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Thread: The future Theater/Media Room...

  1. #21
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    Jan 2008
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    ^^^ Older homes. Gotta hate em.

  2. #22
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    Pulled the old stair case and handrail out. Got a stringer set today. Used a floor jack and a t-brace made of 2x4 to support it while I broke it free from the floor joist. Was glad to get it out of the way.

    The other stringer fell while dry setting it to the first and split. Had to run out and pick up some Gorilla wood glue and a couple of floor joist repair plates so I could fix it.

    Fit the first tread into the dado groove for the first tread. Glue and nailed it. So its now setting up as well. The stringer repair has to cure for 24 hours and then I can put up the other side and begin setting the treads tomorrow.

    Lost a brake line this morning on the truck just as I was backing into the driveway as well. If it rains it pours. Crimped the line off going to the rear passenger side until I can get a line replaced on it tomorrow.

  3. #23
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    May 2011
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    Liberty Twp
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    Way to go Chad
    #9 2011 Spring Street Car Shoutout

    1991 Mini Tubed Mustang Coupe, in the works.
    351W base, PG, Stock Suspension chassis

  4. #24
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    Oct 2004
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    Eastgate
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    3,367
    Progress!!!!!

  5. #25
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    Jan 2008
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    Got the truck fixed this morning and came home and hit it. By 5:00PM (started at about 1030a) the stairway is mostly done and functional. Unfortunately not thinking I cut a 2x10 for a scab board and ended up not using it. That would have been the last (bottom) tread, so.......I ran out of wood. Too tire to go pick up another 8ft 2x10. The scab piece would work if it didn't have three carriage bolt holes threw it. I was overthinking the build.




    Here is the repair where the top split out when it fell yesterday. Turned out well. They use the same plate to join stringers together for longer stairways for deck building. And of course I used the local Gorilla Glue and cabinet clamps.



    Yip the bottom step is a lu-lu. I was not able to make any more clearance from the overhead coming down. I was hoping that reducing a step in the stringer might help that, but after thinking about it the only way to do that would be to make the stairs much steeper which then also makes the treads less deep. So guys like Shayne and Eric will really have to stoop to clear.



    These older homes were not really meant for renovating basements. The ceiling is as low as 80" in the corners of the basement. In the center where the floor is the lowest it is about 85 inches. So just over 7 feet. I can't do a drop ceiling so I will do an acoustical that uses furring strips attached straight to the floor joists to maximize head room.

  6. #26
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    Jan 2009
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    Hillsboro, Ohio
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    Turned out nice! Steps are a pain in the ass! Nothing is 100% ready to go together and they suck to lay out.
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  7. #27
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    Jan 2008
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    Thanks. I'm worn out. I could never do this for a living unless I was doing it on time and materials. I'm just slow...like my POS 17 GT. LOL!

  8. #28
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    Oct 2004
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    Good job Chad. I say the same about drywall. Takes me forever.

  9. #29
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    I was going to do drywall, but have decided to use a beaded white wall panel like you see in beach homes in the Carolina's, or something similar to a ships lap if I can find something reasonable. I won't put big money into fancy siding on a house this size (or flooring) because it will never make a return. The people looking for houses in this size are only interested if the basement is finished. They don't care if the floor is laminate or $40 a sq ft Italian tile as long as its functional and not gaudy looking. I hate to fill the house with drywall dust. Already filled it once with cement and paint dust when I tried to use a 90 degree diamond grinding wheel to remove the old paint from the basement walls. Had a dust collection setup on it and it still made a mess. So had to stop.

  10. #30
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    Jan 2008
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    Bottom step done. Can't believe how unlevel the basement floor is. Will shim the gap on the front and trim and she should be good. I had some concern that I had lost some major headroom compared to the old stair case. Ended up it was 1" lower at the step under the floor joist. I should have done a 48 degree (8 11/16 rise; 7 3/4 tread) that would have shortened the run to 70 inches and cerated more room but I was overly concerned with tread width as minimum standard in new homes is 9 inches from what I have read. I'll just paint a yellow & black caution logo with the caption "LOW BRIDGE" on it.

    Next is to cut up thye old freezer and fridge stuck behind the stairs and get them out of there. No idea how they got down there. Doorway upstairs is only 27" wide. Freezer's most narrow dimension is 31".


  11. #31
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    Niiiiiiiice

  12. #32
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    Jan 2009
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    Hillsboro, Ohio
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    Makes you wonder how they got it down there! At least it isn't a piano!!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  13. #33
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    Springboro, OH
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    Nice, not a project I would attempt. They look sturdy enough.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by NXcoupe View Post
    Nice, not a project I would attempt. They look sturdy enough.
    I based off the original staircase that was built from 2" woodstock. I'm looking at redoing them though and shortening the run by 8 inches to allow more head clearance to the ceiling joists at the base of the stairs so tall guys like you won't have to duck as much when you descend. Plus it will make getting things up/down out of the basement easier.

    I just found a wood working saw made by Festool that is called a tracking saw. I functions as a circular saw, but then you can also slap the 42" (other sizes as well) track guide on it and hold precision angles and cut lines. I got a "woody" when I saw it demonstrated. Also found that they make stops you can put on a framing square that allows you to set your rise/run and simply mark and slide down the 2x12 for laying out. SUPER FAST! and accurate.

    BTW - I wouldn't attempt to make a 6R80 transbrake kit on a later model Coyote or rebuild a shortblock so we are almost even. You still have the more coveted edge though IMHO.

  15. #35
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    Jan 2009
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    The rise/run tool makes it easy as pie!!! I didn't see it until I was done with mine. Hopefully I don't have to make any more steps in the future!

    By shortening the run up, how steep will they be? Id almost give up head room to have the less steeper steps. My last place was pretty steep and I hated it.

    8 inches is a lot to give up!
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  16. #36
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    Jan 2008
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    MAKING EASE OUT OF LAYING OUT A STAIR STRINGER. SO EASY A REDFIREPEARLGT CAN DO IT


    Well here is something else I just found. Its called a stair gauge. Costs $5 at Lowes or Home Depot.



    You will also need your trusty framing square in 1/16th divisions.


    Find a nice sharp clean cut edge and set one of your first two dimensions on one side, and lock down with the thumb screw on the first stair gauge. Then swing the framing square while keeping the stair gauge against the edge until the other dimension is read on the other side. While holding the dimension, attach the other stair gauge in place so it is snug up against he edge as well. Verify your numbers.

    In my case the rise (stair height) for the new stringer is 8 11/16th's inches.

    The tread run (not to be confused with total run which is stair tread run dimension x number of treads) is 7 3/4 inches


    Now its simply a matter of placing the framing square on your 2x12 lumber, tracing the outside edge and moving the square down to the next point of intersection.



    This way your layout makes more sense and doesn't look like a math fair project like the originals I did looked like below. LOL!


    The hardest part now is establishing the height of the first step where it attaches to the floor joist at the top. This can be rough cut and then fine cut for a flush fit (not all floor joists will be square vertically). A few different ways to attach the stringer to the top as well. Here is a hyperlink to a stringer calculator to make things a lot easier. In newer homes or homes with basements that have 8ft or higher ceilings, being off on your run won't be critical. In older single story homes with 7ft basement ceilings the run measurement will be critical. This is why I am redoing mine so that I will have more head room gong down the steps which will also give me more room to get things up and down the steps.

    This takes a lot of stress and time out of the process. It provides repeatable measurements as well. I highly suggest truing the ends of the lumber as well before beginning the process and insuring both board measure the same exact length.

    Hope this helps. It works the same for doing deck steps as well. Save yourself some money and try it on your own. If you are building the deck you already have the framing square and a circular or miter saw as well as a 4ft level. All you then need is the stair gauges which is $5.

    Also here is a link to a stair stringer calculator which makes the process even easier. https://www.mycarpentry.com/stair-calculator.html

    Enjoy!
    Last edited by redfirepearlgt; 05-14-2020 at 09:21 PM.

  17. #37
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    Jan 2009
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    Best $5 spent Im sure! I was in the same boat, didn't find it until I was done with mine. Wouldve made it so much easier.
    1992 Mustang LX Coupe, 302, PA C4 and On3 70mm.
    1993 Reef Blue hatch, 347, 3550, and a kit.
    1992 Gould GT project...

  18. #38
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    Springboro, OH
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    Wow, that makes it a lot easier. Gonna be nice. I still would like to see the black and yellow caution sign. Lol.

  19. #39
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    Jan 2008
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    ^^^ I may still put it up regardless.

  20. #40
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    Jan 2008
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    Stopped by Lowes last evening. Picked up this little "man toy". 12" blade 16 inch cut at 90 degrees, 3800 RPM, 15 A motor.

    Played around with it some. It cuts so square and straight and sweet. I can hardly wait for a dry spell to set it up outside and start the new staircase. Found that my floor joist angle last night (rather than just get close which is still better than the original staircase) and laid out a single rise and run on a short piece of scrap 2x10. Set the miter saw at 51degrees. Made the back cut, cut out the step. Dry fot off to one side and the torpedo level showed dead nuts. BOING! This is as fun as making a 10 second pass...........well almost. I ran a shop vac to teh dust collector rather than use the bag and still made some fine sawdust, so I need to use this baby outside. It's finish cut is glass, but it sure makes the fine sawdust.

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