Im not a big gt fan either and I think it looks killer. Makes me wanna mini tub my car
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Im not a big gt fan either and I think it looks killer. Makes me wanna mini tub my car
That thing would look better under a tarp in the back yard. I will compliment you at a later date, just not feeling it today.
Killer looking car and an awesome build! :bigthumb
car looks awesome Greg
The car looks absolutely freakin' killer Greg!! :bigthumb
Peace :cool2:
James
Thanks for the compliments. Should have some more progress pics up in a few weeks. :)
Looks great Greg, I saw it at Jason's and it was looking better each time I saw it. He got it straightened out and looking killer. Any updates lately?
that looks badass!
Well, got the holidays out of the way and my garage back in order so I'm finally getting some work done again. Going to start this phase by getting the brakes done and then who knows from there.
A few of the pieces I have going in:
Racecraft manual conversion
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/045.jpg
Skinny Kid brake line kit
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/049.jpg
Maximum Motorsports manual brake pedal kit
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...MBAK-11_LG.jpg
Ran into a potential problem when putting the master cylinder in. I bought the Racecraft kit because they make the smallest adapter that I know of and the master cylinder sits REAL close to the header. Need to figure out something about it, I'm not liking how close it is. I have a different master cylinder that gives me almost 1/2" more clearance but I really want to use the Strange master. Even with the 1/2" more clearance it's still too close IMO. Nothing is ever easy with these things.
:bangwall: :drunk:
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/038.jpg
That will self clearance.
Figure I'll throw up a few before and afters of the rear hatch area etc.:
BEFORE
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6004Medium.jpg
AFTER
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/050.jpg
BEFORE
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...4052006016.jpg
AFTER
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/052.jpg
BEFORE
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...4052006017.jpg
AFTER
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...d%20GT/051.jpg
Looks wicked Greg!, as you already know that's some top notch quality work you've just posted up! :bigthumb
Peace :cool2:
James
So is that gonna make it out in 2012 Greg?
Brake fluid is subjected to very high temperatures, especially in the wheel cylinders of drum brakes and disk brake calipers. It must have a high boiling point to avoid vaporizing in the lines. This vaporization is a problem because vapor is compressible and negates hydraulic fluid transfer of braking force.
Quality standards refer to a brake fluid's "dry" and "wet" boiling points. Wet boiling point, which is usually much lower (although above most normal service temperatures), refers to the fluid's boiling point after absorbing a certain amount of moisture. This is several (single digit) percent, varying from formulation to formulation. Glycol-ether/dot three/dot four/dot five point one brake fluids are hygroscopic (water absorbing), which means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. Non-hygroscopic fluids (e.g. silicone/DOT 5-based formulations), are hydrophobic, and can maintain an acceptable boiling point over the fluid's service life, although at the cost of potential phase separation/water pooling and freezing/boiling in the system over time - the main reason single phase hygroscopic fluids are used.
Boiling points for common braking fluids [1]
..........Dry boiling point ... Wet boiling point
DOT 3 .. 205 °C (401 °F) ... 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 .. 230 °C (446 °F) ... 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 .. 260 °C (500 °F) ... 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 .. 270 °C (518 °F) ... 190 °C (374 °F)