Lug replacement question

Cross threaded a rear lug changing the tires back to street yesterday. Tried to chase the thread with a die and apparently removed too much material in the process rendering the lug nearly stripped. Not surprised as bad a shape as it was in to begin with.

Q1: Do I have to pull the axles on an 8.8 to beat the old lugs out and press in new ones? If yes never mind answering 2 and 3.
Q2: If I can beat them out with a mallet do I need to block the axle up in some way to prevent damage to any bearing from the impact of beating them out?
Q3: Is there a way to use a large C clamp to press the new ones in with or is there a special press used to do this? I have also heard of people drawing them in using a lug nut.

Thanks

I believe you can pull the caliper and rotor then beat the old one out with a hammer. Slide the new one on align the splines. Then put a lug nut on it and use an impact to draw it in to the flange/hub on the axle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool! Thanks! Time to order some longer ARP lugs

Appears that if I replace the lugs with standard length I don't have to do anything but pull the caliper and rear rotor. If I want to do lengthened studs then the axles have to be pulled for clearance. Guess we will see come tomorrow night...if it doesn't rain.

If you pull the axles, press the studs in. You can cut off the old stud nearly flush with the axle to make driving out easier.

Pulling in studs works 90% of the time, but that one time when the ARP and lug threads get messed up and you have to do it again, not fun.

Thanks. I don't feel like tackling pulling axles in the driveway so I am going to pick up stock replacements and install them since they don't require pulling the axle. This way as long as I ma not rained out I can do it myself quickly enough. I'll pick up a few additional and make sure I take my time pulling them AND use the shouldered lug nuts from the race stars so there are more threads involved taking the load. Thanks.

You can using a C Clamp and deep socket to press in the stud. We have also used a ball joint install kit to do the same at the track (Mid Ohio)....

Good thinking. Thanks.

Thanks for the pointers. Went in without any issues other than smacking my fore head twice in the wheel well.

BTW - when the caliper and rotor is removed there is a clearance hole (at least on newer 8.8's that really help with this R/R. In fact I would almost guess there is enough clearance because of that access hole that the 3.15" ARP NHRA lug studs could have been put in without pulling the axle.