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Thread: Coyote Coupe Project

  1. #21
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    Feb 2004
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    Next on the list was to patch up those holes. I cut some .080" plate and fit it to the holes. I ground them smooth and cleaned up around them so the weld would go smooth. It did except in one place where I burned through. It was really tight quarters welding that up, it sucked, but I got it and it looks decent. I could grind it smooth, but who sees it? I may still end up doing it if my OCD gets the best of me.



  2. #22
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    I noticed something that kind of torqued me a bit. I thought there seemed to be a bit of grease on the trans tunnel above the trans/driveshaft flange where they meet up. Closer inspection revealed EVERY bolt in the trunion, (that they put together, the ones I put in are all still tight), was about to fall out. Talk about by the hair of your chinny chin chin! I got all of them out, cleaned, and then loctighted back in. I just hope that there is no long term damage as a result.


  3. #23
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    Here is where I am now. I am not mounting the anti roll bar above and in front of the rear end. After looking it over, there is just no room to put it there. I have an idea, but I'll post up pics after I get it going.


  4. #24
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    Nice work! The plates you welded blend in well.
    Joe

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PKFIRE View Post
    Nice work! The plates you welded blend in well.
    Thanks Joe!

  6. #26
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    nice work Mike!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by redfirepearlgt View Post
    nice work Mike!
    Thanks Chad! New bar showed up today, so more work in my future.

  8. #28
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    Feb 2004
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    I spent about 3 weeks thinking about where I could fit this bar where it would function optimally but still not interfere with this bidonkadonk rear end. I committed to this spot and it seems to work well so far. I need to make supports to go from the frame rail over to the mounts, then weld the link brackets to the axle housing and shorten the links. I had to really crank the welder to get penetration, so they aren't as pretty as I'd like but I got great penetration so it'll hold. I used my plasma cutter to make the mounting plates and that worked really well. Pics when I get back home.
    First I had to weld the arms onto the bar, they don't come welded in the custom kit.






    Last edited by NXcoupe; 04-24-2023 at 06:33 PM.

  9. #29
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    Feb 2004
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    Springboro, OH
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    Made huge strides today on the dyno. Many thanks to Walter for being a great sounding board and having awesome, intelligent feedback. My issue is not 'fixed' but is identified. It is ready to race, just won't be it's total manly self yet, but in due time it will. At least I have a direction and some info. Been too long since I had my own car on the dyno. It's amazing. I'll have video sometime soon.

  10. #30
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    Feb 2004
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    More pics of the rear.



    I got it up onto the 4 post rack and was really excited to see that I had to hack the crap out of these links to get them to work. Since I only had a right hand tap, I had to cut all the length off of the right hand thread side, and only a touch off the left hand thread side. Finally got it to work, I think this will do. I can always get it a little shorter if need be. It will be very stiff laterally this way, which is a good thing.



  11. #31
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    Feb 2004
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    After dyno, I decided it was time to put the diaper on my grown ass car. I've had this thing for years, and never put it on, but I know safety rules are there to protect me and the other racers, so I pushed through it and got this on there. Wasn't all that bad. Used bolts on the back of the head, motor mount and oil pan to hold it in place. Turned out decent. Will be much easier to do with the engine out of the car, so when the sleeved block goes in, or this one gives up the ghost, it'll get on there perfectly.



  12. #32
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    Nice!
    I need to put mine back on.
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/ Where all this began!
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/twisted/ Vinny
    1984 Mustang build @craig_btr on Instagram

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maximus View Post
    Nice!
    I need to put mine back on.
    It really is a good idea. Hope yours is done soon. We'll have a running of the dozens down there at clay city.

  14. #34
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    So finally got everything done that I wanted to do to it. Got it off the rack and pulled it outside. I wanted to see if it would make more boost on the brake since I fixed the wastegate so I pushed the button and nothing. Car rolled forward. I let off and pushed it again while I looked at the controller and when I push the brake button, it shuts off the controller. Great. When I let off, it turns back on. Not sure what's up with it, so I sent email and called US shift. Haven't heard back yet but hope it's an easy fix.
    Last edited by NXcoupe; 06-16-2023 at 11:49 PM.

  15. #35
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    Tonight Neil and I gave the circuits a once over and came to the conclusion the controller took a dump. It stays on with my laptop plugged in but the screen says E3. And the instructions have every other error but E3. Of course. So I am feelimg this is a controller that took a dump. Now I guess I start blowing up their phone on Monday. I guess I could footbrake it but it just sucks. Updates when I get them.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by NXcoupe View Post
    Tonight Neil and I gave the circuits a once over and came to the conclusion the controller took a dump. It stays on with my laptop plugged in but the screen says E3. And the instructions have every other error but E3. Of course. So I am feelimg this is a controller that took a dump. Now I guess I start blowing up their phone on Monday. I guess I could footbrake it but it just sucks. Updates when I get them.
    Thatís frustrating, hope you get it resolved quickly!
    Joe

  17. #37
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    Thanks Joe!

  18. #38
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    So engine is out, pan off. Update coming.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by NXcoupe View Post
    So engine is out, pan off. Update coming.
    Whatcha doing?
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/ Where all this began!
    http://stangbang.tripod.com/twisted/ Vinny
    1984 Mustang build @craig_btr on Instagram

  20. #40
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    Feb 2004
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    Ok, so I am long overdue for an update. Everyone knows that I went to BG and the engine started making a noise similar to bunch of marbles in the washer on spin cycle. But before I cover that, let's back up some. Last I updated this, I was having issues with the Quick 6, which turned out to be nothing with the controller and everything with Holley V300. It sucks. I had their launch control wired up as it has been for years, but in V300, it was sending a 12V signal up the transbrake wire and causing the controller to lose it's mind and cycle off and on. Once I removed that from my outputs, everything worked perfectly again.
    Now, back to the marbles in the washer, or is a drier a better example? Anyway, I dropped the engine out and I pulled the pan off; and I'll edit this and attach pics once I am finished typing and upload them. I got the windage tray off, and saw the #8 rod bolts had backed out about 3 turns each. The noise I heard was the piston hitting the head and the rod slamming around on the crank. The bearing was stuck on the crank, well sort of, more stuck to each other than the crank. I completely expected the crank and rod to be garbage, but when I pulled the cap off and unstuck the bearings, the crank looked like new! The bearings had taken all the beating and let the crank come out unscathed. I took the rod with new rod bolts to my buddy and he reconditioned it while I waited. It wasn't that bad. Problem was, upon further inspection, the skirt was cracked and the piston skirts had collapsed. They just weren't designed for this much power. Turns out all 8 were rocking in the bores, with 8 being the worst. It had .009" piston to wall clearance and the top of the piston ringland above the top ring had been rubbing the bore! That's how loose these were in the bores. I ran a hone in that cylinder to see if I could get it to straighten out, but it took nearly .010" to get it round again and it was still tapered and tight at the bottom. So with my limited hone equipment, there was no way it was going to be saved, so it will be sold off. I had 2 other blocks, so after talking with Todd Warren, I decided to take one down to BES and have it sleeved. I dropped off one that had horrible bores in it, damaged from rust due to water in the cylinders. I took the other one to my friend Mike to have it honed to fit my other reciprocating assembly with DSS pistons and Manley rods. I am selling that spare engine to finance this endeavor. Both of these blocks are 12MM blocks, and I was surprised to find that my race engine was only an 11mm block and it had zero gasket issues, I attribute that to the tune.
    Todd helped me out with a set of Molnex power adder plus rods with ARP 2000 bolts, so those are on the shelf. Pistons are coming from DSS, their drag radial/outlaw design, very thick long skirts, with reinforcements all the way around the piston and .250" wall pins. I am going with a 3.640 bore and coating the pistons to get my clearance dialed in. Heads will be coming from a 2015 F150, and I'll port those with Warren springs and cams so I'll be flowing a lot more air and have larger valves too boot.
    Intake is still up in the air, but I'm leaning towards the Holley low ram for it. Not sure yet. Turbo and kit are remaining basically the same. I am making updates to the cage, basically the frame rails and bars running over to the rocker bar so the cage will cert to 7.50 because I'm going to need it.
    Trans is still going to be a 6R80, but I am upgrading a few of the internal parts. I have a bolt together Circle D converter to go into it as well. I need to come up with an exhaust system for it, as I plan to do a bunch of drag and drives, although I've missed out on both sick events registration, I'm going to try and make it into the Midwest event and Hot Rod drag week. I also want to do all the NMRA events I can muster, as the suspension changes I did improved the car 100%, so drag radials hooked as good as slicks pretty much. Things will change tho when I am putting a lot of power down from the get go, where before my 60fts were only 1.7 to 1.8, they should drop deep into the 1.2 to 1.1s after all these changes. Remember, I was running a stock F150 converter and trans, no mods other than deleting the thermostat block.
    So, car is apart until the block gets done, then I'll start putting it all together and update as I go along.

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