Ok, we need to get together and see what we can do to get it lined out for you.
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Ok, we need to get together and see what we can do to get it lined out for you.
That looks really really good man! The wheels are perfect!
That car has such a good look to it!
Thanks guys! Got to enjoy the car quite a bit this weekend at the Milford Kroger cruise in and the Back the Heroes car show in Batavia:
https://i.ibb.co/gD4LdLK/IMG-1202.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/74dmsd0/IMG-1204.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/SVxZXbG/IMG-1212-002.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/DG1X7sY/IMG-1214.jpg
Thanks Mike! I have a new TPS connector I got on Friday that I am hoping I can depin the old one and install the new. Also have a new IAC on the way. Should be here Wednesday. Trying to eliminate the things that I know aren't good on the car and do a little maintenance.Quote:
Originally Posted by NXcoupe
Also if anyone knows of a stock OEM black 96-98 Cobra hood that is really nice I am looking for one
Put a new IAC on the car last night and also replaced the connector for the TPS. No difference in idle and still idling around 1200rpm. I need to find a good vacuum diagram and take a look at everything there next
https://i.ibb.co/wcJRBCM/IMG-1250.jpg
Is it tuned?
It was apparently tuned before I bought it by STLMustangs HQ (I bought the car from a guy just outside of St Louis) for the emissions parts removal. Smog pump, egr, purge valve, etc. The previous owner told me he took the smog parts off the car because of "some emissions related check engine light". From my research that would make sense as the car has to be tuned to turn the EGR off. I also read that the Theft light flashing on the dash can be a result of the car being tuned or the ECU being tampered with in some way. It is the stock AOL3 ECU as I did confirm that last week. The more I dig into troubleshooting the car the more I think the idle issue is related to the emissions parts removal, aka vacuum leak somewhere, or the tune itself. The car runs fine and pulls good otherwise, but this idle / rpm hang issue is super annoying.Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMS SVT
Found this ground strap attached to core support leading nowhere. Unhooked the batter while replacing the iac and found it:
https://i.ibb.co/djSB5zy/IMG-1239.jpg
This is unplugged back by the rear passenger side of the bay. I think it's the evap purge solenoid plug.
https://i.ibb.co/MRL7H0P/IMG-1245.jpg
^^^ If you are trying to identify a vacuum leak without a vacuum gauge, and you have a hand held programmer with ability to datalog short term and long term fuel trims you may be able to tell this way. Observe that LTFT's with the car idling. If there is a vacuum leak you have unmetered air. So the car will want to run lean. The ECM will see this and try to correct for it by adding fuel which can be seen in the STFT's and especially LTFT's. When you increase the throttle vacuum decreases (moves toward 0" Hg). As it does the trims will then correct again because the ECM will see AFR getting richer as the air coming in seeks the lesser route of resistance (TB is opening so engine is seenig more metered air) because the vacuum leak becomes less as throttle position gets closer to WOT. Ford describes this basic technique in their shop manuals.
Check the link out. Its for a 2005+ but it still tuning basics 101 troubleshooting for most modern day fuel injected cars.
https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=8&f=Adaptive...niques.pdf&p=1
Hope this helps.
There is a vacuum port that goes to the passenger valve cover pcv valve. It is basically right under the throttle body opening on the intake manifold. This has a short rubber hose that has been know to come loose or deteriorate.
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So I just had that off putting on the JLT intake. I am familiar with the older style pcv valves that was on the back of the intake manifold on my 1993 Mustang. This car has nothing like that (and it was like that when I got it in my defense). It's just a straight open fitting with the hose connected to it that goes to the intake tube. I will take a closer look. Do these 4v's have similar PCV's like what I had on my 93? Because right now I have just an open fitting.Quote:
Originally Posted by S281SC
That definitely makes logical sense to me. I do have a new SCT X4 so I will dig into that and see if I can't figure out how to view those tables. Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
^^^ Download and install LIVELINK II (free down load) from SCT's website. Its free. This is a datalogging software package that will let you choose the PIDs you wish to monitor. Its actually easier than trying to configure the handheld IMO. Plug the tuner into the car, tether the device to your laptop with a printer USB cable (same cable you use to upload a tune into the X4), start the software click guide me, and follow the prompts. If you run into trouble call me one evening and I think I can remember how to walk through it though its been a while.
Thanks Chad, I am definitely going to try this.Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
Got a smoke machine on the car last night to check for any vacuum leaks. Besides the small amount coming out of the IAC vent I am seeing nothing. Everything is looking good there. I did get the rpm set to 600rpm with the IAC unplugged and checked TPS voltage. It's at .88 which I show is within spec. As soon as the IAC is plugged back in it wants to shoot up to 1200rpm at idle in neutral. This is with both the OEM IAC and a brand new Hitachi IAC.
I bought a little restrictor plate for the IAC and it doesn't help with either IAC either:
https://i.ibb.co/NFDMr3m/IMG-1263.jpg
I do have a couple of codes, but 1 is for the TPS which I was messing with, 2 are for the purge valve which was removed and the other 2 are imrc related. After clearing all the codes the 2 purge valve codes come right back, but the other 3 aren't back yet, but still have the high idle issue even before the 2 imrc codes exist:
https://i.ibb.co/KzZgzF3/IMG-1163.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/JH4YqYz/IMG-1164.jpg
P0122 -> Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch (TPS) A Circuit Low Input -> Had a busted TPS connector and replaced it with a new connector
P1516 -> Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error Bank 1 -> Not entirely sure what the deal is here. Both sides spring open and closed fine and previous owner says that nothing with the IMRC's was ever messed with
P0443 -> EVAP Purge Control Circuit -> Purge valve is gone entirely
P1445 -> Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Condition -> Same as above
P1519 -> Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed -> This is the other IMRC related code.
Chad, here is also a pic of the LTFT at idle. It definitely seems odd to me how high these values are. I'm not sure what the "acceptable" value of change is, but 17-23% seems really high to me.
https://i.ibb.co/GpjbBh0/IMG-1292.jpg
The LTFT's are high. That is correcting for the unmetered air getting in I suspect. I believe on an SCT 1.00 is optimal (no correction needed) where as on a Lund tuner device LTFT optimal is 0.00. If that number begins to drop as you increase throttle your EGR find is a good start. Delete the stupid thing. It is only there for NO emissions which only happens in lean (above lambda 1.0) with hot engine conditions. "Stick it to the man!!" as the liberal hippies love to say. Tear that thing off and delete it. Remember that at idle - the most difficult part of the tuning process - a little bit of unmetered air has a large effect. You are splitting hairs, even with a stock setup. It's the one of the two most time consuming and difficult parts of the tuning process. I never realized that until I read Greg Banish's book on tuning, and then comfirmed that with 3 tuners locally. I always like to discuss what I have read with the pros to know if what I have read is current and accurate.
Was not aware that IMRC plates were being used before 2005. Interesting. Those devices will also cause problems from reading about them. as I recall aside from sticking it seems that they can allow unmetered air in around the actuators IIRC - at least that has been known to happen on 4.6L 3V engines when they get miles on them. A lot of people eliminated them when they started turning on the power even at the earlier stages of upgrades.
^^^ Stand corrected. SCT X4 will also show 0.00 LTFT's at optimal. Positive number indicates adding fuel and neg number means pulling fuel. Sorry for the confusion. Been out of it for a while.
Been very slowly working on this thing here lately. I wanted to fix a couple things that I knew were problematic and that's actually helped out in other areas. I was having issues where the car would completely cut out either going around turns or getting on the throttle when the car had under half tank of fuel. Got the tank dropped to find a On3 340lph pump in the tank. The car has a stock tune on it so what I think happened is that the pump burned up due to the variable voltage electronics this car has on it stock. My understanding is that a non-variable voltage pump will die quickly if it's not seeing full voltage, but a variable voltage pump will live just fine with constant full voltage.
https://i.ibb.co/MgpVCyf/Old-Pump-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gFydP1Y/Old-Pump-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Qn1nVsc/Old-Pump-3.jpg
Replaced the On3 pump and modified basket with a new Walbro / TIA Automotive 255lph setup from LMR.
https://i.ibb.co/c3Vh97b/New-Pump-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/7Ypq5H9/New-Pump-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/P6xkvCH/New-Pump-3.jpg
Crazy how well the car runs when it's getting all the fuel commanded :lol:. I put a 1/4 tank of gas in it and went around some turns and no more cutting out. The idle is also significantly better. It is also making my clutch issue more prominent as a 3rd gear pull on the highway had the clutch slipping like crazy when I hit 4500rpm. That's the current issue I'm tackling and hope to have it replaced here in the next couple weeks.
Got started on the IMRC delete as well. The top two trans bellhousing bolts are super fun to get for the clutch replacement to so I decided that going ahead and pulling the intake mani to do the IMRC deletes. Big thanks to Jimsvt for his help throughout this and he was dead nuts on about there being tons of build up in the runners in the heads where the IMRC valves were. Hopefully pick up some power by just cleaning out each runner:
https://i.ibb.co/bvY9JVD/IMRC-Delete-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/ccpg4zw/IMRC-Delete-2.jpg
Pulled the trigger on a carbon LSB spoiler. I've got an authentic saleen, but the fit isn't quite where I want it and I personally really like the look of these newer LSB customs / GT350 style spoilers:
https://i.ibb.co/hCKtDVX/LSB-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/3BT02C3/LSB-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/s5vXmRm/LSB-3.jpg
Unfortunately I found a crank in it and it's going to be sent back. Won't get another for about a month, but the guy has been great to work with and is sending out a new one no questions asked as soon as he gets them in. Sent me a prepaid return label and has been very timely with his communication. So far so good as long as I can get a good spoiler at the end of the day.
:cool1:
lookin good jason. lack of fuel supply will cause ltfts to go high to correct for a lean condition. that constant speed pump as you stated is not designed for the variable closed loop system. good find.
looks great man. im hoping to have something here soon. i have now missed out on three i wax looking at.
Appreciate it! It's a tough time to buy for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
I'd love to pull that old tune off of your car and see what it looks like.
Crazy what good fuel pressure will do for one!
I'm guessing it's just the stock tune with some of the emissions stuff turned off.Quote:
Originally Posted by NXcoupe
It's the simple things :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin50
Dyno tune is officially scheduled for June 16th. Crazy how far out tuners are booked nowadays!
DAG! I'm getting old James. (not Jason...haha). Sorry.
I got a brother named Jason so close enough :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
Feels like anytime I do anything to this car I find some mind boggling stupid head issue. Today's find is this beautiful work. I know the shop that did the work on this car and I wouldn't wish my worst enemy take their car there (it's no one local or even in any state attached to Ohio).
https://i.ibb.co/0KVG0n7/Durrr.jpg
This would be the knock sensor harness wedged in between the engine block and the bellhousing. I think the worst part about it is they couldn't get a bolt started because the harness is in the way so instead of trying to figure out why they just left the bolt out completely and tightened the others.
The good news is I now have both top bellhousing bolts out with ease from the top and all of the driver front suspension came out with zero issues. Hopefully get all the passenger side stuff out tomorrow and get started on dropping the exhaust and trans.
Wow, just wow. That is def causing issues.
u have to b kidding me. i cant believe that hasnt chaffed thru and shorted that 12vdc bus to ground causing ax many issues as the loss of a knock sensor. makes you wonder if they have knock turned off in the tune.
Doubtful they are off. That had to be shorted being crushed like that.
Yikes. On the 05 and 11 schematics the knock sensors get their source voltage straight from the ECU/PCM. If that signal is not grounding completely out and is only pulling the source low (not enough to be a short to ground just low resistance to ground) across a low resistance it would be causing all kinds of issues with the PCM bus voltage throughout where ever that voltage is commonly used internally. Likewise the TPS also gets its voltage source from the ECU/PCM. I would guess the IAC may as well though there is no IAC on the 05 or 11 being they are throttle by wire setups. I just hope that has not damaged the ECU/PCM unit internally. If it has this would be one of those extremely rare moments where I would encourage someone to disclose who did the work so others do not fall victim to their lazy and pathetic work ethic. That is not an oversight. That is a rush job by someone who didn't care at all.
Chad, you very well could be onto something as I always had high idle issues with this car. I replaced the IAC, searched for vacuum leaks and always came up empty. I'm not for certain that is the root cause, but it would definitely make sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
I got the trans pulled this weekend and found some other interesting things with this car. Here is the knock sensor harness or what's left of it:
https://i.ibb.co/kqSD9SZ/Knock-Sensor-Harness-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/SK2d1S1/Knock-Sensor-Harness-2.jpg
The clutch, albeit a cheapy Clutch Max kit that is $279 with a flywheel, looks to be in surprisingly good shape. I was talking to Walter and the theory is that with there being so much separation between the block and bellhousing where the above harness was pinched it could have caused major misalignment issues allowing the clutch to properly grab. The symptom I had was the car would free rev underload at about 4500-5000 rpm in 3rd gear:
https://i.ibb.co/KhQ6vBc/Clutch-Max-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/v4TD5xR/Clutch-Max-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Mc2rGqG/Clutch-Max-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/852Yb2Z/Clutch-Max-4.jpg
If I get time today I am hoping to get the stock k member pulled out so I can start on replacing the oil pan gasket and start getting the LT's installed.
https://i.ibb.co/jwyCMG5/Cross-Bar.jpg
Another fun item I get to fix is that while these ding dongs were smashing the harness in between the block and bellhousing they were simultaneously trying to get that bellhousing bolt started. Instead of checking to see why the bolt wasn't fully engaging my guess is they just kept cranking down on it until the bolt snapped off in the engine block taking a chunk out of the harness with it. Fun times:
https://i.ibb.co/N9pRft7/Rear-Main.jpg
The shop in question is a shop near St. Louis. I have an idea, but I truly don't know for certain which shop did the clutch so I can't name any names without knowing for sure.
I dont miss working with jackstands, at all! :D
I been trying to get Walter to put one in his baller ass garage for years now. That way I can use it :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
Making progress! I guess better to find it all now and be able to fix it while its apart. Sucks either way though.
I wouldn't know what to do in Walters garage! Id be afraid to spill something!
Exactly. It's just never an easy clutch job lol. Hell, I'm afraid to fart in Walts garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin50
Thats probably why he hasnt. :lol::lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0calypso93lx
Stock K member is out, pilot bearing replaced, rear main seal replace and oil pan gasket replaced. One piece I've been stuck on is this bellhousing bolt that's broken off in the block. I attempted to weld a nut to the bolt by building up some slag on the broken off bolt and welding a nut to it, but the slag isn't enough close to being strong enough to holding while I try to turn the nut once it's welded on. It just breaks off immediately with minimal effort.
https://i.ibb.co/HVn9HgW/Stock-K-member.jpg
Another fun issue I've found. This is the harness from the battery to the block. You can also see someone added the black cable with orange tracer goes from the motor mount bolt to the inner frame rail.
https://i.ibb.co/d7sMFPP/Ground-cable.jpg