Got a one way flight out to St Louis a couple weeks ago and drove home this 98 Cobra. 73k mile, 2 owner car. First owner had car for 12 years and 2nd owner had the car just a couple months shy of 10 years. Overall it's a clean car, but definitely not perfect. It's got a couple of issues and some things the seller wasn't super honest about, but overall I'm happy with it.

Mods:

-18" Aodhan DS08's (had FR500's on it when I got it, but swapped them out. FR500's will be for sale soon)
-Eibach Sportlines
-BBK CAI
-BBK Gripp CC Plates
-Smoked Headlights
-Aftermarket H Pipe and Flowmaster catback

Stuff I need to look into:

-Car is idling high. When it first start it up it will idle down to 1-1200 rpm, but once I drive it for a bit the idle wants to linger anywhere from 15-2000rpm.
-The clutch cable, quadrant, etc is all jacked up. Was told it had an aftermarket quadrant, cable and adjuster. Whatever is in it is trash. Car doesn't shift worth a damn and there is a super hard spot at the end of the pedal travel. The clutch pedal will also literally violently vibrate at times if I don't rest my foot on the pedal. The FWA is basically adjusted completely out which makes me think the cable is probably some cheap junk that is all stretched out.
-The car rides like complete ass. It's got Eibach Sportline springs on it and stock shocks. Not good.

Stuff I've ordered and need to get installed on the car:

-MM Quadrant, FWA and Cable
-MGW Shifter
-Bilstein HD shocks and struts. I doubt this is going to solve all of my crap ride problems, but I'm going to install these and see how the car does before I go and change up a bunch of stuff
-MM Bump steer kit
-4.10's package from LMR
-Unknown brand long tubes

My goal with the car is just to have a nice cruiser than I can take the boys and wife out in and maybe hit up a couple drag events here and there as I get time.

Super happy to be back! :bigthumb

https://i.ibb.co/QQrt2HL/IMG-0230-002.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Pc2FX4g/IMG-0229.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/5jRswhM/IMG-0249.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/w6dVYQt/IMG-0251.jpg

[PKFIRE]

Welcome Back ! Good looking car! Sounds like you a good project ahead of you.

[Maximus]

Very cool!

[draggin50]

Good looking car! Those wheels sure made a difference!

[NXcoupe]

These cars are the best bang for the buck hands down right now. I like it. I had a low, low mileage 97 triple black one I sold, and sort of wish I'd have kept it. Enjoy. Sounds like it'll be a lot of fun.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Good looking car! Those wheels sure made a difference!

Thanks! I liked the FR's, but wanted something different and lighter. These wheels are flow formed so they're surprisingly light for their size.

[5.0calypso93lx]

These cars are the best bang for the buck hands down right now. I like it. I had a low, low mileage 97 triple black one I sold, and sort of wish I'd have kept it. Enjoy. Sounds like it'll be a lot of fun.

Exactly why I grabbed one. I got it for a pretty fair price even though I had to travel for it. Every one I saw around here guys were wanting $13k+ for clean ones. That wasn't far from 03-04 territory 1-2 years ago.

[Walter]

Nice ride!!! I got a gen2 coyote engine that would be badass in there!

[k062693w]

Sweet Vert !!!

- - - Updated - - -


Nice ride!!! I got a gen2 coyote engine that would be badass in there!

My son's got an LX looking for a Coyote !!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nice ride!!! I got a gen2 coyote engine that would be badass in there!

Leave me alone :lol:

If Aaron above buys that thing do I get commission since this is my thread?!?

[Walter]

Leave me alone :lol:

If Aaron above buys that thing do I get commission since this is my thread?!?

Sure, ill buy you lunch!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Sure, ill buy you lunch!

I need to come :eek: that bike

[draggin50]

Nice ride!!! I got a gen2 coyote engine that would be badass in there!

Hmmmm… Only way to keep up with one is to have one!!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got a spot cleaned out in the garage for the car. Been hectic with just moving in not too long ago, but it's getting there.
https://i.ibb.co/Qbnw6DS/IMG-0442-002.jpg

First thing I wanted to tackle was the quadrant. I'm not sure what brand was in the car, but it was a triple hook unit with a really just poor feeling pedal. You can really tell with the MM unit how much better it flows and has a smoother pull of the cable. I also found the old quadrant was just hanging out on the quadrant post with no spacers so it was able to move around freely. I'm sure that contributed to the poop pedal feel I previously had. I was going to replace the cable and firewall adjuster as well, but the car actually has a pretty nice "clicking" adjuster and the cable appears to be exactly like the MM unit I just bought. I did add the little widget deal to this cable as I had way too much slack without it. It's much better now, but I still have a weird clutch pedal vibration at certain rpm.
https://i.ibb.co/wgYMLDP/IMG-0432.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/6PVy0Lc/IMG-0431.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gZNr8jx/IMG-0437.jpg

Snagged a pic of the clutch when I had the fork cover off as I was told it had a newer clutch. All I can see is that it has a white pressure plate. Feels like a stock replacement:
https://i.ibb.co/3TBznTm/IMG-0435-002.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/N6cRyhw/IMG-0436.jpg

Also found this broken connector on the engine side harness for the TPS. The car idled great without this plugged in, but had some major dead spots in the lower end throttle positions:
https://i.ibb.co/phSc7BP/IMG-0439-002.jpg

Still trying to address some of the issues the car has to make it a nice cruiser. Getting there slowly but surely.

[NXcoupe]

To get rid of the pedal vibration,go to a parts store, like a napa or KOI, and ask for a clutch spring assortment. There is a place on the trans where you can bend and hook to and the other end hooks onto the clutch fork. It is a tab with a hole in it on the trans. Lengthen it enough that it gently holds the fork back. I used to charge guys to do this. Have done many. It fixes the vibration issue and prolongs the life of the tob. The kit comes with different lengths and stiffness. Pick one and adjust as necessary.

[5.0calypso93lx]

To get rid of the pedal vibration,go to a parts store, like a napa or KOI, and ask for a clutch spring assortment. There is a place on the trans where you can bend and hook to and the other end hooks onto the clutch fork. It is a tab with a hole in it on the trans. Lengthen it enough that it gently holds the fork back. I used to charge guys to do this. Have done many. It fixes the vibration issue and prolongs the life of the tob. The kit comes with different lengths and stiffness. Pick one and adjust as necessary.

Thanks Mike, I will take a look at that and give it a shot

[redfirepearlgt]

Love the wheels on it James. Looks good. Bring it up to NXCoupe's cruise in this Saturday. Glad to see you back in a 2 door. Say hey to L and L for me. We miss them!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Love the wheels on it James. Looks good. Bring it up to NXCoupe's cruise in this Saturday. Glad to see you back in a 2 door. Say hey to L and L for me. We miss them!

Thanks Chad! Wish I could. My son's got a baseball game on Saturday out in Amelia. I actually just saw them a few weeks ago. Invited them to my son's baseball game when he was playing in Morrow. Will do! Hope things are going good for you

[chris91]

Looks great with the new wheels! Bet the kids love it with the top down. Mine loved it when I had my 94.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Ordered up some H&R Super Sport springs for the car from Maximum Motorsports. Should be here tomorrow. They're the convertible specific springs so I'm hoping those will help out the ride quality a bit. Will throw on the Bilstein struts up front once the springs come in.

Took the boys to get ice cream last night. They absolutely love this thing. Always so excited to go for a ride in it

https://i.ibb.co/zQsnVcf/IMG-0656.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/z7jbRx9/IMG-0655.jpg

Wife also got me this kick ass metal Cobra sign for the garage:
https://i.ibb.co/7grwphC/IMG-0651.jpg

[Walter]

Car looked real good going down the road the other day! Looked low and wide!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Car looked real good going down the road the other day! Looked low and wide!

Thanks dawg. My car ain't real loud, but it's not super quiet either. Crazy how I can hear your car over mine even when you're behind me :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got to spend a little time on this thing over the past weekend. It was mostly working on getting the garage work bench built and everything organized, but I'm happy to have that done so I can have some organization and know where all my tools are :)
https://i.ibb.co/x7FNB8C/Garage-space.jpg

I did end up getting some MM CC plates as I do plan on going with coilovers this winter. For now I'm going to run them with the Bilsteins and H&R Super Sport convertible specific springs I picked up a couple weeks back
https://i.ibb.co/kH1rYXM/Bilsteins-and-MM-CC-Plates.jpg

Interesting to see how different the H&R Super Sports are from the Eibach Sportlines
https://i.ibb.co/Gpm5Gf7/HR-vs-Eibach.jpg

I've also really been debating on whether or not to run the poly isolators that I got from MM. I didn't really notice any noises coming from the car for the few months I've owned it and when I went to pull the Eibachs off I noticed there were no isolators on the car except for the uppers on the front. These things are thick and are almost 3/4" tall which I think is going to be higher than I want the car to sit with the H&R's. Time will tell:
https://i.ibb.co/gjGLcSC/Isolators.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

I was a big fan of the UPS man last week. Really wasn't a big fan of running no isolators on the springs so found some Steeda weight jacker rear control arms to help bring the ride height down a bit. Steeda advertises a +/- 1" height adjustment with these so this should compensate for the isolators and a tad more. Also ordered up an AJE k member with their road race control arms:
https://i.ibb.co/5vr7hW3/IMG-0948.jpg
Rear suspension all installed and torqued down. Just need to install the MM rear pinion snubber and adjust the rear ride height:
https://i.ibb.co/6Fvq06b/IMG-0967.jpg

[draggin50]

I liked the Maximum Motorsports weight jacker control arms I had on the Cobra. Gave pretty good bit of adjustability on ride height.

[SnailPony]

Good looking car!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5.0calypso93lx]

I liked the Maximum Motorsports weight jacker control arms I had on the Cobra. Gave pretty good bit of adjustability on ride height.

Those are what I actually really wanted, but found these Steeda in like new condition for a lot less than new. Walter tried to talk me out of the aluminum arms, but I didn't listen and will probably regret this decision LOL

- - - Updated - - -


Good looking car!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Appreciate it!

[draggin50]

Not sure how much difference there is between them. Im sure these will be just fine.

I liked the Maximum Motorsports but I tore the bushings out twice and had to order them directly from them. The price wasn't bad on the bushings but they sure break it off in you on the shipping. That there was enough to make me never want to buy anything from them ever again.

[draggin50]

$39.97 for the bushings, $19 to ship. Crazy... Especially considering that they come in a 6x6 box that weighs about a pound.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Not sure how much difference there is between them. Im sure these will be just fine.

I liked the Maximum Motorsports but I tore the bushings out twice and had to order them directly from them. The price wasn't bad on the bushings but they sure break it off in you on the shipping. That there was enough to make me never want to buy anything from them ever again.

Which car were these on? Sounded like you needed the solid bushings lol. They're in San Luis Obispo, Cali so shipping is a little pricey from where they're at.

[draggin50]

Which car were these on? Sounded like you needed the solid bushings lol. They're in San Luis Obispo, Cali so shipping is a little pricey from where they're at.

They was on the Comp Orange Cobra. It would've been better suited with solid bushings but they was on it when I bought it.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the springs installed up front with the Bilsteins. Used some 11/16" (I think) heater hose from O'Reilly around the springs to try and keep them quiet without gaining too much in ride height. With these H&R springs directly next to the Eibach springs the resting heights were nearly identical. I'll be curious to see what the ride height ends up looking like:
https://i.ibb.co/HtjD5Hx/HRs-and-Bilsteins.jpg

Got the MM CC Plates mostly installed. Awaiting a couple washers and spacers from MM to complete the install. Tried to find them locally, but they're very oddball sizes which I couldn't find anywhere in stock.
https://i.ibb.co/4KkC23G/MM-CC-Plates-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/h7dT83x/MM-CC-Plates-2.jpg

Hope to have the car to the alignment shop by end of week this week. I'm also going to give MM a call today and ask about their bump steer kit. I ordered their 5/8" bolt through style bumpsteer kit, but I'm wondering if I can actually order up their tapered stud and go ahead and get the kit on the car now. I was going to wait until the winter to pull the spindles and have them opened up to 5/8", but I saw where if you initially have the tapered stud you can eventually upgrade to the 5/8" bolt setup. I would assume you can probably go backward to the tapered stud if needed as well?

[Walter]

Once you drill the spindle for the bolt thru kit, you cannot run tapered anymore.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Once you drill the spindle for the bolt thru kit, you cannot run tapered anymore.

Right, that part I get. I'm just wondering if I can run the bump steer kit that I already have, now, with a tapered stud if it's even possible to run that with the current kit I have. I was going to wait and just do the bolt through kit this winter, but if I can run now with a tapered stud that would be ideal.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I was starting to have flashbacks of my younger years with having a Mustang on jack stands for longer than a week :lol:

Back on the ground and ready for alignment on Monday. It rides MUCH better with these springs and the Bilstein struts. Still have some small adjustments to make, but we are back in action. Now to start knocking out some of the checks Mike and Walt helped me identify to get this thing idling better:
https://i.ibb.co/Stg044g/IMG-1115.jpg

[Maximus]

Those rims are too cool! :cool1:

[draggin50]

Man that looks good! I love those wheels!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks fellas!

[NXcoupe]

Looks good.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Obligatory alignment rack pics. Aligned the car to the factory caster and toe specs and set the camber up front at -1.7 and -1.9. The camber values would change at the slightest touch one way or the other so left it there
https://i.ibb.co/YcNNB7s/IMG-1160.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/NnTB6FF/IMG-1161.jpg

Did end up picking up an SCT X4 tuner to do some troubleshooting with codes and there were several. Need to dig into those, but I did flash one of the tunes from SCT and the car runs significantly better. Still have my annoying high idle issue:
https://i.ibb.co/1rwfgFz/IMG-1163.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DWCk6zw/IMG-1164.jpg

Mike, I also got a chance to snap a pic of the ecu and it does look like it's the factory 98 Cobra ECU. I still have a flashing Theft light on initial startup even after the SCT flash:
https://i.ibb.co/Yh9sz3W/IMG-1165.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Ok, we need to get together and see what we can do to get it lined out for you.

[Rick93coupe]

That looks really really good man! The wheels are perfect!

[PKFIRE]

That car has such a good look to it!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks guys! Got to enjoy the car quite a bit this weekend at the Milford Kroger cruise in and the Back the Heroes car show in Batavia:

https://i.ibb.co/gD4LdLK/IMG-1202.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/74dmsd0/IMG-1204.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/SVxZXbG/IMG-1212-002.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DG1X7sY/IMG-1214.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Ok, we need to get together and see what we can do to get it lined out for you.

Thanks Mike! I have a new TPS connector I got on Friday that I am hoping I can depin the old one and install the new. Also have a new IAC on the way. Should be here Wednesday. Trying to eliminate the things that I know aren't good on the car and do a little maintenance.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Also if anyone knows of a stock OEM black 96-98 Cobra hood that is really nice I am looking for one

[5.0calypso93lx]

Put a new IAC on the car last night and also replaced the connector for the TPS. No difference in idle and still idling around 1200rpm. I need to find a good vacuum diagram and take a look at everything there next
https://i.ibb.co/wcJRBCM/IMG-1250.jpg

[JIMS SVT]

Is it tuned?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Is it tuned?

It was apparently tuned before I bought it by STLMustangs HQ (I bought the car from a guy just outside of St Louis) for the emissions parts removal. Smog pump, egr, purge valve, etc. The previous owner told me he took the smog parts off the car because of "some emissions related check engine light". From my research that would make sense as the car has to be tuned to turn the EGR off. I also read that the Theft light flashing on the dash can be a result of the car being tuned or the ECU being tampered with in some way. It is the stock AOL3 ECU as I did confirm that last week. The more I dig into troubleshooting the car the more I think the idle issue is related to the emissions parts removal, aka vacuum leak somewhere, or the tune itself. The car runs fine and pulls good otherwise, but this idle / rpm hang issue is super annoying.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Found this ground strap attached to core support leading nowhere. Unhooked the batter while replacing the iac and found it:
https://i.ibb.co/djSB5zy/IMG-1239.jpg

This is unplugged back by the rear passenger side of the bay. I think it's the evap purge solenoid plug.
https://i.ibb.co/MRL7H0P/IMG-1245.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ If you are trying to identify a vacuum leak without a vacuum gauge, and you have a hand held programmer with ability to datalog short term and long term fuel trims you may be able to tell this way. Observe that LTFT's with the car idling. If there is a vacuum leak you have unmetered air. So the car will want to run lean. The ECM will see this and try to correct for it by adding fuel which can be seen in the STFT's and especially LTFT's. When you increase the throttle vacuum decreases (moves toward 0" Hg). As it does the trims will then correct again because the ECM will see AFR getting richer as the air coming in seeks the lesser route of resistance (TB is opening so engine is seenig more metered air) because the vacuum leak becomes less as throttle position gets closer to WOT. Ford describes this basic technique in their shop manuals.

Check the link out. Its for a 2005+ but it still tuning basics 101 troubleshooting for most modern day fuel injected cars.

https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=8&f=Adaptive%20Fuel%20DTC%20Diagnostic%20Techniques. pdf&p=1

Hope this helps.

[S281SC]

There is a vacuum port that goes to the passenger valve cover pcv valve. It is basically right under the throttle body opening on the intake manifold. This has a short rubber hose that has been know to come loose or deteriorate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5.0calypso93lx]

There is a vacuum port that goes to the passenger valve cover pcv valve. It is basically right under the throttle body opening on the intake manifold. This has a short rubber hose that has been know to come loose or deteriorate.


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So I just had that off putting on the JLT intake. I am familiar with the older style pcv valves that was on the back of the intake manifold on my 1993 Mustang. This car has nothing like that (and it was like that when I got it in my defense). It's just a straight open fitting with the hose connected to it that goes to the intake tube. I will take a closer look. Do these 4v's have similar PCV's like what I had on my 93? Because right now I have just an open fitting.

[5.0calypso93lx]

^^^ If you are trying to identify a vacuum leak without a vacuum gauge, and you have a hand held programmer with ability to datalog short term and long term fuel trims you may be able to tell this way. Observe that LTFT's with the car idling. If there is a vacuum leak you have unmetered air. So the car will want to run lean. The ECM will see this and try to correct for it by adding fuel which can be seen in the STFT's and especially LTFT's. When you increase the throttle vacuum decreases (moves toward 0" Hg). As it does the trims will then correct again because the ECM will see AFR getting richer as the air coming in seeks the lesser route of resistance (TB is opening so engine is seenig more metered air) because the vacuum leak becomes less as throttle position gets closer to WOT. Ford describes this basic technique in their shop manuals.

Check the link out. Its for a 2005+ but it still tuning basics 101 troubleshooting for most modern day fuel injected cars.

https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=8&f=Adaptive%20Fuel%20DTC%20Diagnostic%20Techniques. pdf&p=1

Hope this helps.

That definitely makes logical sense to me. I do have a new SCT X4 so I will dig into that and see if I can't figure out how to view those tables. Thank you

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ Download and install LIVELINK II (free down load) from SCT's website. Its free. This is a datalogging software package that will let you choose the PIDs you wish to monitor. Its actually easier than trying to configure the handheld IMO. Plug the tuner into the car, tether the device to your laptop with a printer USB cable (same cable you use to upload a tune into the X4), start the software click guide me, and follow the prompts. If you run into trouble call me one evening and I think I can remember how to walk through it though its been a while.

[5.0calypso93lx]

^^^ Download and install LIVELINK II (free down load) from SCT's website. Its free. This is a datalogging software package that will let you choose the PIDs you wish to monitor. Its actually easier than trying to configure the handheld IMO. Plug the tuner into the car, tether the device to your laptop with a printer USB cable (same cable you use to upload a tune into the X4), start the software click guide me, and follow the prompts. If you run into trouble call me one evening and I think I can remember how to walk through it though its been a while.

Thanks Chad, I am definitely going to try this.

Got a smoke machine on the car last night to check for any vacuum leaks. Besides the small amount coming out of the IAC vent I am seeing nothing. Everything is looking good there. I did get the rpm set to 600rpm with the IAC unplugged and checked TPS voltage. It's at .88 which I show is within spec. As soon as the IAC is plugged back in it wants to shoot up to 1200rpm at idle in neutral. This is with both the OEM IAC and a brand new Hitachi IAC.

I bought a little restrictor plate for the IAC and it doesn't help with either IAC either:
https://i.ibb.co/NFDMr3m/IMG-1263.jpg

I do have a couple of codes, but 1 is for the TPS which I was messing with, 2 are for the purge valve which was removed and the other 2 are imrc related. After clearing all the codes the 2 purge valve codes come right back, but the other 3 aren't back yet, but still have the high idle issue even before the 2 imrc codes exist:
https://i.ibb.co/KzZgzF3/IMG-1163.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/JH4YqYz/IMG-1164.jpg

P0122 -> Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch (TPS) A Circuit Low Input -> Had a busted TPS connector and replaced it with a new connector
P1516 -> Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error Bank 1 -> Not entirely sure what the deal is here. Both sides spring open and closed fine and previous owner says that nothing with the IMRC's was ever messed with
P0443 -> EVAP Purge Control Circuit -> Purge valve is gone entirely
P1445 -> Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Condition -> Same as above
P1519 -> Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed -> This is the other IMRC related code.

Chad, here is also a pic of the LTFT at idle. It definitely seems odd to me how high these values are. I'm not sure what the "acceptable" value of change is, but 17-23% seems really high to me.
https://i.ibb.co/GpjbBh0/IMG-1292.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

The LTFT's are high. That is correcting for the unmetered air getting in I suspect. I believe on an SCT 1.00 is optimal (no correction needed) where as on a Lund tuner device LTFT optimal is 0.00. If that number begins to drop as you increase throttle your EGR find is a good start. Delete the stupid thing. It is only there for NO emissions which only happens in lean (above lambda 1.0) with hot engine conditions. "Stick it to the man!!" as the liberal hippies love to say. Tear that thing off and delete it. Remember that at idle - the most difficult part of the tuning process - a little bit of unmetered air has a large effect. You are splitting hairs, even with a stock setup. It's the one of the two most time consuming and difficult parts of the tuning process. I never realized that until I read Greg Banish's book on tuning, and then comfirmed that with 3 tuners locally. I always like to discuss what I have read with the pros to know if what I have read is current and accurate.

Was not aware that IMRC plates were being used before 2005. Interesting. Those devices will also cause problems from reading about them. as I recall aside from sticking it seems that they can allow unmetered air in around the actuators IIRC - at least that has been known to happen on 4.6L 3V engines when they get miles on them. A lot of people eliminated them when they started turning on the power even at the earlier stages of upgrades.

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ Stand corrected. SCT X4 will also show 0.00 LTFT's at optimal. Positive number indicates adding fuel and neg number means pulling fuel. Sorry for the confusion. Been out of it for a while.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Been very slowly working on this thing here lately. I wanted to fix a couple things that I knew were problematic and that's actually helped out in other areas. I was having issues where the car would completely cut out either going around turns or getting on the throttle when the car had under half tank of fuel. Got the tank dropped to find a On3 340lph pump in the tank. The car has a stock tune on it so what I think happened is that the pump burned up due to the variable voltage electronics this car has on it stock. My understanding is that a non-variable voltage pump will die quickly if it's not seeing full voltage, but a variable voltage pump will live just fine with constant full voltage.
https://i.ibb.co/MgpVCyf/Old-Pump-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gFydP1Y/Old-Pump-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Qn1nVsc/Old-Pump-3.jpg

Replaced the On3 pump and modified basket with a new Walbro / TIA Automotive 255lph setup from LMR.
https://i.ibb.co/c3Vh97b/New-Pump-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/7Ypq5H9/New-Pump-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/P6xkvCH/New-Pump-3.jpg

Crazy how well the car runs when it's getting all the fuel commanded :lol:. I put a 1/4 tank of gas in it and went around some turns and no more cutting out. The idle is also significantly better. It is also making my clutch issue more prominent as a 3rd gear pull on the highway had the clutch slipping like crazy when I hit 4500rpm. That's the current issue I'm tackling and hope to have it replaced here in the next couple weeks.

Got started on the IMRC delete as well. The top two trans bellhousing bolts are super fun to get for the clutch replacement to so I decided that going ahead and pulling the intake mani to do the IMRC deletes. Big thanks to Jimsvt for his help throughout this and he was dead nuts on about there being tons of build up in the runners in the heads where the IMRC valves were. Hopefully pick up some power by just cleaning out each runner:
https://i.ibb.co/bvY9JVD/IMRC-Delete-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/ccpg4zw/IMRC-Delete-2.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Pulled the trigger on a carbon LSB spoiler. I've got an authentic saleen, but the fit isn't quite where I want it and I personally really like the look of these newer LSB customs / GT350 style spoilers:
https://i.ibb.co/hCKtDVX/LSB-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/3BT02C3/LSB-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/s5vXmRm/LSB-3.jpg

Unfortunately I found a crank in it and it's going to be sent back. Won't get another for about a month, but the guy has been great to work with and is sending out a new one no questions asked as soon as he gets them in. Sent me a prepaid return label and has been very timely with his communication. So far so good as long as I can get a good spoiler at the end of the day.

[Maximus]

:cool1:

[redfirepearlgt]

lookin good jason. lack of fuel supply will cause ltfts to go high to correct for a lean condition. that constant speed pump as you stated is not designed for the variable closed loop system. good find.

looks great man. im hoping to have something here soon. i have now missed out on three i wax looking at.

[5.0calypso93lx]

lookin good jason. lack of fuel supply will cause ltfts to go high to correct for a lean condition. that constant speed pump as you stated is not designed for the variable closed loop system. good find.

looks great man. im hoping to have something here soon. i have now missed out on three i wax looking at.

Appreciate it! It's a tough time to buy for sure.

[NXcoupe]

I'd love to pull that old tune off of your car and see what it looks like.

[draggin50]

Crazy what good fuel pressure will do for one!

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'd love to pull that old tune off of your car and see what it looks like.

I'm guessing it's just the stock tune with some of the emissions stuff turned off.


Crazy what good fuel pressure will do for one!

It's the simple things :lol:


Dyno tune is officially scheduled for June 16th. Crazy how far out tuners are booked nowadays!

[redfirepearlgt]

DAG! I'm getting old James. (not Jason...haha). Sorry.

[5.0calypso93lx]

DAG! I'm getting old James. (not Jason...haha). Sorry.

I got a brother named Jason so close enough :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Feels like anytime I do anything to this car I find some mind boggling stupid head issue. Today's find is this beautiful work. I know the shop that did the work on this car and I wouldn't wish my worst enemy take their car there (it's no one local or even in any state attached to Ohio).

https://i.ibb.co/0KVG0n7/Durrr.jpg

This would be the knock sensor harness wedged in between the engine block and the bellhousing. I think the worst part about it is they couldn't get a bolt started because the harness is in the way so instead of trying to figure out why they just left the bolt out completely and tightened the others.

The good news is I now have both top bellhousing bolts out with ease from the top and all of the driver front suspension came out with zero issues. Hopefully get all the passenger side stuff out tomorrow and get started on dropping the exhaust and trans.

[NXcoupe]

Wow, just wow. That is def causing issues.

[redfirepearlgt]

u have to b kidding me. i cant believe that hasnt chaffed thru and shorted that 12vdc bus to ground causing ax many issues as the loss of a knock sensor. makes you wonder if they have knock turned off in the tune.

[NXcoupe]

Doubtful they are off. That had to be shorted being crushed like that.

[redfirepearlgt]

Yikes. On the 05 and 11 schematics the knock sensors get their source voltage straight from the ECU/PCM. If that signal is not grounding completely out and is only pulling the source low (not enough to be a short to ground just low resistance to ground) across a low resistance it would be causing all kinds of issues with the PCM bus voltage throughout where ever that voltage is commonly used internally. Likewise the TPS also gets its voltage source from the ECU/PCM. I would guess the IAC may as well though there is no IAC on the 05 or 11 being they are throttle by wire setups. I just hope that has not damaged the ECU/PCM unit internally. If it has this would be one of those extremely rare moments where I would encourage someone to disclose who did the work so others do not fall victim to their lazy and pathetic work ethic. That is not an oversight. That is a rush job by someone who didn't care at all.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yikes. On the 05 and 11 schematics the knock sensors get their source voltage straight from the ECU/PCM. If that signal is not grounding completely out and is only pulling the source low (not enough to be a short to ground just low resistance to ground) across a low resistance it would be causing all kinds of issues with the PCM bus voltage throughout where ever that voltage is commonly used internally. Likewise the TPS also gets its voltage source from the ECU/PCM. I would guess the IAC may as well though there is no IAC on the 05 or 11 being they are throttle by wire setups. I just hope that has not damaged the ECU/PCM unit internally. If it has this would be one of those extremely rare moments where I would encourage someone to disclose who did the work so others do not fall victim to their lazy and pathetic work ethic. That is not an oversight. That is a rush job by someone who didn't care at all.

Chad, you very well could be onto something as I always had high idle issues with this car. I replaced the IAC, searched for vacuum leaks and always came up empty. I'm not for certain that is the root cause, but it would definitely make sense.

I got the trans pulled this weekend and found some other interesting things with this car. Here is the knock sensor harness or what's left of it:
https://i.ibb.co/kqSD9SZ/Knock-Sensor-Harness-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/SK2d1S1/Knock-Sensor-Harness-2.jpg

The clutch, albeit a cheapy Clutch Max kit that is $279 with a flywheel, looks to be in surprisingly good shape. I was talking to Walter and the theory is that with there being so much separation between the block and bellhousing where the above harness was pinched it could have caused major misalignment issues allowing the clutch to properly grab. The symptom I had was the car would free rev underload at about 4500-5000 rpm in 3rd gear:
https://i.ibb.co/KhQ6vBc/Clutch-Max-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/v4TD5xR/Clutch-Max-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Mc2rGqG/Clutch-Max-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/852Yb2Z/Clutch-Max-4.jpg

If I get time today I am hoping to get the stock k member pulled out so I can start on replacing the oil pan gasket and start getting the LT's installed.
https://i.ibb.co/jwyCMG5/Cross-Bar.jpg

Another fun item I get to fix is that while these ding dongs were smashing the harness in between the block and bellhousing they were simultaneously trying to get that bellhousing bolt started. Instead of checking to see why the bolt wasn't fully engaging my guess is they just kept cranking down on it until the bolt snapped off in the engine block taking a chunk out of the harness with it. Fun times:
https://i.ibb.co/N9pRft7/Rear-Main.jpg

The shop in question is a shop near St. Louis. I have an idea, but I truly don't know for certain which shop did the clutch so I can't name any names without knowing for sure.

[Maximus]

I dont miss working with jackstands, at all! :D

[5.0calypso93lx]

I dont miss working with jackstands, at all! :D

I been trying to get Walter to put one in his baller ass garage for years now. That way I can use it :lol:

[draggin50]

Making progress! I guess better to find it all now and be able to fix it while its apart. Sucks either way though.

I wouldn't know what to do in Walters garage! Id be afraid to spill something!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Making progress! I guess better to find it all now and be able to fix it while its apart. Sucks either way though.

I wouldn't know what to do in Walters garage! Id be afraid to spill something!

Exactly. It's just never an easy clutch job lol. Hell, I'm afraid to fart in Walts garage.

[Maximus]

I been trying to get Walter to put one in his baller ass garage for years now. That way I can use it :lol:

Thats probably why he hasnt. :lol::lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Stock K member is out, pilot bearing replaced, rear main seal replace and oil pan gasket replaced. One piece I've been stuck on is this bellhousing bolt that's broken off in the block. I attempted to weld a nut to the bolt by building up some slag on the broken off bolt and welding a nut to it, but the slag isn't enough close to being strong enough to holding while I try to turn the nut once it's welded on. It just breaks off immediately with minimal effort.
https://i.ibb.co/HVn9HgW/Stock-K-member.jpg

Another fun issue I've found. This is the harness from the battery to the block. You can also see someone added the black cable with orange tracer goes from the motor mount bolt to the inner frame rail.
https://i.ibb.co/d7sMFPP/Ground-cable.jpg

[S281SC]

You may be able even try this from the topside since that hole is open to the valley. Using a drill keep stepping up in drill size drilling the center of the bolt using plenty of PB blaster. After a few holes it gets hot enough to suck the lube in and break free. The good part is even if drill doesnt get it you now have a weaker bolt with a hole in it to use an extractor. Just did this on a broken motor mount bolt. Weld kept breaking off. But the drill did the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5.0calypso93lx]

You may be able even try this from the topside since that hole is open to the valley. Using a drill keep stepping up in drill size drilling the center of the bolt using plenty of PB blaster. After a few holes it gets hot enough to suck the lube in and break free. The good part is even if drill doesnt get it you now have a weaker bolt with a hole in it to use an extractor. Just did this on a broken motor mount bolt. Weld kept breaking off. But the drill did the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know! After really thinking about it last night I am just going to pull the engine out. I need to do VC gaskets and several other things where it would be so much easier with the engine out. I'm only a AC compressor and PS pump away from doing so, so I'm just going to pull it. The stock k member was pretty cruddy so it'll give me an opportunity to look over everything and see where my oil leak(s) is coming from. It will probably make the reinstall that much easier as well as I can put the trans on the engine outside of the car.

[5.0calypso93lx]

You may be able even try this from the topside since that hole is open to the valley. Using a drill keep stepping up in drill size drilling the center of the bolt using plenty of PB blaster. After a few holes it gets hot enough to suck the lube in and break free. The good part is even if drill doesnt get it you now have a weaker bolt with a hole in it to use an extractor. Just did this on a broken motor mount bolt. Weld kept breaking off. But the drill did the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What extractor did you use specifically?

[S281SC]

What extractor did you use specifically?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220408/4e14098e9bbaed23f3eb0bd365e3f806.jpg
I like this style. This is from harbor freight. We have an old usa made set that is no longer available but these short fluted ones tend not to snap off. I have seen better brands and slightly different designs but short/fat has worked better for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5.0calypso93lx]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220408/4e14098e9bbaed23f3eb0bd365e3f806.jpg
I like this style. This is from harbor freight. We have an old usa made set that is no longer available but these short fluted ones tend not to snap off. I have seen better brands and slightly different designs but short/fat has worked better for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried to drill out the bolt and my guess is someone has broken off an extractor or some type of hardened bit inside the original bolt. I bought some cobalt bits and they didn't make the slightest dent into whatever it is currently stuck in the hole. Besides taking the entire engine up to a machine shop I'm out of ideas on what to do.

Engine is now out:
https://i.ibb.co/ch27qG5/IMG-4344-002.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/yNrFSm6/IMG-4345-002.jpg

Didn't snag any pics, but got all the accessories off and got the front timing cover gasket and crank seal replaced after seeing this:
https://i.ibb.co/y5HpcLq/IMG-4348.jpg

Everything looked pretty good on the inside. Passenger head looks really clean:
https://i.ibb.co/pdhwd2K/671382552.jpg

Driver side head has a more golden hue to it:
https://i.ibb.co/HzWmzGv/IMG-4352.jpg

There have been a lot of things during this process that lead me to believe that this engine has been out before. RTV on a lot of the gaskets that shouldn't and several other signs. I ran into an issue last night where the pilot bearing wouldn't seat all the way and I know I have the correct OEM Ford 7600-B pilot bearing. After asking some pals about it they asked me why I had a 6 bolt crank and not an 8 bolt like all 96-98 Cobras have. Turns out I more than likely have a Mark Viii short / long block in the car. Can't confirm it, but it would explain a lot of things. I reached out to the previous owner and he said the "shop that did the work didn't say anything about that". Right. I'm sure they didn't tell you, you needed a different flywheel or that they were installing a Mark VIII engine...

Thankfully they clearly swapped over the intake mani, accessories, cam covers, trans, etc. The saga continues...

https://i.ibb.co/ZmHC4LK/IMG-4366.jpg

[Walter]

He had no idea!!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

He had no idea!!!

Dude just straight up stopped responding after I showed him all the issues I've run into. It's just weird all these issues with how clean the car itself is.

[Maximus]

Coyote swap time!

[Walter]

Got some brand new ARH coyote swap headers and new QuickTime SFI bell for ya!!

[redfirepearlgt]

these finds are reminding me of another ordeal that happened on here years ago. hate it for you james, but looks like you will have a real nice ride when its done on spite of the mk viii sb.

tell L and L hello and we miss them if you see them over easter. dag i love those 2.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Coyote swap time!

I wish!


Got some brand new ARH coyote swap headers and new QuickTime SFI bell for ya!!

I can't afford all your high rent parts


these finds are reminding me of another ordeal that happened on here years ago. hate it for you james, but looks like you will have a real nice ride when its done on spite of the mk viii sb.

tell L and L hello and we miss them if you see them over easter. dag i love those 2.

Will do! They've been having some issues here lately, but still kickin!

[5.0calypso93lx]

I had almost given up on this broken bolt, but some suggestions from a couple pals did the trick. Milwaukee makes a "heavy metals" cobalt bit. For whatever reason my Dewalt cobalt bits didn't do a thing. I even broke off a bolt extractor and still managed to get that drilled out. The only issue now is that I still never really got the old bolt out. It's just drill through. I did order a 8.5mm bit that arrived today as that is the size needed to be able to tap a M10x1.50 bolt size.
https://i.ibb.co/HpQX6V5/Bolt.jpg

Also went ahead and did a head cooling mod. This car will probably never need it, but it was cheap and easy. I will be scooping up some worm clamps for extra security at each of the connections:
https://i.ibb.co/XxPWLQC/Head-Cooling-Mod.jpg

For every 1 step forward I get on this thing it seems like I always take a couple steps back. Whatever headers I do actually have they don't fit. I bought them second hand almost a year ago and don't even remember who I bought them from. The front primary on the passenger side header goes right where the K member bolts to the passenger side frame rail. I was thinking maybe it was the mounts or k member, but I swapped both of those out for the stockers and the same issue persists. Ended up ordering a new set of headers on Saturday and those should be here on Wednesday:
https://i.ibb.co/MhdznTJ/Header-Clearance-1.jpg

Driver side has a mile of clearance:
https://i.ibb.co/dM490vr/Header-Clearance-2.jpg

Running ES poly mounts with the knub ground off and the stud through the front k member slot:
https://i.ibb.co/4mPhkzJ/Energy-Suspension-Poly-Mounts.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

Times like that call for one of those pneumatic vibra-peens. I've seen the mechanics at work do wonders with those little things to remove snapped off bolts like that. You've got determination man.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Been slowly making progress on this thing. The Mark Viii crank threw me off so had to get a 6 bolt flywheel. I thought I could use the old flywheel that came out of the car, but it was for an 11" clutch and didn't have the provisions for the 10.5" clutch pressure plate. Ended up picking up a new Ram Billet Steel flywheel for a Mustang GT and that did the trick. Clutch is now in with a new pivot stud, clutch fork and OEM Ford TOB:
https://i.ibb.co/3WzJDHH/4-27-22-7.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/cCPzZ2T/4-27-22-6.jpg

The real Pacesetter headers showed up and although not absolutely perfect, the fitment is WAY better:
https://i.ibb.co/NL4yJ88/4-27-22-5.jpg

Got a couple parts back from the powder coater. I was only planning on having the nasty looking coolant crossover done, but there was a $100 minimum so had the upper intake cover and a couple other pieces done as well. Was able to remove the stock intake and valve cover plaques and re-use those:
https://i.ibb.co/brLCdqp/4-27-22-8.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Wgd4zfY/4-27-22-9.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/hW0KYwK/4-27-22-10.jpg

Got the front suspension mostly wrapped up. K member, A arms, shorter end links, coilovers and spindles are all back on. I'm mad at myself for cheaping out on the UPR coilovers instead of going with the MM's. Even with the UPR coilover kit being "Bilstein specific" there are several pieces that aren't what I would consider to be correct. The MM kit takes all of these issues into account. These UPR's should still work for me, but not ideal (went a little heavy with the anti sieze :lol:):
https://i.ibb.co/5rzSf4T/4-27-22-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/GV0fXdw/4-27-22-1.jpg

The only thing I'm waiting on right now before I can drop the car back on the ground is the S&S engineering kit so I can get these bad boys on the car. Kit should be here on Friday:
https://i.ibb.co/N7xGFsN/4-27-22-3.jpg

Here's what the S&S kit consists of:
https://i.ibb.co/Wy2hZZC/4-27-22-4.jpg

[Maximus]

Freakin Sweet! Hopefully its back on the road soon!

[redfirepearlgt]

lookingsweet james. def getting intimate with that car. cant wait to see the final product.

[NXcoupe]

Who did the powder coating?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Who did the powder coating?

JSC right here in Goshen

[NXcoupe]

They did a good job. Little far for me to drive but could be worth it.

[5.0calypso93lx]

They did a good job. Little far for me to drive but could be worth it.

I normally prefer to go to Kenny, but this place is literally 5 mins from my house. I was happy with their work for sure.

[NXcoupe]

And they did all that for 100 bucks?

[5.0calypso93lx]

And they did all that for 100 bucks?

No, my fault. They have a $100 minimum so I added several other parts as I didn't want to do just a small alt bracket for $100.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Engine is back in and fitting nicely with the Team Z k member and ES mounts:
https://i.ibb.co/rb9721z/673042484.jpg

Did a quick paint job on the brakes:
https://i.ibb.co/GFh3BNj/Caddy-Brembo-1.jpg

Brakes are on and ready to bleed:
https://i.ibb.co/P5TFPQK/Caddy-Brembo-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DDDpYFQ/Caddy-Brembo-2.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

looks nice. What happened to the Cadillac logos? I thought that would have been really neat to have them on there to give it a custom one-off appearance.

[5.0calypso93lx]

looks nice. What happened to the Cadillac logos? I thought that would have been really neat to have them on there to give it a custom one-off appearance.

Thanks! Those are way under that blue somewhere lol

[Walter]

Much better!!!

[NXcoupe]

Looks great. Are those brembo stickers?

[draggin50]

The brakes look good! Any wheel fitment issues with those?

[2Fast4You]

Looking good

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looks great. Are those brembo stickers?

Yea, just had the wife order them off Amazon. I applied them after the paint dried and then cleared everything after that so you can't feel that they're stickers.


The brakes look good! Any wheel fitment issues with those?

Appreciate it. Shouldn't be. There are several guys running 17" Cobra R's, 17" 98 Cobra's, etc with this setup. They won't work with a 15" or anything like that, but I don't plan on ever running a drag setup on this car.


Looking good

Appreciate it!

[Walter]

They make 17x4.5 drag fronts fyi....

[5.0calypso93lx]

We are in the home stretch now. Need to get an alignment and have some exhaust work done.

I ordered up an 03/04 Cobra Cardone 222000 rack as these are supposed to give more feedback. Install was straight forward and lines hooked up like they should, but I'm maxed out on toe alignment on the passenger side. I have the tie rod threaded as far on as it will go and I have a feeling I'm going to need another turn or two to get the car in alignment. If I go the other way with it I just shift my problem to the other side. The steering shaft can only go on one way as it's triangular and the rack has 2.5 full turns from lock to lock. I guess I'll have to see how the alignment ends up once I take it in.

The matching X pipe for these headers also run straight into the oddball crossmember on these 96-98 cars so going to have to take it somewhere to get the headers mated up to the catback. Other than that I'm fluids and radiator fan / coolant tank away from starting the car. Wheels didn't clear the brakes so have some 5mm spacers that should be arriving today.

https://i.ibb.co/0q0wgTT/IMG-4660.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/vj30s88/IMG-4661.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/5k3wRVM/IMG-4665.jpg

[draggin50]

Man, making good progress!

I love the wheels! Going to be a fun car when its done.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Man, making good progress!

I love the wheels! Going to be a fun car when its done.

Appreciate it. Every time I feel like I'm making progress something always pops up. It just seems like aftermarket parts for these 04 and older cars don't fit worth a damn anymore. I personally think this Team Z k member is the culprit of several of my issues, but I'm already too far into this to change it up now. I have the engine set in the forward most slots on the k member and Frank at Team Z is telling me this is stock location. The problem is my oil pan is either sitting on or way too close to the main bar. I am running the prothane mounts. I am going to try and slot them 1/2" rearward to see if that gives me the clearance I need. Otherwise I'm going to try and space the motor mounts up and space the k member down at the same time. Ugh...

https://i.ibb.co/z7zMv7z/Oil-Pan-Clearance-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/ynfCTqt/Oil-Pan-Clearance-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/B2W0cKc/Oil-Pan-Clearance-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/f2LGV85/Oil-Pan-Clearance-4.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DVY6d1y/Oil-Pan-Clearance-5.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

reminds me of theat bellhousing and oil pan interference issue we ran into whenyou were in norwood. just lacks a skoshe of clearing. be worthit when its done. a bfh to the oil pan would make clearance. lol

[draggin50]

I haven't never seen one that close. The forward holes are the stock ones I think too.

I've heard a lot of people having issues with the Team Z stuff lately. Same for the UPR also. Quality control must've went out the window with Covid...

[5.0calypso93lx]

I haven't never seen one that close. The forward holes are the stock ones I think too.

I've heard a lot of people having issues with the Team Z stuff lately. Same for the UPR also. Quality control must've went out the window with Covid...

I confirmed with Frank at Team Z that the forward holes are the stock location holes. I could do the rearward slots, but then I run into header and oil filter clearance problems. It never ends... I'm really disappointed in this Team Z k after having run several in the past. The steering rack is off as well. I have heard several folks lately talk about fitment issues with Team Z. What I ended up doing was slotting the actual motor mounts. I've got them back on the engine. Hopefully get some time today to get the K member back in the car and see how everything fits up. Just maybe I'll get to hear this thing this week.

- - - Updated - - -


reminds me of theat bellhousing and oil pan interference issue we ran into whenyou were in norwood. just lacks a skoshe of clearing. be worthit when its done. a bfh to the oil pan would make clearance. lol

Ha I had forgotten all about that. I've definitely learned after messing with all this stuff over the years that aftermarket parts rarely just bolt on and work.

[draggin50]

Seems like they aren't the only one having quality issues lately. Must be Covid! A couple buddy's have had some issues with the quality of the HO Fibertrends hoods here recently too. They always fit real good in the past.

[NXcoupe]

Can you shim up the trans mount a bit? A lot of times it's the motormounts that cause that oilpan to K clearance issue, at least in my experience.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Ended up slotting the motor mounts where they bolt to the engine. That worked and I now have about 1/4 - 3/8" of space between the pan and K member now. Barring no more issues I hope to have this thing fired up by the weekend.

https://i.ibb.co/hWNnnJQ/IMG-4695.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/XZ7njYp/IMG-4717.jpg

I've got a pal coming over on Sunday to give me a hand with the 4.10 install:
https://i.ibb.co/KrgtK08/IMG-4723.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

I need to make the ground cable from the engine mount to chassis, but other than some fluids this thing is ready to fire up
https://i.ibb.co/3SsB8tn/IMG-4747.jpg

[Maximus]

Very Cool!!

[redfirepearlgt]

looks nice James! You are making me want to put Brembos on my 14 when I get some more money saved up.

[5.0calypso93lx]

looks nice James! You are making me want to put Brembos on my 14 when I get some more money saved up.

It was a very budget friendly swap. I needed brakes anyway. Calipers were 128 each, brake lines are the stock replacement Stoptech braided lines, pads and a mounting kit. Uses the stock rotors.

It lives! Got it fired it up yesterday and it runs seemingly good. Going to wait to go any further until my pal comes out this Sunday to help with the 4.10 install. Then I'll be able to put the driveshaft back in and add trans fluid. It goes to get aligned on Monday then have an appointment at Flowtek on the 31st to get the exhaust done.

[redfirepearlgt]

sweet.

[Maximus]

What model is the TREK on the wall?

[5.0calypso93lx]

What model is the TREK on the wall?

2019 Roscoe 8

[Walter]

Yoos a high rent mofo for real

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ He can sell it for gas money LOL!

[Walter]

We all may have to sell the cars and ride bikes haha

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yoos a high rent mofo for real

Bro my entire rig cost what your pedals cost. Stop it

[5.0calypso93lx]

Started the install on the 4.10's. I'm definitely learning a lot, but not sure this is something I want to do again for a long time lol. The right tools definitely go a long way. I'm still working on getting the backlash set. Right now I'm at .036 and I need to be between .008 and .012. I'm going to swap the shims tonight and remeasure and see if I can't get within range. Hopefully the pattern turns out ok after that
https://i.ibb.co/7WNFxgq/4-FD8-C5-BB.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/bz00CGy/9-C7-C0792.jpg

[redfirepearlgt]

4.10's woke my 2002 up bigtime. It was a blast to drive compared to the stock 3.xx that I cannot remember. I barely got it into the 13.s on 2.0 and slower 60's. Should make that car a whole lot more fun than its already going to be.

[5.0calypso93lx]

4.10's woke my 2002 up bigtime. It was a blast to drive compared to the stock 3.xx that I cannot remember. I barely got it into the 13.s on 2.0 and slower 60's. Should make that car a whole lot more fun than its already going to be.

I can't wait to hammer down on it to see how much of a difference the gears made. That is probably one of the things I'm looking forward to most.

The car made it out of the garage under it's own power today. I even made a lap around the neighborhood open headers LOL. Going to get an alignment here shortly. I'm also really happy with how the trans / clutch feels. Before I had this weird dead spot at the bottom of the pedal that made it feel like the pedal couldn't go all the way to the floor. I think that was part of the trans misalignment issue to the block. It feels super smooth now and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. It is letting out higher than I like and I need to make some adjustments there
https://i.ibb.co/SPYRdd7/IMG-4798.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Qv5RzKQ/IMG-4799.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Well it made it to the alignment shop and back home. It is LOUD :lol: Can't wait to get the exhaust done on it next week.

My pal Adam got the coilovers adjusted up front and got me all aligned. Really liking the stance on this thing
https://i.ibb.co/cNY6yw4/IMG-4803.jpg

[Maximus]

Wow! Stance & wheels are Sick! :cool1:

[Gearhead]

Awesome job James !! Looking at this thread gives me motivation to work on my junk !!

[redfirepearlgt]

awesome looking james.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks guys!

Got the exhaust wrapped up yesterday and I'm pretty happy with it. I like the way the Magnaflow catback tailpipes look for these cars, but not a big fan of the sound. The car has a Borla S type 99-04 catback on it and it had the huge 4.5" tips that I hated. I found some 2.5" to 3.0", 18" long tailpipes and had them swapped out. The car sounds WAY better, although it is way quieter than I was hoping for.

I still have several bugs to work through, but should be getting the car tuned on the 16th.
https://i.ibb.co/0YR16BL/IMG-4825.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Quick update on the Cobra. I had a leaky head cooling mod fitting on the passenger side which lead to the car over-heating and I believe popped a HG several weeks back. I haven't gotten a chance to pull the engine out yet, but I've got some nice white smoke out of the exhaust and the car won't ever get up to temp. I've got one of those big white funnel coolant kits where you can adapt the funnel to the reservoir cap. It just never stops lightly bubbling. I was pretty bummed about that and started looking at my options for the repair.

I was pretty set on just pulling the engine out and replacing the head gaskets until I ran across an engine on FB and ended up picking that up for a good price. I have a feeling the engine I'm going to be pulling out is a Mark VIII engine, which isn't a huge deal, but it will be nice having a Cobra engine back in the car.

New unit:
Teksid block
04 Cobra crank
Je Pistons
Manley H beams
Melling Oil Pump
ARP Main studs, rod bolts, jack screws, head studs and cam / crank bolts
DB 9 Thread C heads
New valves, guides and BTR SP008-32 valve springs
Stock 96 Cobra Cams
Mach 1 "lower" intake manifold

Not sure if I'll have the car back out this year or not, but happy to be moving in the right direction again. I have a bunch of mod motor parts for sale if anyone needs anything.

https://i.ibb.co/Ky6qLqJ/IMG-5207.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/NFVNVHv/IMG-5208.jpg

It's all new, but going to have Barker

[redfirepearlgt]

Nice find James. Let me know if you need a hand some Saturday. I can hand you tools if nothing else. LOL!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nice find James. Let me know if you need a hand some Saturday. I can hand you tools if nothing else. LOL!

Thanks Chad. I may take you up on that when dropping the drivetrain in. Can always use an extra hand when doing that. Barker told me 4 weeks to go through this one which is fine. Gives me plenty of time to get the old one out and prepped for the new to go in. The pump on my cherry picker took a dump so as soon as the replacement gets here I'll be dropping the engine off.

[S281SC]

Looks good james.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5.0calypso93lx]

Took a little longer than I thought, but picked up the engine yesterday from Barkers. Steve did a great job overall and his attention to detail and communication are on point. Can't recommend him enough. I'm excited to get working on this thing again and hopefully get it going just in time for winter :)

Engine specs:
Teksid block
04 Cobra crank
King Bearings
JE pistons
Manley rods
DB casting 9 thread C heads
96-98 Cobra cams
ARP everything
Modified oil pump pickup with GT500 windage tray
All new OEM Ford timing components
Melling High Volume oil pump
Wonder Racing 8mm billet steel tensioner pins
Wonder Racing modified primary tensioners

https://i.ibb.co/ZYMScL9/Engine-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/x24f3vB/Engine-2.jpg

Ground off the knock sensor bosses for the C head intake manifold fitment:
https://i.ibb.co/xMnyd91/IMG-6271.jpg

Sweet little MMR valve cover hardware:
https://i.ibb.co/PDyfkHz/IMG-6272.jpg

[Maximus]

Daaaaamn....Lookin real good! :cool1:

[redfirepearlgt]

sweet. NO mention of compression ratio so I won't assume its going boosted?

[Walter]

sweet. NO mention of compression ratio so I won't assume its going boosted?

I beg to differ!

[5.0calypso93lx]

sweet. NO mention of compression ratio so I won't assume its going boosted?

Haha! I am not 100% sure on the ratio to be honest, but the pistons are JE 314630 which are 9.5:1. I say I don't know because Steve called me last week about an issue with the timing cover upper rail (where the valve cover sits) being .040-.050" over the valve cover rail on the heads. So it sounds like the heads have been decked at some point. He was able to put the timing cover in the bridgeport and mill it down to sit flush with the heads. Stock compression ratio is 9.85:1 so I'm guessing compression is somewhere around stock value. Buttt I know I hadn't posted it yet, but I did pickup a Vortech V2 kit a few weeks ago as well as a 03/04 Cobra T-56, but those are just going to chill in the basement until I'm ready for them. Right now just planning on getting this engine going with the T-45 NA and enjoying it while I work a few things on the side. The problem with the blower is I think I'll start running into some fueling issues and this isn't the simplest of fuel systems to upgrade.

I did get a little bit of time last night to start cleaning up holes in the block with a tap and got the motor mounts and driver header installed. Switched it up to the Bassani mid-lengths as the Pacesetters just fit like poop. These Bassanis are light years better thought out and simpler to install. Might not make what the long tubes did, but I really don't care lol. Also trying to figure out where to route the flexible dipstick.

https://i.ibb.co/gV1ffwq/IMG-6289.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/QK15r34/IMG-6290.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Daaaaamn....Lookin real good! :cool1:

:bigthumb


I beg to differ!

:lol:

[S281SC]

I beg to differ!

Right. Mine is nearly 11:1 and getting a blower soon. E85, compression and boost are good buddies.


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[5.0calypso93lx]

Right. Mine is nearly 11:1 and getting a blower soon. E85, compression and boost are good buddies.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea the boost and low compression requirement has pretty much been thrown in the trash over the past 10 years or so

[Walter]

Yea the boost and low compression requirement has pretty much been thrown in the trash over the past 10 years or so

It really depends on the end goal. In many cases the low CR boosted setup has plenty of advantages. It all depends on power requirement, fuel used, turbo/blower etc.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Found some time this weekend to mess with this thing. Got the clutch and flywheel on. Went with the Mcleod Super Street Pro and a Ram Billet Alum flywheel (thanks Walt)
https://i.ibb.co/0Z1vprc/Ram-Flywheel-and-Mcleod-Clutch.jpg
Got the trans bolted up and was able to get everything in from the top even without dropping the K member like I had to do with the old long tubes
https://i.ibb.co/HGnZsfh/IMG-6432.jpg
Got it dropped in
https://i.ibb.co/JxjHBYJ/IMG-6438.jpg
Test fitting the Vortech coolant crossover and a couple other things. Intake manifold is just mocked up. Going to have it cleaned up before it goes on permanently
https://i.ibb.co/g30XGp0/IMG-6439.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got this adapter off a dude on SVTperformance forums. This allows the use of the stock B headed upper intake lid on a C head "lower" intake manifold. This allows me to use the stock throttle cable, air intake, etc. It's probably not ideal for flow, but I really don't care and just loved the way the 96-98 upper intake lids looked
https://i.ibb.co/N7Fmc8V/IMG-6448.jpg

Should look something similar to this when done. I need to clearance the adapter in a couple areas still
https://i.ibb.co/4JZ5xVH/IMG-6449.jpg

T56 waiting for a rebuild
https://i.ibb.co/qWJgL2L/T56.jpg

[Maximus]

Very cool!
Whos rebuilding the trans for ya?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Very cool!
Whos rebuilding the trans for ya?

Thanks! I haven't asked him yet, but I was hoping to ask Shannon Meyers if he has any interest in going through it. Word has it that he knows a thing or two about a manual trans so when I'm ready I'm going to reach out.

[S281SC]

Looking good james. How did the vortech coolant crossover work out for you?


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[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking good james. How did the vortech coolant crossover work out for you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! It should work just fine. At first I was thinking I had the wrong crossover and the B vs C head crossovers were different but they aren't. What's different with the C heads is that the lower intake manifold tabs protrude forward and actually go under the crossover mounting tabs. There is also a small spacer that must be used when using a Mach 1 intake manifold and that spacer is supplied in the Vortech hardware kit. I didn't think they were any different than 99/01 Cobra IM's, but I guess they supposedly are? I still need to dig through the hardware kit I have in the basement, but i'm sure it's in the pack somewhere. I do wish it were a little more "low profile" as it sticks up above everything quite a bit. I may eventually move to an MMR / Cobra Engineering coolant crossover.

[Walter]

Nice work James

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nice work James

Thanks pal!

[Gearhead]

Looks great James !! Nice work !
Threads like this help to motivate me to work on my stuff !

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looks great James !! Nice work !
Threads like this help to motivate me to work on my stuff !

Seriously just holler at me if you ever need a hand. At this point I owe you about 100 labor hours

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got a few small things done yesterday. Replaced the nipple deal behind the water pump to the stock o-ring style nipple to allow the use of the stock hard pipe that goes back to the driver side head. All the heater core hoses / cooling mod hoses are now done.

Ordered up the rest of the fuel fittings and hose I think I'll need. Going to adapt the stock hardlines where they come into the passenger side of the bay to -6 AN PTFE hose up to the rails. Then everything will again be -6 AN to the return. I need to get the intake manifold on and the CAI on so I can figure out where I want to mount the FPR. I don't have any one obvious spot I'm seeing right now. I am really thinking it may just be best to pull the doghouse and route a lot of this factory wiring behind the inner fenders. Not only do I need the room, but I think it'll clean the bay up a lot.

The Moroso coolant reservoir showed up and I got that mocked up. Not really loving the fitment. The hoses from the coolant tank and the power steering reservoir (both Moroso) are running into each other. Nothing is ever easy with aftermarket parts LOL
https://i.ibb.co/FYddVw0/Moroso-coolant-tank.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nothing super exciting going on at the moment, but just tying up the tedious odds and ends to get this thing fired up. Working on the fuel system now and adapting the stock hard fuel lines to -6 AN braided PTFE line using Fore rails and FPR. The Mach 1 intake manifold does not work with the stock 98 fuel rail and the 99+ rails don't have a return line so had to go this route unless I wanted to cut up the stock rail.

1/4" for the return and 5/16" feed push lock adapters by Russell:
https://i.ibb.co/jgGNgMm/IMG-6532.jpg

Adapter plate, upper lid and fuel rails permanently mounted. Going to run the stock 24lb injectors for the time being:
https://i.ibb.co/MMqrt9x/IMG-6533.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sCwdxJ6/IMG-6535.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Forgot about this place until Craig reminded me about it

Car ended up putting down 320rwhp on Lee Blankenships dyno in April of 2023. Got to enjoy the car all year and drove it up until January 2024. Took it out to Jimmys to have the SFC's welded in. Brought it home and started tearing it down after acquiring parts over several months.

Current setup:
-Same motor as above
-Swapped in a 03 Cobra T-56 with a 26 spline input
-Spec twin disc clutch
-On3 Gen 2 turbo kit with a Precision 7675 "LS" turbo and upgraded 38mm turbosmart wastegates out of necessity for clearance issues
-Fore fuel system with Bosch 210's and twin pumps. Primary is a TI 267 and backup is a TI 285 that I've got pinned to one of the Holley inputs to trigger with psi
-Holley Terminator X
-Truforged 18x9 and 18x11 Victories with 335's out back

I'm really close to firing it up. Need to make a wire and start on the ecu firmware updated and getting the startup tune built so I can check for leaks and any mechanical issues.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Couple pics when it was NA last year:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53941380867_00073662da_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbBFf4)IMG_0080 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbBFf4) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942282881_bf703e68ac_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbGio2)IMG_1961 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbGio2) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53941380302_bd25c56196_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbBF5j)IMG_0177 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbBF5j) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942531553_6a3681ee15_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbHzit)IMG_0200 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbHzit) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)

[5.0calypso93lx]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qbJ1Qb]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942617434_5883dbd458_b.jpg
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qbHzme]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942531713_25a0e8b853_b.jpg
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qbHYoN]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942609234_19e065c5cc_b.jpg
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qbHwUW]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942523518_929a701e06_b.jpg
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qbBCHL]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53941372382_637d013562_b.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

This is where I'm at now:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942739280_ef6d115ed3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbJD3Y)IMG_4585 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbJD3Y) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53942617649_6bf30867d7_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2qbJ1TT)IMG_4584 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbJ1TT) by James Fisher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/148460284@N07/)

[Maximus]

Its so nice to see that Im NOT the only one who can leave a perfectly fine running Mustang together!! :lol:

Looking Great! Keep the pics coming!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Its so nice to see that Im NOT the only one who can leave a perfectly fine running Mustang together!! :lol:

Looking Great! Keep the pics coming!!

Thanks sir!

It lives :cool1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geTY2jx_QnY