That's a nice saw!
I just bought a Hitachi a while back. Havent even used it yet.
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That's a nice saw!
I just bought a Hitachi a while back. Havent even used it yet.
^^ DUDE! That's like buying a buying a GT500 and trailering it home and only going into the garage to look at it. You gotta at least make a crosscut on it! Hitachi's are nice. I looked at them (they are under a different name now). I like the way the bearign guides are on a 45 with each other. Provides better stability side to side. But the DeWalt was too good a deal to pass up.
Metabo bought them out.
Its a nice saw. I will be putting it to use here soon.
https://i.imgur.com/Ovy6HWh.jpg?1
The big hold up has been getting the old frig and freezer out from behind the staircase.
https://i.imgur.com/r8nFhmz.jpg?1
It happened today. We took them apart and had to cut up the freezer to make it fit through the doorway at the top of the stairs.
https://i.imgur.com/0EM4gMX.jpg?1
Now its on to framing and insulating. The area behind the stairs will be a maintenance area and more storage.
Makes you wonder how they got it down there!
We looked closer at the frame work after getting it out. Apparently the house was built with no doorway to the basement in 1940. Based on the age of the freezer the doorway must have been framed in sometime after 1975 so the freezer has been down there since then. Mom who does interior decorating also stated that the trim work on the door frame was too new to have been original. In spite of this getting that unit into the basement even with the wider doorway back then was a feat. It would have had to come in the back door on end, then turned 90 degrees on the very small entry way landing and then taken down the stairway to the basement. I'd like to meet the guys who did it. They would be 'moving marvels'.
What are you planning on for a screen? I've thought about building something like this in my house, but it seems like people always run projectors to get the big screen, and I don't think it's worth putting all that money and effort into it to watch a projected image.
Now that a 77" OLED is under priced $5K though, a quality display in a huge format is becoming a reasonable option. Samsung has some 82" QLEDs out for around $2500. You can pick up a 2019 model of that 82" QLED for under $2k. They have 98" models now too, but those are $60,000 still. LOL.
Damn... I still have my console TV. Maybe I need to upgrade!Quote:
Originally Posted by IWRBB
75" LED Sony 950 series. Was looking into projection setups but there are two reasons I won't go that route. 1.) The room is 14x17 roughly so I am pushing it by going 75" (at 108" viewing distance) as being too big. 2.) Projection screen setups don't function well in normal light. So if you want to have the guys over to watch NCAA BB at tournament time the lower light can be undesirable if you are serving food.Quote:
Originally Posted by IWRBB
4K video wise suits me more than well. I only buy 4K if the audio is a higher quality than on Blue Ray since the current DVD player I have converts 1080i to 4K very nicely.
The primary focus is audio. I am doing Atmos as well as rear speakers so atmos and 7.1 can run as needed. The Yamaha RX-A1070 receiver I am currently running will finally be able to flex its full capability. Monitor Audio and Paradigm will make up the speaker setup initially. The two are very complimentary with each other so as deals come available I will slowly convert existing paradigms to Monitor audio.
I have to empty the bed in the truck of some shrubbery I pulled out of the front yard flower bed for the mrs., and then I can go start picking up the foamcore insulation. After that its frame work. Slow but surely. Hope to have it functioning by October.
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You need to do a Coyote swap first. LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin50
Framing has begun. Started framing what I thought would take the longest first. Working around ductwork. Hope its parallel with the starcase. It hold 1/8 inch along the length to the basement wall.
https://i.imgur.com/j7oiWCY.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/AHXm9Rd.jpg?1
Lookin good! You going to do some storage space under the stairs?
Yip. The area back there will have a work bench and some shelving. Combo maintenance utility area. Stair will be closed in using 1/4 or 3/8" backing of some type. Just going to run it the length of the steps on the back side.
Another 16 ft of wall is framed up. Put 1/4" R1.5 Fomular series150 Corning on the wall before starting. Will be putting 2" R10 of the same between the studs before the green drywall goes up. But that's step 95 and I'm on step 14. Nice to be making some progress on this. It's been in pipe dream form for almost a year and been a fantasy thought for decades.
HINT - The Foam insulation is moisture resistant and mold resistant. When putting it up with an adhesive you must use Loctite P300 FOAM adhesive (or an equivalent) or the adhesive will melt the foam insulation. Foam board is NOT foam core insulation. Any multipurpose adhesive claiming it can be used for Foam board or similar is not able to be used with this stuff.
https://i.imgur.com/xWYPVox.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/F0Y1llz.jpg?1
About 80% done on framing now. Ran out of 2x4.
https://i.imgur.com/diTlFvB.jpg?1
Next will be electrical AC and low voltage and insulation. Unfortunately it sounds like the old truck has a collapsed lifter in CYL 3 so will be without a way to pick up more lumber until its fixed.
https://i.imgur.com/diTlFvB.jpg?1
Looking good! Sucks about the truck...
Thanks. Learning a lot.
Yip. But it is 21 years old. Its may be my fault partly as I should have been changing the oil every 3K rather than 5K since I was driving such a short distance to and from work each day and that is all it would mostly be used for. I've taken it for granted over the years (had it for 8 years) and should have given it more TLC. Its paying me back now.
I can start doing some electrical prep work and soforth while waiting on the truck.
Got the truck back and back at it. Three walls have R11 added between studs, some outlet electrical pulled, and the short fourth wall studded up. Outside walls have R13 total on them with the R1.5 backing I put up before starting the walls. Everything in contact with the concrete direct is either pressure treated lumber or foam insulation that is moisture resistant, and mold resistant. That is all over top of Dry-LoK extreme (2 coats) and also Special mold/mildew resistant primer (two coats). All cracks and loose mortar joints repaired as well. Final main room dimensions will be 150"x180"
https://i.imgur.com/qXkRsdL.jpg?1
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https://i.imgur.com/AyeJEjN.jpg?1
Finally found something that does not require sanding and creates tons of dust (DRYWALL....YUK!) to cover the walls in. Its a gray weather beaten ship lap panel. The vertical trim pieces as well as the base boards will be stained in a gray weathered look as well. Just a mock up on the first wall that is finished. Finally looking like something more than a skeleton of a dream.
That Looks Great Chad !!!
Wow! I like! So what's the first film that will be debuted in this media soiree?
Thanks. Still have to pull ethernet ceiling atmos and rear speaker wiring pulled before I can move much further on the wall covering. Still haven't decided if I am going to sub floor using the DRI-CORE system or just put down an approved pad and carpeting. OF course the drop ceiling has to be done before the floor can be addressed however. Still plenty to do. Probably won't be ready to use until January or February.
Soft opening - Undecided, have to work that out with the mrs.
Grand Opening - SHELBY V FERRARI
Wow nice work sir!!!!
Wow! Looks fantastic!
Thats looking real good!
Lighting is up and working. Halo Canless lighting with Leviton LED dimmers (Diva 153 models). I have done research on these LEd canless lights. Many have issues with flicker and/or hum when dimmed. These Halo units with the Leviton LEd dimmers work fantastic. The 15-18" cable between the controller and the light housing assembly allow you some wiggle room when final mounting of the light goes into a drop ceiling panel. The LED housings are metal and not plastic. The lens for the LED looks like a conventional bulb and not just a cheap piece of flat plastic over the LED array. IF you are looking to upgrade existing lighting or doing a remodel/expansion you can count on these. Only down side is to inspect the connectors on both the LED unit and the controller before starting. I had 1 broken in the box with no damage. Not worth gettign worked up over given how well everything else on these are made. Just took it back and got another one. These units have 5 color settings. The unit is currently set on the middle one. In the picture they are all turned up to maximum. Next ceiling grid kits for the 24x24 acoustic tile ceiling.
https://i.imgur.com/KTWnzL0.jpg?1
Man that's bright!!! You are doing a killer job on it!
Like
Looking good!!!!
Coming along Great Chad !!!
thanks guys. Getting ready to order the drop ceiling supplies. Need to rent a 360 degree laser level to lay out the lines for it. Still plenty of panel and finish work to do on the I-beam, jack post, and east short wall adjacent to the staircase. Itching to get the TV. Black Friday (are we still permitted to say that comrades?) is soon upon us.
The ceiling came in Saturday. Got part of the grid installed and did a fit check on four panels. Look forward to having the ceiling in so I can get the lights in their final location, order the Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers and get them hooked up as well as move on with base boards and trim work. The 75" Sony 900 series got ordered Saturday. Big thanks to Shawn at Alamo Electronics for the early notice on Black Friday deals.
No hats, no people over 6'6" tall and no standing high fives for people taller than 5'5".
https://i.imgur.com/sCOF3tA.jpg?1
No jumping?
I should be good then!!!
Looks great Chad! Gonna be real nice when done!
You cab jump and high five. ;) Ceiling height is only 79 - 81.5 inches off the floor. Older homes like this one have only 7 ft ceilings in the basement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walter
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Hopefully only I see the mistakes. LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin50
Looking good Chad
Thanks Shayne. Means a lot coming from a guy with carpentry and construction background experience.
Nice work Chad! Looking forward to seeing this completed. You had some clear goals the last time I stopped by.
Thanks Joe. Took a while to get the motivation after getting the details straight. Had to tear out those make shift wood shelves (if you remember) buy some new industrial grade replacements, and then go through and pitch or move all that stored stuff onto the new shelves. Then the real fun began. It's taking longer than I had hoped, but it's getting there. Hopefully as long as I don't run into any hitches - like possibly working myself into a corner - the ceiling will be done by Wednesday and I can begin measuring for corner molding and bade board trim. I still have some on the stairwell yet to do as well as deciding if I want to just enclose the existing jack post (its not an adjustable) or cut it out and put in a new one because it is out of plumb in both planes by at least 2". I need to make a custom door for the laundry room as well because that doorway is directly under the heating duct and only has 74" clearance(32" wide though). A standard interior door is not available in that height that I have found. Last will be carpeting and padding and of course a SUMP PUMP backup system for the french drain system that only runs when it rains heavily outside. Then comes the fun of setting up the system.
Ceiling is finished and awaiting the Monitor Audio CS160 ceiling speakers to fill the two remaining holes. Armstong makes a great product. Their packaging could stand some improvement as FED EX Baboons damages one of the four grid kits and 3 acoustic panels while in transit. It always pays to order 10% more than you need. The quick adjust hanger system they created for this kit is phenomenal. Took me about 18 hours to complete on the first attempt at ever doing a drop ceiling. Levels out very nicely and allows for final adjustments. I suggest picking up a Bosch laser measure tool ($30) to measure final support rail and cross tie cut pieces. Simply shoot to the wall where the wall molding for the ceiling is mounted and subtract 3/8" of grid pieces and 1/4" off acoustic tile measurements.
Next up painting the bead board, installing and painting molding and trim.
https://i.imgur.com/he7eWd7.jpg?1
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https://i.imgur.com/cWOVJwf.jpg?1