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Thread: The future Theater/Media Room...

  1. #1
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    The future Theater/Media Room...

    Thought I would share the progress of my future media room along with some basement repair work.

    My wife has been after me for years to put an additional room in the basement. However I have put it off over the years for several reasons one of which being that my money was going into car parts...that she often never knew about. Recently she started giving me grief about the number of speakers in the living room after telling her I was going to upgrade to ATMOS Dolby which adds two more speakers to the existing 5 + subwoofer unit. So I decided to start focusing on a media room in the basement. After all I can enjoy it regardless of the weather conditions.

    I've been working on the basement for about 5 weeks now. I had to first tear out 16 feet of make shift shelving, and then purchase some commercial HD shelving to relocate everything on to make room for the addition. Next came the hard work that has been a major PITA! Getting the loose old paint/sealant off the walls, repairing loose mortar joints with hydraulic cement, prepping the walls for sealing and then applying a primer coat that is mildew/mold resistant.

    The corner where the addition is going looked originally like this.



    Hand scraped the corner back 4 feet on each side and knocked the loose paint off on the remaining 25 feet. After scrubbing the walls free of efflorescense with TSP and wiring brushing all the loose debris and mortar joints I got the area to this point.



    Several spots needed the loose mortar knocked out and reworked as well. Filling with Hydraulic cement after knocking out the loose spots and enlarging.



    The completed exterior walls (and they no longer seep or leak when it rains). Almost hate to cover them. They have 2 coats of Drylok Extreme sealant and a coat of mildew/mold resistant primer on them.




    The two completed walls that will have Owens Corning R10 Foamular 250 put on them. Steel 2x4 structure will be placed up against that and then covered in green drywall. A 'Dricore' brand Subfloor will then go down which has a vapor barrier and rubber underside to minimize mildew or mold growth. All of this is on hold currently due to the stupid COVID BS.

    Lighting and ceiling layout is still undecided.

    AV equipment will include a Sony 950 series 75" 4K TV, Monitor audio or Paradigm speakers throughout, my current Yamaha RX-A1070 Home theater receiver and Sony 4K Blueray Player.

    I am currently cleaning up and repairing other walls in the basement since this frickin COVID virus overreach has placed a potential recession on the economy. So the laundry area is currently under way to being repaired and sealed as well. The floor in that area will have an epoxy placed over it like used on garage floors. These are things that needed to be done even if the economy goes completely south and the project gets put ion hold for an undefined period of time. Lets just hope its not as long as I suspect its going to be.
    Last edited by redfirepearlgt; 04-18-2020 at 03:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    Looking good!!! More pics!

  3. #3
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    All I have for now. Just waiting to see what whack-a-doodle Acton and side-kick DeWine plan on doing and how the economy responds when they do it. I was really hoping to have the outer walls insulated, the subfloor started and the studs in place by now. The subflooring is cool. It interlocks like a floating floor and provides an R1.5 factor without anything over it.

    I'm missing all kinds of bargains on TV's and floor standing speakers.

  4. #4
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    Looks good! Gotta love the drylock. That stuff works good!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  5. #5
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    Gone through over 5 gallons of TSP mix, 2 gallons of concrete etch, a bucket of hydraulic cement, two tubes of concrete sealer, almost two gallons of DriLok extreme over 25 feet of wall and 3/4 gallon of mildew/mold resistant primer. Working on the other bad corner in the laundry room right now and hope to have that area looking better in a week or so. Seeing it after finishing those two exterior wall areas made me realize I needed to clean that area up as well. So I can knock that out with only spending about another $100 or so.

    Hand scraping these block walls is the only way to get this off. I did find a sawzall scraper blade today so I am going to give that a shot and see if it works as good with less effort on the remainder of the laundry area I am going to Drylok as well. The multi-tool scraper I tried sucked.

  6. #6
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    Finished the opposite corner in the laundry room Wednesday. Held up to the rain fine Thursday.

    I purchased a Sawzall and scraper blade for that last week and tried it but the stroke for this type of work is too long and the min speed is to fast. A buddy at work suggested I try his pneumatic scraper.

    I picked up a 3/8" 50ft hose for a little more volume over the 1/4" that is on the compressor and gave it a shot. DAG! I got done in 3-4 hours what would have taken me at least 8 hours otherwise to scrape and wash down. I'm just scraping the loose areas and taking spots with cracks and spots where evidence of seepage has occurred over the years down to the concrete.

    Filled the smaller cracks with an adhesive filler compound from Quikrete and repaired several loose mortar joints with hydraulic cement.


    Hopefully this will all cure in 24 hours and I can begin sealing it with the DriLock or however you spell it. I sure can't wait to start laying the subfloor and framing up the media room after this is done.

  7. #7
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    A media room is on my bucket list. You are doing an exceptional job. Keep at it. Looks great.

  8. #8
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    Thanks. Means a lot. I figured at least weather can't control the enjoyment of this investment.

  9. #9
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    Turning out real nice! You'll be watching the big screen in no time now!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  10. #10
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    Hopefully by fall. I'm heading to Home Depot today to pick up a couple of 2x12's (12ft long) to cut stringers to replace the staircase. The current staircase is 2.5 inches off as it descends. and it has about 600 coats of paint on it. Older home so I have to make my own stringers. They used to cut a rabbit in the stringer with a dado blade set but modern design uses the notch style which can be done with circular saw and jigsaw. Just takes time to lay out the angles and make it work. Fortunately the rise and run on my basement staircase ends up putting all the cuts at 45 degrees...45.1 to be exact.

  11. #11
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    Stairs can be a real pain in the neck to do... I just did a set in the garage and I fought them because of the location and I couldn't use a standard set.
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  12. #12
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    Sounds like it is coming along, good work.
    "Socialism only works in two places: Heaven where they don't need it and hell where they already have it."
    -Ronald Reagan

    Steve owner of a blown '94 Vert.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin50 View Post
    Stairs can be a real pain in the neck to do... I just did a set in the garage and I fought them because of the location and I couldn't use a standard set.
    Same here bud. Making mine from scratch. This old house won't conform to clearance codes because of the descent changes over the decades. TO use a rise and run with a tread required by code I would either be crawling down the stairs or they would set up like a ladder. I am removing one riser so I can make the trade an inch deeper. This does also increase the riser overall by 1 inch but it will be safer footing. I am gong to have to dado the first step so I have more contact surface to the floor joist. Otherwise with the newer design risers I will have to scab in an additional 6 inches on the floor joist (Its only 8 inches because it is a landing area)for the minimum 3.5 inches required to anchor in. Thankfully the work is all at a 45 (45.1 actually but you can fudge .1 degrees in or even 1 degree in carpentry)work so that takes a lot out of the process.

    I went to HD today to pick up the things I needed to start this evening. Should have done it in the rain Saturday like i aws going to but got lazy. Checked out and the ditz at the register screwed something up and declined my card. She had no idea what was going on and kept telling me my card was declined. It has $150 on the balance. Told me I could talk to service which was all the way down at the other end. I walked out leaving everything there. Got home and found HD had declined my card and placed a fraud alert on it with my company. So I am now sitting for over an hour trying to get a rep to pick up to reactivate the f'ing card!

    WHERE DO THEY GET THESE F&&&&G MORONIC LOSERS? These stupid ass gen y and gen z groups grew up on computers and can't do simple cashier work with a system that does all the f***ng work and thinking for you! GOOD GRIEF!

    Meanwhile my chronological clock keeps clicking me closer to deaths door with each waiting second that I am on hold....been 30 minutes and nothing on this fourth attempt to contact the CC company. I thought 1/4th of the fricking country was out of work!!! Why am i stuck on hold for somethign that shoudl have been resolved 25 minutes ago? I can't even go on line and resolve it.

  14. #14
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    Damn brother, sounds like one of my days!!! Sometimes its pretty rough... Don't know how people go through life without being told how to breath.

    On the other hand, sounds like you have your steps figured out!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  15. #15
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    never did get through to cc company. according to the MSM news half the country is dead and the other half is unemployed. So why can't I get through to my CC lender to get teh card reactivated? IDK!

  16. #16
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    Keep the updates and pics coming! Its cool to see a work in progress and then the final result!
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/ Where all this began!
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/twisted/ Vinny
    1984 Mustang build @craig_btr on Instagram

  17. #17
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    Thanks man. It's not a car build, But its something I have the tools and abililty to do (at a backyard builders level), and weather can't dictate when I can use it when its done. LOL! It just got bigger as well. IT will end up being the largest room in the house at 14x17 in floor area.

  18. #18
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    Cars aren't doing us much good right at the moment anyways. Makes me want to do some home projects too!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  19. #19
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    Finally got around to taking on the stringers this morning. Picked up a pair of 2x12x10ft yellow pine boards. a new circular saw with laser and went to it.

    The old crooked staircase will be widened by 2 inches and set so that it runs parallel with the with the wall. Currently its out about 2 1/2 inches from top to bottom.



    Laid out the stringer.




    Cut away....love laser technology - its the geek in me.


    Final product - And on the first try...


    Test fit - verified the demensions and cuts were good and made the second one.



    My only after thought was that I should have clamped to two boards together and done both stringers in one cut fora more consistent product. Set at 34 inches apart a couple of the treads are about 1/8" out over 24". Some final trimming will also need to be done to mate them flat to the floor. Plan on tearing out the old stairway next week and putting them in.

  20. #20
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    Your stair marks look identical to mine! Ill have to send you a picture! Made me laugh!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

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