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Thread: Learning H.S. Buffing/detailing...

  1. #1
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    Learning H.S. Buffing/detailing...

    I finally dropped the dime on a Porter Cable 7424XP DA Orbital Buffer, (free wheel design) and a Meguiar's Startup kit. I began by working out the hood on my 99 F150. The truck has been washed a total of three times in over 5 years of ownership. Sits out year round. So after washing only the front end I clay bar detailed the hood and fenders. After cleaning I set up to start a test area. Ended up needing 8 sectional passes on the 105 Cutting liquid and then 6 sectional passe on the 205 Polishing liquid. 3 hours later the hood was complete, looked great, and I had consumed an afternoon of ultraviolet enough to be two shades darker on my farmers tan. Everything looked great for being factory paint and 19 years old. Swirl marks gone. Shine back in the clear coat.
    First id anyone has suggestions on doing front and rear bumper covers and how to perform the section passes on them without marring and what I may need to do them please let me know.

    Sunday afternoon I set up and began on the Mustang. I was able to get te results I was looking for with 6 sectional passes on 105 and 6 sectional passes on 205. The results are very nice. The swirl marks are gone and the paint shines and looks great. Completed the hood with a coat of Carnauba Wax by Blackfire detail products. The paint looks deep and glassy. Very happy with the results. I did the roof today.

    This sure does take time, but once completed it will be easier to keep up with. I've gained a whole new perspective and respect for paint and detailing skilled tradesmen. Man this is extensive. Of course a professional would be using a buffer that could do the work in half the time, but buffers like that which can burn right through paint aren't ideal in the hands of a novice and can run upwards of $500+.

    One note on Meguiars 105 and 205 series products. They do a fine job but they generate a lot of dust. That I do not like. Future products I will look into are products by Chemical Guys and Black Fire like the Carnauba wax sample i received.

    I will post photos of the final product when done. Too much work just staying motivated to complete this task without adding photo shoots to the process.

  2. #2
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    hey mine is next right?

  3. #3
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    Naw, sorry. The wife has dibbs.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt View Post
    Naw, sorry. The wife has dibbs.
    just tell her that I am in desperate need lol!

  5. #5
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    Cant wait to see how I turned out.

    A side note, how are you hosting pictures now??? Photobucket is a rip now and I deleted everything from there.
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  6. #6
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    When I use polishes, I wet them before taking them off- no dust that way. There's no need to remove polish dry/hazed. Spray it down with a spray bottle of water and it wipes right off.
    2003 SVT Mustang Cobra
    11.40@124
    Pics, mods, track videos, other stuff..

    The rest of the fleet:
    2019 Edge ST
    2015 Taurus SHO
    2013 SVT F150 Raptor

  7. #7
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    ^^ Thanks for the tip. I will try this tomorrow. I've got one rear 1/4, trunk lid and front bumper left. Then its on to the wife's car. It's not show car perfect but all the spidery swirl is gone where I have worked the paint. Before I start on the wife's car I am gong to try a wet sanding on the truck with some 2000 and 3000. I would like to learn a technique for paint chips eventually.

  8. #8
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    Doing paint chips is fairly easy. Get yourself a nice horsehair paint brush that has a very fine tip. Then take your touch up and dab it inside the chip, not allowing the paint to overflow the chip. Let it dry, and repeat until it's full to your liking. You can also add some clear. This is how we did it at the shop I worked for doing touch up for Kings Automall years ago and it worked great. Just take your time and make sure your paint matches up. Personally, I'd go to a paint center that sells automotive paint and ask for them to match ya some up.

    When you're ready to learn how to run a high speed buffer get a hold of me. I have no problem showing someone how to run one without burning or swirling up paint. Have run em for over 15 years now so I know a thing or two.
    Last edited by chris91; 07-16-2017 at 03:17 AM.
    2011 Black on Black GT

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris91 View Post
    Doing paint chips is fairly easy. Get yourself a nice horsehair paint brush that has a very fine tip. Then take your touch up and dab it inside the chip, not allowing the paint to overflow the chip. Let it dry, and repeat until it's full to your liking. You can also add some clear. This is how we did it at the shop I worked for doing touch up for Kings Automall years ago and it worked great. Just take your time and make sure your paint matches up. Personally, I'd go to a paint center that sells automotive paint and ask for them to match ya some up.

    When you're ready to learn how to run a high speed buffer get a hold of me. I have no problem showing someone how to run one without burning or swirling up paint. Have run em for over 15 years now so I know a thing or two.
    I want to get some use out of this DA before stepping up, but when I do which one do you recommend? And I will take you up on that offer when I am ready. THanks and thanks for the touch up tip. I will try to find a horse hair brush. I assume a place like KOI paint store in Sharonville would have those?

  10. #10
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    I picked up my brushes at a art supply store.

    Honestly, you can get done almost everything with the right pads and chemicals as you could with a high speed buffer. I don't imagine your car has any serious damage necessitating the use of a high speed does it? Only time I use mine anymore is if there are deep scratches or if there is damage from like bird droppings or such. As far as a recommendation on one, I bought a cheaper one from Smyth Paint Center and I've had it for going on 7-8 years now. Paid all of like $75 bucks for it but it's been great. I've used Milwaukee,Dewalt (ALWAYS VERY NOISY), and Hitachi. I really prefer mine over those. It's nice and light and not super noisy. I'd say go to Home Depot or Lowe's and check em out and see how if you like how one or the other feels. Definitely make sure you're able to dial in the speed no matter which one you choose. When you're trying to get rid of scratches you want it a little higher as opposed to when you're deswirling you want it at a lower speed as you're slowly making passes. Feel free to get a hold of me whenever if you have a question for me. I'll pm ya my phone number as I'm not on here nearly as much anymore.
    2011 Black on Black GT

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris91 View Post
    I picked up my brushes at a art supply store.

    Honestly, you can get done almost everything with the right pads and chemicals as you could with a high speed buffer. I don't imagine your car has any serious damage necessitating the use of a high speed does it? Only time I use mine anymore is if there are deep scratches or if there is damage from like bird droppings or such. As far as a recommendation on one, I bought a cheaper one from Smyth Paint Center and I've had it for going on 7-8 years now. Paid all of like $75 bucks for it but it's been great. I've used Milwaukee,Dewalt (ALWAYS VERY NOISY), and Hitachi. I really prefer mine over those. It's nice and light and not super noisy. I'd say go to Home Depot or Lowe's and check em out and see how if you like how one or the other feels. Definitely make sure you're able to dial in the speed no matter which one you choose. When you're trying to get rid of scratches you want it a little higher as opposed to when you're deswirling you want it at a lower speed as you're slowly making passes. Feel free to get a hold of me whenever if you have a question for me. I'll pm ya my phone number as I'm not on here nearly as much anymore.
    Itsd covered in swirl from the previous owner running it through an automated car wash. It had also apparently been left outside in weather year round and not driven for a period of time as there was also a place where bird poop or something had eaten through the base coat into the primer on the passenger side door which I had repaired a week or so back. The precious owner passed away and his widow traded it in. It had 2100 miles on it when i got it. So this process has really brought the depth and clarity of the paint back. It's not perfect and I certainly don;t have the patience to try (nor want to) but even my wife saw the difference and couldn't get over how much better it looks in direct sunlight. Thanks.

  12. #12
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    It's done. Well as done as I am going to get it and it looks pretty good. Far cray better than all of the swirl that was in the paint...now gone. Got a little aggressive on the front bumper and lifted the edge on the stripes but I can get those redone easily enough. Was planning on having them pulled and redone a few shades lighter this fall anyway. So no biggy. I'll get some pictures posted as soon as I get it washed and polished up with some detail spray. Total time invested 23 hours which includes all taping and masking off trim, rubber, lights, etc.

  13. #13
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    my dad loves this site. he said he has learned a ton from it, and that it has changed his life- http://www.autogeek.net/
    '17 WRX- 312/317 driving all the wheels

  14. #14
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    Yip. That's where I go. I order from them or Autopia (same company) depending on who is running the best deal at the time.

  15. #15
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    Don't forget Chemical Guys. That's where I've bought a lot of my supplies.
    2011 Black on Black GT

  16. #16
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    Chad...pictures or didn't happen!!

  17. #17
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    Just finished the glaze coat this evening. Hope to find a suitable background somewhere close by for a few shots soon enough.

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