Education please....

[Waffles]

Okay, I just bought my 96 Cobra about 3-4 months ago and I've read a shitload since. However, I'm getting VERY confused when looking into modding the motor. I read pi and non pi, or this and that intake, and none of it seems to apply to my car.

So here are my questions:

Are there good swaps for the stock heads on the Teksid 4v Cobra motor? If so, what are they?

Are there good swaps for the stock intake on the Teksid 4v Cobra motor? If so, what are they?

I've heard that you have to practically remove the engine to swap in LT headers, is this true?

Cams?

The Teksid block is supposed to be good to 1250hp, the crank to 1000, but the pistons and rods only to 450-500... true or not?

If this is true, then a supercharger or nitrous should put me approximately at the engines theshhold, so doing much more needs forged pistons and rods. If I'm going to go that far, should I go with a stroker crank?

The cranks are different for the Teksid than any of the other blocks aren't they? If so, how hard are they to find?

Thanks in advance.

[02mingryGT]

I don't know nothing about those years Cobra motors. Try ModularFords.com or a new site I go to now ModdedMustangs.com. Or an oldie but a goodie SVTperformance.com. I'm sure they can answer any question you have.

[Black Hole]

Heads....best first....FR500, 03/04, 99-01, 96-98. 03/04 are the best deal.

Intake....depends on application, but generally stock is fine.

Pistons/Rods are definitely the weak link.

Headers on any modular are a PAIN IN THE ASS.....and yes, it's usually easier to pull the motor part way or drop the K-member.

4V's really like blowers.....stock motor with an S-Trim or Kenne Bell and you'll easily find 400+ RWHP. I'm fond of root's style blowers.

Modularfords.com is a good place to start.

03/04 Cobra would be a GREAT swap.....so would a 03/04 Mach I if you want to stay N/A.

[Waffles]

Any thoughts on the stroker rotating assembly?

[srootster]

your heads flow like crazy already. your intake can benefit from a short-runner mod IF you charge it. your rods and pistons are good to @ 450hp, the rest of it is good til you start breaking other stuff. if a charger is in your future i'd just throw some rods, pistons and short-runner the intake. the weak link is the rods, pistons and T45. other than that you've got a beast!

[srootster]

also...

LT's are not that bad to install but your manifolds flow pretty well to 450+hp so worry about that later. there are no aftermarket heads because yours already flow way too well. intakes are limited to sheet-metal custom jobs but are really not necessary imo.

[Timido]

Tubular K member will be your friend if you put long tube headers on

[Waffles]

So do the K member at the same time?

Also, what do you guys think about pullies? I know the Cobra has underdriven pullies already, but not as underdriven as the aftermarkets from Steeda etc. I've heard that you shouldn't underdrive the waterpump, which certainly makes sense. However, there are a million of these things out there so I wonder.

When I got the car I was told it had an 03 Cobra aluminum flywheel. The stock flywheel I believe is 21.5lbs, and the 03 Cobra flywheel is 12lbs. That's a big difference in weight. It just doesn't seem to me, to rev any faster than other Cobras. Should it be noticable?

[Black Hole]

I would definitely do the K-member if you're gonna do LT's......that's the only way that I'd do em on my 03. Less weight, better weight transfer, and more room to work.

[Waffles]

PM sent to Black Hole

[01cobra]

I wasnt real happy with the K member on a friends car. Damn thing makes all kinda noise. Im guessing if you use spring perchs instead of coil overs it would eliminate the noise. IMO a set of gears is your best purchase. After that just start saving your money for an engine rebuild so you can boost it in the future. FYI I got a set of hooker LT's and set of used CP pistons if ur interested.

[Waffles]

Already did gears, here's a list of my current mods...

- BBK Twin 65mm TB
- C&L MAF
- Steeda Tri-Ax shifter
- 04 Cobra alum flywheel
- Nitrous Express w/bottle heater & BMN window switch
- 255 lph Walbro fuel pump
- Steeda subframe connectors
- Campbell X pipe
- 4.10 Ford gears w/posi
- BBK clutch adjustable quadrant
- BBK firewall clutch cable adjuster
- Ford King Cobra clutch
- Power Slot rotors front
- Nitto drag radials 275/40 17s
- K&N Filter

Also, PM sent...

[Rick93coupe]

I wasnt real happy with the K member on a friends car. Damn thing makes all kinda noise. Im guessing if you use spring perchs instead of coil overs it would eliminate the noise. IMO a set of gears is your best purchase. After that just start saving your money for an engine rebuild so you can boost it in the future. FYI I got a set of hooker LT's and set of used CP pistons if ur interested.

It had to be the coilovers making noise. There's really no downside to an aftermarket K-member, so If you planned on buying one, definitely get one before the header install.

[Waffles]

I'll probably do them at the same time, I guess. I've been trying to research about what to buy. If anyone has suggestions, please feel free to voice them.

[01cobra]

It had to be the coilovers making noise. There's really no downside to an aftermarket K-member, so If you planned on buying one, definitely get one before the header install.

I think most of the noise is the coil overs but the control arms (aftermarket ones) also have squeeks in them. There are no grease zerks for them either. There is no doubt the aftermarket K will open things up for the headers. Just pointing out the drawbacks that Im aware of.

[05yellowgt]

What are your goals for the car?

B head's in a boosted situation can make tons of power no problem. n/a they pretty weak compared to other 4v designs because of the huge flow of the intake side with not much velocity.

[na svt]

n/a they pretty weak compared to other 4v designs because of the huge flow of the intake side with not much velocity.

your heads flow like crazy already. Your intake can benefit from a short-runner mod If you charge it.

Well, some of this is true and some is not. First, B heads do not "flow like crazy", the ports as way too large so the intake velocity stinks and the short turn radius is god awful. All other 4.6 4v heads flow more CFM than B heads.

A short runner intake will benefit an n/a motor far more than an FI engine. Normal gains provided by a short runner are in the 15-20rwhp at peak power and up to 30rwhp after peak. I've made a lot of these and those that have gone on n/a motors have resulted in better gains.

Also, get rid of the IMRCs, they are a PITA and losing them will free up a few hp.

[NXcoupe]

I like my UPR kmember on my car, but on a cobra the oil filter sticks out pretty far because of the oil cooler. My look at a PA or similar. Headers: I have installed quite a few different sets, and the MACs are the easiest to install in my opinion. BBK's are good units but the top bolts are a pita.
IMRC's remove them! You will find that one side is carboned up and may just be restricting the IMRC from opening all the way. Once removed, the port will stay clear and clean.
Boost it, and keep it below 450 rwhp, and you will be fine for a long while. A leak down test on the engine will tell you the condition of your rings and cylinder walls, so you can make a decision on boosting or rebuilding.
Just suggestions.

[brncoupe5.0]

I would like to see under the hood of thaty car..

[5.0calypso93lx]

Make sure to wrap the strut bodies with duct tape when installing coilovers. Helps out with noise. Also, throw a layer of silicon on the upper/lower spring perches.