I moved to the other side and put the a/c compressor bracket onto the block with the hardware provided. It worked really well also, lining up perfectly.
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Printable View
I moved to the other side and put the a/c compressor bracket onto the block with the hardware provided. It worked really well also, lining up perfectly.
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I didn't take a picture of the rest of the a/c bracket install I guess, so moving onto the engine mount install. I had to grind the upper right hand corner off some to get it to clear the block and bolt on. Could just be the mounts I bought, but I tossed this in here just in case.
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You can see the mount clears nicely now.
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A/C compressor installed and motor mount installed. I used 97 GT motor mounts because we put a later model 4.6 Kmember in ours.
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Then I moved onto the 5.0 Alternator installation. I bought one off of an automatic car from a junkyard. It wasn't too expensive, I think it was less than 100 bucks, but you have to use an auto one because the manual trans ones have a clutch on the pulley that won't allow it to work in a reverse rotation application, which is exactly what we are going to do with it here.
The instructions say to use a grinder or a saws-all to remove these bungs sticking out of the timing cover and then carve a radius in the top reinforcement for belt clearance. This is how it looked after I was finished.
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Then I bolted on the tensioner and their alternator bracket.
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I put the alternator and all the belts and tensioners on per the instructions and it all lined up and worked perfectly. I'm really happy with the kit.
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I put the valve covers, intake, fuel rails, wiring, etc, all on it and got it ready to install. Dave sent me a link off of dramabook that claimed a set of stock headers would work in a foxbody, so we gave it a try.
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Of course you can never find an article once you've read it on dramabook, so we had to try to go from memory and cut both flanges off as it said they needed to be rotated.
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Here it is ready to go in, or so we thought.....
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After wrestling with the stock headers for quite a while, we had to remove the engine and remove the headers, because, yeah, they'll work, if you don't want to steer the car. The steering shaft would need lots of modification to go around the headers imho, so we removed them and finally sat the engine into the bay.
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It's getting there. I ordered a flywheel from spec, so the steel flywheel and centerforce DF clutch are going in this week. Then we have to finish up the a/c connections and wiring up all the other little things. I've got most of the wiring figured out and Dave wired up the fans to the controls pack, so this week should yield a lot of progress.
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Looking good!
You're going to have two great cars to play with.
Looks like you're having the same issues I had. I don't know anyone with my setup. Ive probly ran into 20 different issues that I had to change something else. Change one thing. Then you have to change five more. So everything is trial and error. Its worth it in the end I hope lol. Its amazing how much different the mod motors and LS motors are.
Nice work Mike.
Looks good Mike, the PBH brackets are next up on my list. I had to notch the motor mount just like you did to get it to bolt up as well so that makes me feel better. I already have a mustang front cover sitting on the garage as I was told I would need that to use with the PBH brackets. I got an alternator with my truck engine, hoping it is still good, as it should work with the kit since it was the original truck(automatic) alt.
So what did you figure out for the steering and headers?
I am guessing this is the reference you used for the stock mustang headers.. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...breeding-easy/
They dont say much about fitment around the steering shaft.
As nice as it sounds I opted for a set of swap headers from BBK, not fancy stainless but they were one of the original sets out there and they seem to have good reviews for fitment.
We are still looking around to see what's out there as far as headers go. A manufacturer was jerking us around promising to build a set for us in exchange for using the car to do so. Well after 3.5 months of procrastination, they finally said they were too busy and couldn't do it. So now we are back to square one. Got a flywheel, so clutch and bellhousing are going on today finally. Then wire up starter, etc. I'll be soldering wires today from the factory harness to the FRPP controls harness. Going to try and get the gauges working on the factory dash as well.
Any updates on this build?
Tons of progress, but no time to host and post pics and write up an article. Maybe this weekend things will slow down a bit and I can find some time to do it. Been working a lot on Dustin's car and my truck puked so had to fix it as well. Tomorrow is coyote fox day. Trans should go in.
Wow, been a while. I ended up getting bbk headers and x pipe that shayne helped me get on the car. We had to remove the front suspension twice once to get the headeds on, and second time for clearancing the headers. Not much was needed to get them to fit with a stock kmember, a slight flattenning of one tube for about 3" or so. Kmember is back in and all tightened up. Brakes are final assembled and bearings packed, etc. Picked up a like new 2.95 first gear T5 and swapped that into it, got radiator hoses and such hooked up but still looking for a nice degas tank to put on. Found a ground wire that needs run back to the battery so that's on the list. Still need an aluminum driveshaft and a 3" catback. Got the fuel system lines figured out and plumbed. Fired up the fuel pump and no leaks.
Getting so close now.
Car cranked over yesterday! Just made sure the starter worked. Have to do a few more little things before we crank for oil pressure. I'm getting excited.
pics!!!
We have oil pressure! First few cranks it got 20 psi or more!
no pics???? Need to see it to believe it. :)
Car runs. Need to get a new hosting site, now that I have a little breathing room.
Well, finally got this out from under another one and back on a rack. Neil and I got the tank out and redid the lines that got messed up 2 years ago and pretty much soured me on this thing til recently. So redid the lines and moved the filter further downstream out of the way. Now all the lines are routed correctly and hopefully no more leaks. I need to order some -8 and -6 hose ends to finish under the hood too. Then finish up the brakes on it as well. Pics soon.
Gonna be a cool car when its finished. The old 4 eyed cars have really grown on me over the last few years. And a coyote to boot!
You guys have made good progress in the last couple weeks.
Thanks man. Means a lot. There's some cool shit rolls out of my place, I just don't beat my chest and scream look at me! I do it because I love making cool cars and making people's dreams into a reality. Wish I could do more.
We have been working on this thing pretty feverishly trying to get it finished and ready for sale. I'd like to debut it at the spring swap car corral.
Here we are, all these years later. I am going to finish this car and sell it. It has a lot of mixed emotions with it, I really just want it gone. This was supposed to be a 6 month turn and burn, and here I am 8 years later, and it still isn't finished. That changes now. Neil has been instrumental in helping me get this thing to the point it is now. I go out and work on stuff through the week and on weekends, with the goal being to have it for sale at the spring swap. The big hold up now is the steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports. I ordered it in December, and still don't have it. I called today and they said possibly in three weeks.
I hated the roll cage, just hated it. The passenger side interior quarter panel plastic was in really bad shape, the driver's side wasn't as bad. I bought a nice one, but the old one just would not come out. Turns out the bar was closer on that side, and the panel just would NOT slide out no matter how I tried it. I wasted a lot of time on it and finally, out came the sawz all. I sliced it off the mounting plate flush, and then used a come along to pull the bar over out of the way. I got the old panel out, new panel in, and then released the strap. I put my antique port a power in and positioned the bar to its new location after I had ground the plate down and the bottom of the bar. I laid a great bead on it and called it done. Since then, I had to pull the panel out AGAIN, but this time, it slid right out because of the new location.
NOTE: The panels look like two different shades, but they are not. Both are out of a 91/92.
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I cut out the kicker bars, as they were angled forward and limited the movement of the front seat rearward. I figured if a bigger guy wants to own this, he would want the seat to move back. So I cut them out with the sawzall as well.
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The to front down bars also bugged me because they were bent in to far to clear the armrests. I like it to be about 1/4" away from the armrest, these were more like an inch, maybe a little less. This caused the bar to smash the side of the factory seats. I decided to install swing out kits on both front down bars. They really weren't too bad to install and they look fantastic, especially laying in the back hatch area, yuk yuk.
We prepped the interior to protect it from grinding and welding sparks, and I set to work with the cut off wheel.
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Lots and lots of measuring before cutting and ended up with this! I really like this setup a ton better.
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Everything painted up with Rustoleum Hammered Black. It matched up really well.
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Next up I needed to make a radiator hold down that would be kind of neat and one off. I bought a tool that allows me to bend steel round stock and square tube. I think it turned out really nice.
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I needed to mount the combination radiator surge tank and power steering reservoir somewhere, and we had settled on the driver's inner fender area, but while admiring and critiquing my work, I thought, what if? and then I set out to add onto the radiator hold down and mount the tank off the radiator.
I bent the rod, and then set about getting it made. Jason was kind enough to weld tabs onto the tanks for me, since I still cannot weld aluminum, well, for now.
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I really like how it turned out. It left the driver's side nice and clean looking now. This is where it belongs.
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I needed vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator and for the HVAC controls, so I removed the useless evap valve, and tapped it out to 3/8" pipe and put a small nipple fitting into it, then ran silicone hose to the fuel pressure regulator and hooked up the HVAC to the other end of the T.
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We are starting to get down to the short list, so I moved onto the top of the door moldings. We also replaced the damn quarter windows, which not being able to get the panel plastic out of the way made it a real bitch! These moldings were just dead looking and had some chips out of them, so on went the new and improved!
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lookin good!
Thanks Chad!Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
We've been really busy on this thing over the past few months. I need to get it done and in someone else's garage! Where do I start? At the front!
So this was just an absolute pita, mainly because I had never done this before, and fortunately, I had an extra nose I could rob small parts off of. It was missing a spring that holds the corner of the headlight bucket into place and allows adjustment. All in and looks good and it even works. It's the high beam on the inside that I had to put in. It's been missing in all the pictures of it since I got it.
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Since the roll bar was all done, we decided to move onto the interior assembly. The big wrench in the works was, you guessed it, the roll bar yet again! We were trying to figure a way to get the rear seat delete kit in and notch it for the roll bar, so I took a thick piece of cardboard and traced the delete part onto it, cut it out, and then used that to make a pattern for cutting the notches for the bar. The big deal was getting it in there with the 1/4 panel plastic in there, so out came the passenger side yet again. We finally got it all ironed out and installed, then had to wrestle the plastic back in and then underneath the delete panel. It was not fun at all. But I think it looks amazing. KDesigns did the delete and I can't recommend them enough. My wife used her Green Machine and cleaned the front seats up, I pulled them back out of the car because they just looked awful. She got them really clean and looking pretty good. I don't have pics of those hosted yet.
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I was sick of looking at the black truck intake, so I played around with different silvers I had on the shelf and settled on one. I masked it all off with plastic bags (cheap), and then scotch brite on all the surfaces after using simple green and water to wash the dust and crap off of it. Then wiped it down and sprayed it.
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With the interior pretty much finished, I moved onto the rear end. I cleaned up the rear Trick Flow cover and it turned out really well. I used brake clean to get the grease off, then used simple green to get the balance of the dirt off. I then sprayed it with oven cleaner and let it soak in, then sprayed it down again, and let it sit. I washed it really well with water and then let it sit and dry out. It looks terrible when it's wet, looks blackish, but once it dries, I think it turned out great. Looks like new.
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I decided to put discs on the back of this thing after giving it a lot of thought. I want it to bring really good money and I don't want any thing left undone. I had the turbo coupe stuff off of red rocket sitting in storage, so I grabbed the discs and calipers/pads/brackets off of it and then called North Race cars (northracecars.com). This rear end has 9 inch ends on it, so it required a different bracket to work with these disc brakes and the 9 inch bearings. they sent them to me and although it took some massaging and cutting a notch to slide over the axle flange, since the bearings were already pressed on, they worked perfectly. I cleaned up the rotors and the calipers so when it finally warms up and stays warm, I can paint the front and rear calipers. I also gutted the metering block and used the plug I got off of ebay. I have an adjustable proportioning valve on its way, should be here Wednesday. I'll install it and we'll bleed the brakes and it should be ready to go onto the dyno.
Today I got a really nice kit from LMR, has the special brake cables, brackets, and handle cable for a disc conversion. I got the cables on, now I get to disassemble the entire interior I just assembled to get the damn parking brake handle out to modify it. Oh well.
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Looks great!!!
Thanks man, means a lot coming from you, your stuff is always perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walter