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Thread: Amp Suggestions?

  1. #1
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    Amp Suggestions?

    I posted this up on another forum I'm on but figured I'd post it here as well and see if some of you had some insight for me...

    So I'm looking for a good 4 channel amp to power my front components and to bridge it to a 10 inch sub I just now bought for my piece. I'm not looking for anything crazy just something that will work good with both of what I have. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, I've never even had an aftermarket amp or sub in any car I've owned so that's why I probably seem like a noob to this lol. Here's a link to the components and sub if you wanna look at there specs.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...pa+50.9cs.html
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...nce+1062W.html
    1988 Mustang-306 with Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Track heat intake, Anderson N-41 Cam, 1.6 roller rockers, Ron Davis aluminum radiator, full exhaust, and full bolt on's.

  2. #2
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    I like JL Audio stuff. Their JX360/4 would probably work for your situation and shouldn't break the bank.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin



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  3. #3
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    Nice, looks like it would be a oerfect fit and about what I was looking for price wise. Thanks man.
    1988 Mustang-306 with Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Track heat intake, Anderson N-41 Cam, 1.6 roller rockers, Ron Davis aluminum radiator, full exhaust, and full bolt on's.

  4. #4
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    Make sure your amplifier choice is able to support 2ohm impedance stereo on the front two channels while driving the rear two channels @ 2 ohm bridged. If not you will be shutting down on overtemp every 2-3 minutes when you push the system beyond classical music listening levels!

    The infinity speakers you purchased are 2ohm vice the standard 4 ohm,. The reference sub (I have one in the box in my basement) is either 8 ohm or 2 ohm impedance depending on how you wire the voice coils. You cannot wire each voice coil to a separate channel. It can damage the sub. Therefore the amplifier must also be capable of supporting channel 3/4 bridged and 2 ohm stable mon, while at the same time maintaining the stability of the fronts.

    Most MFGR's make lower line mid and upper line series these days. BE CAREFUL not jsut to buy label but to by what is needed or you will paythe price in the end. JL audio is a good product on the mid to upper end. Never used their lower stuff. Diamond Audio again good mid line series, never let me down once in my last application. Ran D/A D6 series amps and comp series speakers with 12 inch Boston Acoustic sub sealed. The D6 series will fit your needs as will a comparable JL Audio series.

  5. #5
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    JL's lower end stuff contains most of the same parts as their higher end stuff. When I started using their stuff the only difference between their slash series and the entry level stuff was the expensive power supply in the slash.

    Good call on the impedance. With that in mind you would probably be better off with a dedicated sub amp or at least a multi channel amp with a dedicated sub channel so that you aren't running bridged channels at 2 ohms. That more or less has the same effect as running the channels in stereo at 1 ohm. JL's specs don't show the JX360/4 as being 1 ohm stable. The XD700/5 would be the killer choice. You could also get 2 of the 4 channel amps and bridge the front channels on 1 voice coil and the rear channels on the other but if you were going to go that far you might as well just buy a mono amp.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin



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  6. #6
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    I agree with the two amp direction if the budget allows. Ebay can really save you some green skins. I have used them almost exclusively for three of my previous four builds. NEVER HAD A SINGLE PROBLEM ON ANYTHING USED OR NEW. Just be skeptical. IF it sounds too good to be true it is! Either way you go just don't forget - impedance, impedance, impedance.

  7. #7
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    ...and watch the shipping charges. I have found that most new electronics are close to the same price as buying it in a store when you add in the huge shipping charges some people charge. Last time I was looking for a head unit I would find the ones I was interested in on Ebay and they were $30 cheaper than any of the local stores but they would charge $50 for shipping.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin



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  8. #8
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    How would a 3 channel amp do since I wouldn't have to bridge it? I'm trying to avoid running 2 separate amps because my battery already struggles enough to start somewhat of the higher compression motor.
    1988 Mustang-306 with Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Track heat intake, Anderson N-41 Cam, 1.6 roller rockers, Ron Davis aluminum radiator, full exhaust, and full bolt on's.

  9. #9
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    Again - impedance, impedance, impedance. If it all matches use what you want.

  10. #10
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    I don't think I have ever seen a 3 channel amp but if such an animal exists then it would need to be 2 ohm stable. If its a 4 channel amp operating as a 3 channel it needs to be 1 ohm stable. Either way make sure you allow plenty of room for cooling, especially with a 4 channel that has been bridged because it will get HOT.

    The battery shouldn't be an issue at all since the electrical system is running of the alternator when the car is running. How big of an alternator do you have? If you have something other than a stock fox alternator w/out an underdrive pulley I don't think it will be an issue to run two amps.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin



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  11. #11
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    It's a 130 amp alternator (I think), so it should be good. The amp I was looking at is rated at being stable in either 2 ohm or 4 ohm, so I should be good right? Here's a link to the one I was looking at...

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ifier+Kit.html
    1988 Mustang-306 with Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Track heat intake, Anderson N-41 Cam, 1.6 roller rockers, Ron Davis aluminum radiator, full exhaust, and full bolt on's.

  12. #12
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    re

    If you want a great amp that will power all your setup look into this amp. I use to own a car audio shop back in the day and won alot of events with DLS . The best sounding speakers and amps period. I use to judge Iasca events and nothing out there comes close. I run this amp along with DLS 8s in my doors and it will blow you away. The sound quality is unreal

    http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_10 can be had for $549 retail is over $1000
    Last edited by Chris Lazzo; 12-01-2010 at 03:38 AM.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 306Power View Post
    It's a 130 amp alternator (I think), so it should be good. The amp I was looking at is rated at being stable in either 2 ohm or 4 ohm, so I should be good right? Here's a link to the one I was looking at...

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ifier+Kit.html
    That's kind of an odd configuration but it would work.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin



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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 306Power View Post
    It's a 130 amp alternator (I think), so it should be good. The amp I was looking at is rated at being stable in either 2 ohm or 4 ohm, so I should be good right? Here's a link to the one I was looking at...

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ifier+Kit.html
    It will produce sound. Plenty of people run the brand. Should be a good basic amp. The bass control is a nice option.

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