How is the limited slip diff install going?
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How is the limited slip diff install going?
No where at the moment. The car really isn't running well. Once I figure out I'll probably start working on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Fast4You
I'm wondering if you bent a rod like I did? I had a cylinder that was low as well, but the head gasket wasn't damaged at all. I can't wait to get the engine out and apart to see what failed. Ever thought about putting a dohc engine in yours with the turbo?
I measured the piston stroke with calipers and the measurement was right at 3.14" or 80 millimeters on all cylinders. I didn't remeasure my valve shim clearance. I wonder if the valves are not closing all the way. I'll check that this weekend. As for dohc motor I have thought about it. The Money involved in doing it is fairly expensive. I'd probably part my car and go lsx, 5.0 or 350 and it would be cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by NXcoupe
It has low vacuum at idle and goes up if I give it gas. I either got the timing wrong, gasket leak, incorrect valve setting or the rings are not sealing well. I'll check for leaks with a pressure tester tomorrow and check valve clearance sometime soon.
I'm going to probably put new rings in it. I'm planning on going to save up for a whipple, tvs or KB for the Cobra. In the mean while I'm going to start selling some parts off this I don't need and whatever else I got for one. I'll just keep this Volvo a 13 second car for now.
Still quicker than a lot of GT 4.6 2V's with bolt ons and some 3 valves.Quote:
Originally Posted by PKFIRE
It just as fast as I hoped. Heck maybe after some rings It maybe faster. Still is a fun project without the worries of huge $$ signs if something goes terribly wrong. I'm going to put building this 4 cylinder on back burner though.Quote:
Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt
Its still cool to see this car run as good as it has! Impressive for sure!
I'll still run it. I'm at a point where the build is getting more costly than I intended for it. It's still fun to get the locals confused that a old brick can run pretty decent with mostly oem parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by draggin50
This is one of my favorite projects. I need to tear my donor engine down this weekend. Going to have Oreilly's get some rings and bearings in for me, then do the hone and carwash block clean, then assemble it. I'd like to do springs and valve job, etc, on the head, but we will see how that goes. This engine ran and did not smoke a bit, so hoping it will be a good runner and last a long time until I can build a forged shortblock with ported head.
I really enjoy you're project also. I'm sure I'll get itch again to do something different to the car. Having a desk job makes me want to work with my hands when I get home somedays. The Cobra I would never put EBay and junkyard stuff in it. More of a great bolt on car that I want to keep pristine for years to come. I now and again think about going 2011+ Mustang or a new RT challenger but I don't think it would make me any happier.
I like reading your project as well. Gives me hope that mine will run a decent et when I do get it to the point that I can race it. Right now the bellcrank clutch linkage is crap and delays the release of the clutch from all the stuff flexing. I want to go to a turbo coupe hydraulic setup using the Mcleod master and TC slave cylinder. I think that will speed the release and allow me to shift it the way I want to. Any progress on yours?
I haven't made too much progress since I strained my shoulder I keep reinjuring. Luckily a MRI shows I didn't tear anything.
The progress I did make is that it not pulling too much vacuum to stay running at base idle. There is a bunch of blow by now but it's not smoking. The compression was low on two cylinders. I'll either install new rings in it or if my buddies brother-in-law sells me a Volvo motor that his grandfather rebuilt before he passed away for the right price I may just do that. I'm hoping it's the same motor because I haven't gotten that confirmed yet.
I'm back at it again! My shoulder is getting better finally. I'm tearing out the bottom end and probably getting it bored and honed. The bore Diameter is spot on according to my bore gauge but there is step/groove at the area where the rings stop at right at full upstroke. It would be good to get this cleaned. I wonder if I could just run a ball hone and get it smoothed out. I've only honed one motor and plus one cylinder before this. I didn't have to do much work on those motors because the bores we're in decent shape. Maybe any of you guys can chime in before I decide to take it to a machine shop next week.
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...psghhc7x5y.jpg
Just checking if my engine lift was big enough to reach.
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1vndbi9g.jpg
Ring ridge cutter would take care of it. Probably a little easier and quicker too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3319134...&ul_noapp=true
I just found out autozone has one in their borrow a tool program. Thanks for the info! As far as I can tell it's all I can see wrong with bore. I'll see more once I get the pistons out.
Good to hear! I think they all get the same ridge over time.
Pulled the motor yesterday. The motor is pretty dirty. I'll start tearing it down soon.
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...psajydo1v2.jpg
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...psw9siycsk.jpg
Taking the assembly apart so far everything looks good other than the cylinder bore looking kinda of glaze other than the typical cross hatch. I think I maybe able to just hone it and put it back together.
This weekend I'm going to finish taking the rotating assembly apart and check the bores to see how out of round they are. I hope they are in spec because std rings are easy to find and much cheaper than oversized.
This upcoming week I'm taking my motor to the machine shop. If the block needs bored I'm going to need to get new pistons. So I'm trying to decide at that point I just get forged pistons and h beam rods. If I do that then that opens the door for future mods. If I just go with new cast pistons I would just leave it where I've gotten it. I guess I will have to decide soon.
Best bet is to go ahead and do it while its apart. You know that you will continue to do mods and that will give you more options in the long run!! I guess it all depends on what the future holds for it.
Yeah it's the best thing to do. Next step would be better engine management, transmission, exhaust manifold, fuel pump, turbo and more head work or 16valve swap. I could go 5.3 now but then lots of downtime and fabrication but I would have to modify a 5.3 to make it faster than what my car is now. It would be so much easier and faster to just put a tvs in my Cobra and do a basic rebuild on the Volvo. Though I would probably kick myself when I get an itch to go faster in Volvo again if I didn't upgrade the bottom end.
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...psyqegzwmb.jpg
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszueuvcmo.jpg
Tore the motor down after lunch.
Pistons are wore out. A Volvo engine builder said that .004 or larger ring groove clearance would cause excessive blow by. 0.004 fit in between all the pistons top grooves. It should be 0.001 to 0.002 clearance.
Dumb question. What is that shaft next to the crank in the box?
Looks like a balance shaft.
Accessory shaft, it drives the oil pump and the distributor.
Gotcha.
Tomorrow I'm taking my motor to machine shop. I talked to various performance vendors for this motor. I learned the stock rods are good to 350whp, stock pistons are good to about 500whp and the block is good to about 700whp before it needs modified.
I'm thinking about just h beam rods and new factory pistons. They said that the custom order pistons have better geometry since the rod is longer and the piston rotates in the block more easier. The one thing is those forge pistons are 4-6 weeks out and 600-800 dollars. Stocks around 300 oversized. H beam Rods are about 400 with arp bolts
That sounds like a good plan though. I cant believe that the stock parts are that good but that's impressive!
There are some 6 second drag cars overseas that run 6 second quarter mile runs with the old 2.3 block.
Ahh, I need a new Block. The block needs bored .030 minimum and the limit is .024 for turbo applications. I guess I'm on the hunt for one now.
Man that sucks! Is there any stock blocks that will work that are stronger? I know you said the block was good for around 700. Im sure if you get to that point, you would upgrade more than just the block though.
http://www.maxxtuning.eu/customer-ca...-turbo--johan/
I guess with good head work you can get these sohc's to flow 700 whp. Here's one making 681 whp on E85. I don't know any specifics on what blocks are out there for it. I found a penta boat block that I may buy. I believe they have forge cranks but this will be a bare block. The 1993+ B230s have oil squirters. I never thought about making much more than 350 whp in this car.
I located a few motors. I should be picking one up next week. The guy is ok just giving it to me. He said if I feel like it I could give him a smaller car part. I couldn't follow all the builds but he's building a 700 plus horsepower big block GM Volvo. He has another built small block Ford Volvo also. Pretty cool stuff.
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...psvgihjgkn.jpg I picked this short block up today for 135 dollars in Springfield Ohio from a guy who built a 16 Valve B230 engine for his 240. He decided to buy a 1960s Volvo Amazon and he is parting his build. Lucky for me he cleaned and painted this motor and added a an10 drain tube. I'm going to add stronger rods to it. He even cut reliefs for a 4 valve head into the pistons from a rental jig. I should be getting another motor soon to build on the side. I guess I'm not done building it yet.
good deal. will it make a pass this year ?
Possibly, maybe later next month.