The Blue 14 GTCS

[S281SC]

What is this torque booster you speak of? Do you have a link? Or a pic?


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[redfirepearlgt]

Given it may be this unknown possibly I should keep it a secret? NAH! Here is a photo. It mounts on the boost side. If desired boost level target is 10psi max, the SC is pullied to generate a higher given amount of boost say 12 psi. The waste gate on the torque booster is configured to blow off at any pressure above 10psi. The result is a 10 psi max output but with more boost down lower coming in earlier. The only two concerns I have with the concept is IAT temps being higher under a load on the big end due to having to spin the unit harder only to max out at 10 psi (gen 1 coyotes apparently don't like more than about 10 psi due to the rotating assembly not being all forged like the Gen 2+ and Boss 302 SB's). However the boost comes up quicker down low. Here is a photo. Sorry it is so big imgur.com was being over taxed and would not allow me to edit the size down. My only other concern is the unit causing the setup to go into an over boost situation in the event it fails to open due to malfunction. I am told however that the turbosmart waste gate valve they are using has not experienced this issue though some earlier Chinese made models they used did. I like the KISS principle whenever possible. This is adding to the equation however if reliable and does what the numbers and videos show, it is a huge game changer on the centri setup allowing boost to come in down lower which generates more torque across the power band.

[Walter]

Iat will be low at 10-12psi regardless. Tq booster = Horsepower reducer!!!

[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ I didn't think IAT would be affected much but being centris are Air-Air vice Air to water cooled but wasn't sure since I have only PD experience with FI setups. If the car makes a lower HP number but goes faster down the track I am all for that. What I don't want is another gizmo to add complexity to the process and be just another thing that can break. Here is a snap shot of a before/after dyno sheet for a torque booster.

[Walter]

Try it out!

[S281SC]

So essentially its a wastegate for a supercharger so you can dial in boost across the RPM. I would imagine that could open up some awesome possibilities using a turbo boost controller. I don’t know why it would not work, but as walter mentioned you are bleeding off power. Cool idea though. My brother can attest, and i am sure walter can agree, a centri on a coyote has plenty of torque. At 9-10psi there is power more than any road likes even at 2500-3000 rpm. Maybe set up your Paxton without it and see if you need more torque.


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[redfirepearlgt]

^^^ Interesting thought. You are correct on the theory of operation. It is a fixed relief point however but can be modified for higher boost levels by upping the springs and lowering the pulley size (or OD the crank pulley) to accommodate. I do want to make some passe with it though I will not be running in any SBZ challenge events. Just want to see what it will do. IT can be easily enough added on after the fact, BUT thought since they were already there it could be added and tuned in at the same time. I am going to run a 295/35/20 Nitto GII Drag radial for street driving on it (28" tire). Would like to make a hit or two on those and then see if I can borrow a pair of 17" DRs or slicks to make a few passes on just for fun and maybe make the 12 spot on the staggeringly low ET list for a day or two.

I know that the centri's pull in higher up in the RPM band than the PD's I am used to running. As I have mentioned I have only driven one centri setup and I got on it easy being I did not want to own it if I lost it. It was a nice feel. More of a slow push you back in the seat feel where as a PD is just BAM! from 2500RPM on. The torque booster brings a lot of that back to the table. So I will give it a try. worst case I will pull it off, put the 3.8" pulley back on in place of the 3.33" pulley used with the t-booster and sell it. Was just trying to see if anyone on here had actually used the thing on their setup and what experiences that they had using them.

[redfirepearlgt]

Oh and the car is in the driveway. Arrived this afternoon at 5pm. Overall very happy. Found a ding I am going to address wit ha dent repair person on the drivers side front fender that was thought to be an "imperfection" as it was described, but is obviously a door ding after seeing it first hand. The interior smells clean, the engine bay needs a good gong over (some OKEE dust in there) and a good car wash and buff job and it should look like a shiny penny. Interior is 9-10. The temp tags arrive tomorrow (an oversite before it shipped) and a call to the insurance company and its ready to drive. Then its over to beefcake racing with a cashiers check to get the wish list ordered. Will post some pics after I return from fishing with dad tomorrow.

[NXcoupe]

Congrats. Can't wait to see it.

[PKFIRE]

Nice find Chad!

[redfirepearlgt]

Joe, Mike thanks. Also big thanks to Walter for texting me a ding doctor dude.

After fishing with dad today I got home and got under the hood to start getting the nasty orange Okee dust out of the engine bay. After 2.5 hours of blowing it out with the air compressor, vacuuming with a shop ac and various brushes, I pulled the strut tower support, intake and COp covers and went deeper. Then washed them all down as well. Worked with Moist Cleaning Towlets and brushes in the crevices then blew out more dust and crap. Finally started looking more like a maintained engine bay at 8:30pm. Still work to be done but its a start. Thankfully the interior is in real good clean condition.

Also ordered tires today. Ended getting a 305/35/20 for the rear due to the 295's not being in stock anywhere nationwide...COVID??? You guess your best. Here is a photo of the engine bay starting to look like something again. Sorry for the quality. Took with my phone.

[redfirepearlgt]

Got to wash it this afternoon. Overall I have only found some small chip specks up front other than the door ding which I plan to get resolved soon enough. Picked up clay bar to clean the paint today but its a bit sunny to do that but need to do that before I begin the buff process. Mocked up one of the Forgestars to see how it would look with the GTCS stripe and I think they work together without having to have a custom stripe slightly darker done. I think the anthracite works well on DIB. Can't wait to see them on the car later this week.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking purty!

[draggin50]

Those will look sweet on there!

[NXcoupe]

Man, that's going to look great together

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks guys. Placed the order today for the Paxton Setup, torque booster, suspension mods, gauges and dual gauge pillar mount. Got the car clay barred. Feels smooth now like fresh paint. Did a little buff spot on the drivers door with Black Fire Swirl removing compound (for buffing 2000 grit wet sanding) and was amazed how many of the swirl marks came out. This is the darkest color I have ever buffed. Wish I had a rotary rather than a random orbital now. But this should get rid of 85-90% of the swirl and light scratches. Its no show paint job, but at least it will look cared for factory paint. Will post up some photos once I get a good start on it.

[Maximus]

Thanks guys. Placed the order today for the Paxton Setup, torque booster, suspension mods, gauges and dual gauge pillar mount. Got the car clay barred. Feels smooth now like fresh paint. Did a little buff spot on the drivers door with Black Fire Swirl removing compound (for buffing 2000 grit wet sanding) and was amazed how many of the swirl marks came out. This is the darkest color I have ever buffed. Wish I had a rotary rather than a random orbital now. But this should get rid of 85-90% of the swirl and light scratches. Its no show paint job, but at least it will look cared for factory paint. Will post up some photos once I get a good start on it.

What is this Black Fire you speak of?

[Maximus]

I found it and just placed a Big order on AutoGeek.

[redfirepearlgt]

^^use the Lake Country orange pad with the compound and the white pad with the polish. if using meguires pads use maroon pad with compound and black pad with polish. the stuff works very nicely craig. if you have oxidation step up to the yellow pad. that will cover you for 90% of light scratch and swirl and water spot needs.

[Maximus]

^^use the Lake Country orange pad with the compound and the white pad with the polish. if using meguires pads use maroon pad with compound and black pad with polish. the stuff works very nicely craig. if you have oxidation step up to the yellow pad. that will cover you for 90% of light scratch and swirl and water spot needs.

I got a 20+ year old clear coat with A LOT of swirls, so Im hoping for a miracle!