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Thread: Tell me about Stall Converters...

  1. #1
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    Tell me about Stall Converters...

    The Circle D 258mm 2C (3200-3400 stall) is awaiting to go into the vehicle late winter to early spring. Since this is my first ever stall converter and I have only driven one old school vehicle with a stall converter in it (351C 4V with C6 and 3500 stall) I have little experience on what to expect aside from the obvious that the car will foot brake (according to Circle D) up to about 2700 and flash at 3200-3400 (their stall spec is based on flash stall). I get that. I also get that this will help the car out of the hole better where it really needs help. That's rather obvious even with my limited understanding.

    So what I don't know is:

    1.) How will the car react under normal driving compared to the factory converter? Will it want to move as soon as the brake is released at idle on level ground or will it need a throttle nudge?
    2.) Will the converter (3 clutch locking design Circle D not the 5 clutch option) transfer more power potentially to the ground than the factory stall?
    3.) Will it help pick up any on the big end of the track aside from helping the car leave better?

    If more information is needed to answer these questions let me know. Thanks for any education you may be able to offer.
    Last edited by redfirepearlgt; 12-15-2017 at 01:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    1.) Yes ...
    2.) Yes ...
    3.) Yes ...
    Aaron


    F**K Photobucket !!!

  3. #3
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    ^ Just sayin????

  4. #4
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    Why didnít you do this sooner? It will do everything better!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #5 - 2017 DD Challenge List

    1997 Cobra - IMRC deletes, long tubes, cai, 4.30, strange axles, e85 dayton performance tuned, chromoly cage
    2000 Saleen S281SC - factory "stock"
    2005 F250 6.0 powerstroke - tuned, swamps FICM, 4" turbo back, egr delete, studded, tow rig & DD

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by S281SC View Post
    Why didn’t you do this sooner? It will do everything better!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I transplanted everything I could from my 13 stick shift car to this vehicle. So I already had the power adder and many suspension parts. I also wanted to see how much and how low I could run on 93 octane with the transmission remaining stock before moving further running 9.5 psi. Second $1200 bucks was a chunk to swallow. Earlier last summer (about May as I recall) I had a used 258mm 3C lined up but the deal apparently fell through as I never heard back from the seller after he made me an offer and I accepted. So I waited for only to be put off, and that cost me the whole 2017 season, but it is what it is. I finally gave up and decided to get one the moment I heard them going on sale. Lesson learned. Get all the details before agreeing to buy something privately. Regardless I now have one brand spanking new. It is spec'd for my setup and my tuner states there should be little if any revisit on the tune with regard to the 6R80 shift points...but we will see, and make any changes if need be. So come on 2018 spring warm dry weather and lets get to some racing. And as Old Paul Harvey (RIP) would have said, "...and now you know the rest of this story....good day"
    Last edited by redfirepearlgt; 12-16-2017 at 10:40 PM.

  6. #6
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    I remember your frustration to get the used one. Glad you got it. Should really help get her out of the hole!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #5 - 2017 DD Challenge List

    1997 Cobra - IMRC deletes, long tubes, cai, 4.30, strange axles, e85 dayton performance tuned, chromoly cage
    2000 Saleen S281SC - factory "stock"
    2005 F250 6.0 powerstroke - tuned, swamps FICM, 4" turbo back, egr delete, studded, tow rig & DD

  7. #7
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    ^^^ If you are serious about going FE I have a friend witha 390 he is wanting to sell. It is a complete stock engine and I seem to recall it has a tranny on it as well.

  8. #8
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    I am not really considering an FE due to build costs. I would do a 460 based big block. But really those still cost more than a windsor to build. I have collected some parts through trades over the years and am considering building what was cool in my high school days. I drove an 87 ranger and then had a 302 swapped 83 ranger that i wanted to build a 351 clevor for. I never did. In the days before decent heads in the aftermarket that was the only dream we had.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #5 - 2017 DD Challenge List

    1997 Cobra - IMRC deletes, long tubes, cai, 4.30, strange axles, e85 dayton performance tuned, chromoly cage
    2000 Saleen S281SC - factory "stock"
    2005 F250 6.0 powerstroke - tuned, swamps FICM, 4" turbo back, egr delete, studded, tow rig & DD

  9. #9
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    1 with that low of a stahl, you will notice a slight bit more throttle on take off, if you notice it at all.
    2. By allowing the engine to flash up into a more efficient part of the power and especially torque range, it will hit the tires a lot harder. It will feel like more power is hitting the ground.
    3. Depending on if your old clutch was slipping on apply when the converter locked up, you may see more mph in the end.
    Bottom line, the car will be faster and quicker in the 1/4 provided traction is there. If you do the transbrake mod to your car with the appropriate tune changes, you will see the high end of the converter stahl, as the brakes are the limiter when footbraking it. Just my experience with it in a lock up trans.
    SB Dirty Dozen #5, 2005
    SB Dirty Dozen #11, 2006
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    Engine builder for Pinks winner

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NXcoupe View Post
    1 with that low of a stahl, you will notice a slight bit more throttle on take off, if you notice it at all.
    2. By allowing the engine to flash up into a more efficient part of the power and especially torque range, it will hit the tires a lot harder. It will feel like more power is hitting the ground.
    3. Depending on if your old clutch was slipping on apply when the converter locked up, you may see more mph in the end.
    Bottom line, the car will be faster and quicker in the 1/4 provided traction is there. If you do the transbrake mod to your car with the appropriate tune changes, you will see the high end of the converter stahl, as the brakes are the limiter when footbraking it. Just my experience with it in a lock up trans.
    Thanks. With the PD and wishing to keep the car street worthy Circle D spec'd this with my setup. The tuner spec'd this converter specifically as well. As for transbrake....not going to happen, until after the car is paid off if ever. Those electronic TB's (or the relay mod kit that can be performed) are real hard on the 6R80's. I was advised against it for a mostly street car by two performance shops. I just wish to see the car capable of a 10.99 best on a given night at the track even in July/August type air. If need be I will throw some more power at it by dropping to a 79mm pulley and stepping up to 56lb FI's. I have plans in the spring for some QA1's or Viking rear adjustables. The car isn't having any issues hooking, if anything it needs to be able to leave a little higher in the power band. After all it isn't a race car, just your average everyday cruise-in going street car.

  11. #11
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    I had a 4c in my 11. You shouldn't notice little difference in partial throttle driving on the street. My 4c dropped 5 to 6 tenths consistently. The only time I noticed the converter was loading it on the trailer. Tune will dictate what it will pickup trap speed wise. I am surprised your car hasn't run a 10.99 with your current setup. Being na it was the best mod I did on my car.
    2006 Mustang GT "Shirley" sold 11.37
    2011 Mustang GT "Ashley" Bone stock?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by firestang70 View Post
    I had a 4c in my 11. You shouldn't notice little difference in partial throttle driving on the street. My 4c dropped 5 to 6 tenths consistently. The only time I noticed the converter was loading it on the trailer. Tune will dictate what it will pickup trap speed wise. I am surprised your car hasn't run a 10.99 with your current setup. Being na it was the best mod I did on my car.
    It's run 10.82@130 for 2016 and 10.83@131 best for 2017 in decent air Dale. I want the car to run 10's in any air for 2018. Most guys I have seen running NA or a centri setup are running 4C's. If I have to pull it and send it back for a revisit then that will be done. You know from experience that Circle D is good about working with their customers. I'm going with what the PD experts say is working best with my type of setup.

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